L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 40 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2018 I t was Jupiter's thunder, cast against an oak tree, to create truffles! This is what Juvenal wrote in the 1st century AD. Truffle's preciousness was already known to the Ancient who, we saw, thought it had divine origins and held aphrodisiac qua- lities. In his Naturalis Historia Pliny the Elder wrote that "the combined action of water, heat and thunders gives origin to this refi- ned type of mushroom." Galen (129-199 AD) said that "truffles are very nutritious and may pre- pare to voluptuousness." In 1564, physician Alfonso Ceccarelli authored a book about truffles, where he collected the opinions of Greek and Latin natu- ralists and various historical anec- dotes. From this work, it emerges that truffles have always been a highly appreciated food, especially on the table of noblemen and high prelates. According to some, their aroma was a sort of quintessence, able to create an ecstatic effect on human beings. Studies conducted on Medieval and Renaissance sources found out that specific areas known for their truffles had been identified as early as the 13th century. They included the Monferrato, whose truffles were destined to the court of the Gonzaga in Mantova and that of the Visconti-Sforza in Milan. Of interest, is also the origin of the word tartufo, truffle. The term as we know it today began circu- lating in Europe in the 17th century and, according to Giordano Berti, historian and creator of the Archi- vio Storico del Tartufo (the Histo- rical Archive of the Truffle), it may have appeared in the Middle Ages. In those times, it seems, there was a likeness between our "mush- room" and tufo (tufa). Dialectal and linguistic expressions, then, were to bring us the word we are familiar with today. Rare and precious In order to identify truffle spe- cies, one must keep in mind some details, both organoleptic and morphological, such as the dimen- sion of the truffle's internal mass, called gleba, and of the cells con- taining its spores, which are known as ascocarps. From a nutritional point of view, truffles are compo- sed mainly of water (80%) and mi- nerals, potassium being the most present. There are 60 mushroom species in the world classified as tuber, but only 9 of them are edible. The bet- ter known are the white truffle, or magnatum pico, the black truffle or truffle of Norcia, the summer truffle, known in Italy also as scor- zone, the bianchetto truffle, the winter truffle and the garlic truf- fle. In any case, truffles remain fairly rare, their growth is uneven and strictly tied to environmental and meteorological factors, which means there may be better vintages than others. When truffles are scarce, prices - especially those of white truffles - can reach exor- bitant numbers (up to 4.500 euro per kg, or 5.200 USD for just over 2 lbs). Moreover, truffles are very difficult to transport and preserve, other reasons for which they have such high prices. Truffle varieties The renowned and unmistaka- ble white truffle (tuber magnatum pico), is typical of Piedmont, but can be also found in Umbria, Tu- scany, Molise and Abruzzo. It li- ves in symbiosis with oaks, lin- dens, poplars and willows. To grow, it needs soft, damp soil for most of the year. Its harvest usually takes place between Sep- tember and December. Norcia truffles (also found in Molise, Abruzzo and Tuscany), that is, fine, very aromatic black Truffles remain very rare, and their vintage depends on a series of meteorological and environmental factors . © Valentyn75 | Dreamstime.com VARINIA CAPPELLETTI truffles (tuber melanosporum vitt), grows in symbiosis with oaks, common oaks and hazelnut trees, on hills where both grass and other vegetation are scarce. It is harvested between December and March. Similar, but only in its looks, is the winter truffle (tuber brumale vitt) which, in spite of sharing its habitat with Norcia truffles, is less intense from an or- ganoleptic point of view and has a stronger nutmeg scent. Even if not particularly known nor sold, garlic truffle (tuber ma- crosporum vitt) has been gaining popularity. Its surface is smooth, but presents small growths. It grows in symbiosis with lindens, oaks, poplars and hazelnut trees. Summer truffles (tuber aesti- vum vitt) are typical of the Po delta area and in Veneto. They are very similar to Norcia truffles, from which they differ in the yellowish color of the gleba. They grow both in clayey and sandy soil and in deciduous trees woods. They are usually harvested between May and December. In Emilia Romagna and Tu- scany, we find the bianchetto truf- fle (tuber borchii vitt) which, even though it can be mistaken for the Piedmontese white truffle, chan- ges in scent once it matures, ac- quiring a distinctive garlicky aroma. It grows in coniferous and deciduous trees woods and in cal- careous soil. It's harvested between January and March. An Italian product Italy is the largest producer and exporter of truffles in the world. Even though truffles are common very much everywhere in the country, some areas are particu- larly lucky. Harvesting takes place all year round, with the only ex- ception of the month of April and it takes place with the help of spe- cially trained dogs. Up to the years after the Se- cond World War, piglets were also used but, because of their gluttony, there was always the risk of loosing immediately what had been found! Both Italy and France have been experimenting with truffle cultivation; results have been ex- cellent for some varieties, but poor for the finest type, the tuber ma- gnatum. In Italy, harvesting is re- gulated by the Legge 16 del 1985 n. 752, which controls both truf- fles' cultivation and commerce. In order not to damage the delicate and fragile ecosystem where they grow, truffles can be commercia- lized and harvested only when fully mature and without the use of tools such as hoes and plows, which could kill the tuber. Among the many truffle based products available in stores - of which I advise to always check carefully the ingredients, lest buying something not natural - you can find tasty sauces and fla- vored oils. Other, less known pro- ducts are truffle grappa, truffle amaro and Abruzzo's pickled pe- schette. White truffles are the most renowned of all. © Lukeluke68 | Dreamstime.com The quintessence of truffle on our tables: rare, valuable and delicious

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