L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano A brief reflection on wine, price and politics T here is no one, single I t a l i a n - A m e r i c a n story. But, most Ita- lian-Americans I know understand the frugality of the immigrant expe- rience. Many older friends and re- latives still have direct memory – and a fond nostalgia, I might add – of how immigrant families ma- naged to get by on so little, of the necessity of having to "do it your- self," and of pride in work well- done. Thriftiness and the hard work of my family sent me to university, where a derogatory remark about brick layers provided a different kind of educational experience. The wisecrack sought to point out the discrepancy between my working class background and the rather pompous company I found myself in at the time. Considering what the comment was intended to achieve, that it instead caused me a proud, identity-aware mo- ment, is ironic. I mention the inci- dent only inasmuch as the expe- rience arose in me a developing set of personal politics –informed, in part, I suppose, by a good dose of Italian-American frugality - that still today influences my relation- ship with wine. I have, on many occasions, wondered at what point it is that the price of wine begins to alie- nate, exclude, discriminate, perhaps even cheat. When does the monetary cost of wine begin to be profane in the context of one's own worldview? As my relationship with wine deepens, the topic of price raises, for me, some of the most important questions about what's in the glass, its origins, and indeed, about myself. The price of wine is … Impor- tant. What I am willing to pay for a bottle of wine is coming more and more under my own scrutiny, re- quiring purposeful, personal re- flection. And I am not talking about whether or not I can afford the bottle price. At its particular price point, is a wine a valued communicator of tradition or terroir? Does it repre- sent value? Is it an overpriced imposter? There does seem to be a certain price point beyond which I will not purchase a wine, no matter how highly regarded it may be. Not because I can't afford it (which, likely, I can't), but because I am uncomfortable about pricing that is so exclusive it feels inhe- rently contrary to the convivial spi- rit of wine itself. In an economically unequal so- ciety, am I comfortable that a wi- ne's price represents fairness with regard to accessibility, rather than greed? In practice, this also means ha- ving an opinion regarding price points within specific appellations. Look, appellation-governing or- ganizations can create as many new cru, premier cru, and grand selection designations as they wish. I must ask myself, though, whether such inventions bring real improvements in the wines or con- sumer understanding. Or do they simply function as well-disguised marketing tools aimed at establi- shing higher price points? Producers and appellation-go- verning organizations – indeed the entire beverage industry supply chain – might benefit from a con- sideration of price as a requirement to stay competitively relevant in the social conscience: many in the international customer base are of- ten joined at dinner by media broadcasts reporting of circum- stances less fortunate than to be seated at the table, with food and drink for all. There are, of course, commer- cial realities. Producers, importers, distributors, retailers need to be fairly compensated for their inve- stment, time, etc. Prices establi- shed for wines of heroic viticulture must necessarily reflect the ex- treme labor involved in producing wine from insanely difficult sites. The forces of supply and demand will exert influence and must be taken into account. Clearly, the price one is willing to pay for a bottle of wine will vary from individual to individual. It may evolve with changing eco- nomic times and world events. For well-educated, socially-aware wine drinkers, price and con- science may be intertwined in a way that influences the pleasure and enjoyment one derives from wine. The price of wine may be resonantly connected, if not in me- mory then in virtue, to lean times experienced by some newcomer- families to the US. To be clear, quality in wine is still the benchmark, not price alone. But they can become out of synch. Very good and even ex- cellent quality wines are available at fair, principled prices. Why not enjoy them and patronize their producers? Getting comfortable with what we pay for wine will likely be every wine lover's personal re- conciliation. For me, it's a work in progress and I'm closer to get- ting it sorted. In any case, I will be happy to know that we are thinking about it. Tasting Note Le Casematte Peloro Rosso, Terre Siciliane Rosso 70% Nerello Mascalese 30% Nocera, from 15-30 year old vi- nes. Expressive and energetic, scents/flavors of cherries, small berries, floral notes, Mediterra- nean herb, almond and subtle spice, finishes with silky tannins. Fantastic. ~$20.00. Imported by Empson USA. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, AUGUST 9, 2018 Getting comfortable with what we pay for wine will likely be every wine lover's reconciliation When does the price of wine begin to alienate, exclude, discriminate, even cheat?

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