L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Ciliegiolo: coming-out W ith a long though incon- spicuous pre- sence in Tu- s c a n y , Ciliegiolo is quietly becoming one of Italy's most promising wine grape varieties. Transitioning from a rather low-key profile as a desi- rable blending partner, Ciliegiolo is gaining prominence for its po- tential in making unique varietal wines. The coming-out of Ciliegiolo is quite traceable in the Italian wine literature. One well-respec- ted wine text published circa 1980 and focusing exclusively on Italian wines, doesn't even list Ciliegiolo in its index. Other important vo- lumes published in the early 2000s note Ciliegiolo to be a marginal partner to Sangiovese-based wi- nes, contributing softness, a bit of color, and roundness to the blend. More recently published academic wine texts of distinction (circa 2013) mention that, although still hard to find, varietal Ciliegiolo wi- nes are making their way to market. With more producers willing to experiment with Ciliegiolo as a solo act, it feels like a great mo- ment for this native Italian wine grape. Ciliegiolo, meaning "small cherry" in Italian, seems an enti- rely apropos naming, as the variety is known for its remarkable scent of, you guessed it, cherries. Culti- vated primarily in Tuscany, Cilie- giolo does notably well in the Tu- scan Maremma and the hills around Pisa. Ciliegiolo can also be found around Lucca, areas of Tu- scany's central inland, and in other Italian wine growing regions as well, with Puglia, Umbria, and Li- guria coming to mind. Mistaken identity is not all that uncommon in the world of Italian grape vines. And Ciliegiolo is no exception. Without embarking on a discussion that is out of scope for an 800 word article, suffice it to say that DNA profiling has hel- ped skim away some of the "mi- staken" from Ciliegiolo's identity. In short, Ciliegiolo is not synony- mous with Aglianicone as was re- ported by a research team in the early 2000s (the result of vine mi- slabeling). Neither is Ciliegiolo the same as Sangiovese, as some have thought (although the confusion is understandable inasmuch as the two vines share a similar look, have certain similar profile cha- racteristics and were often planted in near proximity to each other): before long, the same researcher would discover a parent-offspring relationship between Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese (Jancis Robinson, Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, 2012). Of course, as is typical in Italian wine circles, when one discusses such topics long enough, some contra- rian will be happy to offer a coun- ter-opinion. In its listing for Ci- liegiolo, the free online encyclopedia known as Wikipedia sums it up rather nicely, noting that, "… the exact nature of the genetic relationship (but not the presence of a close relationship) between Ciliegiolo and Sangio- vese remains disputed." A good place to leave it. Ciliegiolo is known for its fine red coloration and refined, fruity scents and flavors of small berries, especially cherries. Generally speaking, its wines are somewhat low in acidity, perhaps one reason why Ciliegiolo brings good com- pliment to Sangiovese, known for wines with vibrant acidity. Perhaps not so surprisingly, considering its parent-offspring relationship with Sangiovese, some of what we tend to like about Ciliegiolo is akin to what we appreciate about Sangio- vese. Ciliegiolo's trump card, howe- ver, is its purity of aroma and fla- vor, the cornerstone upon which the variety's considerable potential rests. A string of particularly good Tuscan vintages giving voice to that purity hasn't exactly hurt the case for Ciliegiolo either, at a time when interest in purity is beco- ming more important and resonant in the wine market. Looking ahead, a positive outlook for Ci- liegiolo includes managing the risk represented by its tendency toward lower-acid wines, i.e., Ciliegiolo's potential success in making varie- tal wine depends, at least in part, on balancing all contributing fac- tors to ensure that acidity is at le- vels high enough to keep the wine fresh and vibrant. It does seem in- tuitive that varietal Ciliegiolo wi- nes be geared to earlier drinking. I am looking forward to conti- nued promotion of Ciliegiolo in the market. And although availa- bility seems to be steadily impro- ving, I am too looking forward to seeing more varietal Ciliegiolo wi- nes become more readily obtaina- ble in the US. With that in mind, where I don't normally reference wines which are not currently available to US consumers, I will make note of one among recom- mended producers, below. You can experience Ciliegiolo in the wines of 50+ DOCs/IGPs for which it's authorized as a majority component. But, to really get a sense of what Cileigiolo is all about, I encourage you to look for varietal bottlings. Recommen- ded producers include Bisson, Fibbiano, Mocali, Sassontondo, Sator (recently tasted, currently seeking importer). Tasting Note Sator Ciliegiolo IGT Toscana Impressive scents and flavors of cherry-strawberry fruit, the wi- nes presides on the palate with a graceful, sophisticated mouthfeel. Finishes satisfyingly dry with a delicious tartness in the fade. Aged for 6-8 months, half in ce- ment, half in oak. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2018 Ciliegiolo looks a lot like Sangiovese, but it's not quite the same. Photo: Elisa Bosco elisabosco.com Ciliegiolo is known for its fine red coloration and refined fruity scents. Photo Elisa Bosco @elisabosco.com

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