L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Trains, graffiti, bottle labels andthe elegant wines of Podere Albiano R iding the train from Connecticut into New York City, if at- tentive, one can de- tect the shift from su- burban to urban environment in a smooth and gradual transition re- vealed by nature and architecture. But nothing quite so evidently an- nounces that changeover as do graffiti along the way. Says the free internet encyclo- pedia Wikipedia of graffiti: from the Italian word graffiato (scrat- ched). "Graffiti (plural of graffito: "a graffito," but "these graffiti") are writing or drawings that have been scribbled, scratched, or pain- ted, typically illicitly, on a wall or other surface, often within public view. Graffiti range from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings, and they have existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to Ancient Egypt, Ancient Greece, and the Roman Empire," adding that graffiti are often reflective of life- style, language, even literacy. Incidentally, at least one graf- fito is known to comment on wine quality: "From Pompeii, written on a tavern wall about the owner of the establishment and his que- stionable wine: Landlord, may your lies ma- lign Bring destruction on your head! You yourself drink unmixed wine, Water [do you] sell [to] your guests instead." [source: Wikipe- dia] Speeding past Connecticut oak trees, the view outside my train window slowly revises to accom- modate Manhattan concrete, alte- red in part by more frequent graf- fiti declaring their various messages along the way. I can't help but to imagine the spray- painted images – in wine terms – as society's bottle labels. But, why am I talking to you about graffiti? Because the small digression – thank you for your patience - brings us to Podere Albiano, a producer of extraordinary wines bottled with extraordinary labels. Podere Albiano have chosen to label bottles with images of arti- stic creations by Enrico Paolucci. Paolucci, a local artist born in Pienza, is well-known for his work with papier-mâché. Em- powered by the visual impact of Paolucci's imaginative works, Al- biano bottle labels transcend marketing. Yes, they invite the wine lover to taste. But, more im- portantly – and recalling the powerful influence of graffiti – they inspire one to a deeper con- templation of and connection to corresponding culture and envi- ronment. Paolucci's artistic ex- pressions connect Albiano wines to the sensual beauty of the Tuscan landscape, Val'Dorcia wildlife, even to local characters seeming to be engaged in conversation. We're on a roll. Now, for the wines: The wines of Podere Albiano are no less attention grabbing than the images adorning their bottle labels. Under the Toscana IGT and Orcia DOC denominations, Po- dere Albiano produces five incre- dibly elegant, stylish red wines made from the likes of Sangio- vese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, a yearly produc- tion of about 20,000 bottles. Albiano's location at 400 me- ters above sea level, and the estate's favorable position relative to Val d'Orcia, Val di Chiana, and Mount Amiata, contributes to the beneficial microclimate and ad- vantageous influence of well-va- ried diurnal temperatures, mild rainfalls, and drying winds. I'll choose only three of the five Albiano wines to tell you about here: Trìbolo, an important cru-level wine for Albiano, is simply glo- rious. Made from 100% Sangio- vese, Trìbolo is massively expres- sive, embodying everything that I love about Tuscan Sangiovese. Produced under the Orcia Sangio- vese Riserva DOC, Trìbolo is one of the most important expressions of Orcia DOC I've tasted to date. Albiano, a Rosso di Toscana IGT carrying the estate name, to- tally "wowed" me. A blend of Ca- bernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pe- tit Verdot, the wine delivers great structure and powerful tannins with the softness of a velvet glove. In Citto, another Rosso di To- scana IGT, Albiano brings to- gether its native Sangiovese (50%) in a blend with the estate's inter- national varieties, for a fruity wine that is all about casual elegance. Trìbolo is a shining star for Al- biano and Orcia DOC, and for that matter, Tuscany, too, while Al- biano and Citto set equally impor- tant benchmarks within the To- scana IGT category for their seamless blend and superb har- mony. There is a special accord exi- sting between Podere Albiano wi- nes and the artistic expressions of Enrico Paolucci adorning their bottle labels. Image and subject bound in graffiti-like significance, marking territory, expressing the underlying message. A single, simple thought from Podere Al- biano website: "Wine and this land have be- longed to each other ever since." But all this seems perfectly ob- vious when sitting on a train spee- ding through Connecticut, past oak trees, into a concrete land- scape scribbled, scratched, and painted with declarations of beauty, politics, hate, and love. Podere Albiano is easily rea- ched from Montepulciano, Mon- talcino, and Pienza. You can learn more about Po- dere Albiano and its wines at www.poderealbiano.it or email the proprietors at info@podereal- biano.it. Tasting Note Podere Albiano Trìbolo, Or- cia Sangiovese Riserva DOC Massively expressive with glo- rious cherry core, notes of medi- cinal herb, forest floor. Soft on the palate, the wine finishes with dusty, refined tannins. Fantastic. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2018 There is a special accord existing between Podere Albiano wines and the artistic expressions of Enrico Paolucci adorning their bottle labels Podere Albiano's wines mirror the beauty of the Val D'Orcia, where they are produced Podere Albiano produces extraordinary wines, bottled with extraordi- nary labels

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