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www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2018 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE CELIA ABERNETHY M ilan is one of Italy's most met- ropolitan and c o n t e m p o r a r y cities. Attracting travelers and business people from all over the world, it has become one of Europe's most popular destinations. Among the new mirrored-façade skyscrapers and des igner boutiques , old Milan hides many secrets and mysteries. Dating back to the early Mid- dle A ges , M ilan has gone through struggles between noble families and political regimes, war, foreign occupation, and even the plague. It has a rich, yet dark history. Here are some of the mysteries lurking behind the tall, wooden doors and in the narrow cobblestoned alleyways of la città Ambrosiana. The Biscione Sforza Castle The emblem of the Visconti, the ruling family of Milan in the 11th century, depicts a serpen- tine creature with a dog's head eating a boy. The family ruled until the 15th century but the emblem and symbol remained as the coat of arms of the Sforza Castle and is still found today on municipal flags and seals. If you look closely, you'll also find it on the Alfa Romeo logo. Legend says that Uberto Vis- conti took control of Milan by saving the city from a ravenous dragon that terrified the people by devouring women and chil- dren. The ancient legend of Taran- tasio, a frightening dragon living in Lake Gerundo is what folklore talked about in other parts of Lombardy. Perhaps Tarantasio had arrived in Milan via the canals where it suffered its fate by Visconti's sword. The Devil's Column Piazza Sant'Ambrogio A second century marble col- umn stands alone on the left side of the Basilica di Sant'Ambro- gio. It is not only preserved for its antiquity, but also for the two deep holes made by Satan him- self. One day, while Ambrose was walking in contemplation on the church grounds, Satan joined him. The demon tirelessly tor- mented Ambrose until the bish- op finally gave into temptation giving the demon a violent kick, hurling him into the column. The beast's horns stuck into the mar- ble leaving him immobile until the next day when the devil dis- appeared - returning to Inferno through the holes. The Milanese still believe today that the holes are portals leading to the under- w orld and if you get clos e enough, you can smell the sulfu- ric waters of the Stige, the river to Hades. Every year, on the night before Easter Sunday, you may even get a glimpse of Satan driving a carriage of damned souls. Monument to Witches Piazza Vetra Hundreds of people walk past the tall sculpture in the park bes ide the Bas ilica of S an Lorenzo every day. Il Monu- mento alle Streghe marks the place where executions of witch- es and heretics took place in Milan. The Tribunal of the Inqui- s ition w as at nearby S an- t'Eus torgio. The condemned were marched from the tribunal to the yard w here they w ere burned alive. The first women accused of witchcraft were Pieri- na de Bugatis and S ibilla Zanni in 1390; they had been found guilty of worshiping pagan goddesses. For over two hundred years other executions were car- ried out until the last one in 1641. Witch executions became a lucrative income for the city by draw ing morbid, curious crowds. S an Bern ard in o alle Ossa Church Via Verziere San Bernardino alle Ossa is a s mall church know n for its ossuary chapel decorated with thousands of human skulls and bones. In 1210, when an adjacent cemetery became overcrowded, a room was built to hold bones. In 1712 the small church was attached to the Basilica di Santo Stefano, and dedicated to Saint Bernardino of Siena. In a dark back corner, there is a chapel where the walls are covered from floor to ceiling in eerily crafted Baroque style motifs and saintly adornments made entirely of human bones and skulls. On the anniversary day of her death, a young girl's ghos t appears. Ghost or no ghost, it's a jaw-dropping sight! More Ghosts in Milan The ghost of the La Dama Velata, the Veiled Lady searches for her lover. Her origin and name are a mystery. She appears in the Sempione Park, behind the Sforza Castle, always seemly desperate to find her companion. Those who have encountered her, all tell the same story: she is dressed in black with a black veil covering her face. As she comes closer, you cannot help but feel a strong allure and take her hand as she leads you to an old house where she lifts her veil revealing an empty skull. Ludovico il Moro haunts the corridors of the Sforza Castle helplessly running away from the French clutching his treasure. However, he is not alone: Bianca Scappardone Visconti, who was decapitated, walks the passage- ways as well as Bona di Savoia, who cries for her loved ones, and Beatrice d'Es te w ho died screaming in childbirth. The spirit of Lucretia Borgia wanders the corridors of the Ambrosiana Library looking for the lock of hair she hid in her love letters to Pietro Brembo. The original letters are actually held at the archive and her hair is encased and displayed in a glass frame. In the Pinacoteca di Brera Museum, a mysterious presence trips the alarms. Every once in a w hile, the ghost of the infamous opera singer Maria Callas, occasionally appears on s tage at La S cala Opera House. She was a Greek- American, but found her home in Milan at La Scala and apparent- ly, did not want to leave. There are many more secrets and mys teries lurking in the palaces and squares of Milan. N ext time you are w alking around taking in the sights, don't forget to look over your shoul- der! A serpentine picture with a dog head: the symbol of the Visconti, but also of the city they once ruled, Milan © Cri- stianzamfir | Dreamstime.com Witches were burned in Milan, starting in 1390, with the cases of Pierina de Bugatis and Sibilla Zanni The devil's column, in Piazza Sant'Ambrogio: once upon a time, people believed you could see the marks left by the Devil's horns on it © Cristian- zamfir | Dreamstime.com Legends and ghost stories of Milan