L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 27, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano Il Nebbiolo dell'Alto Piemonte A lto Piemonte Neb- biolo continues to at- tract the attention of wine lovers seeking expressive, quality wines made by small producers who have not surrendered their product to the homogenization of taste, and which still offer value for money.Let's have an edited look at Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo, including producer recommenda- tions. Known locally in Alto Pie- monte as Spanna, Nebbiolo is a demanding and finicky vine, no- toriously difficult to cultivate. For the trouble, Nebbiolo gives high quality, elegant, and complex wi- nes that take well to long aging. Nebbiolo earned its reputation as the variety responsible for the grand wines Barolo and Barbare- sco. One of the world's truly noble wine grapes, Nebbiolo doesn't care to grow just anywhere. That is to say, suitable growing envi- ronments for Nebbiolo are few. In Italy, Nebbiolo is grown primarily in Piemonte, though can also be found in Valle d'Aosta, Lom- bardy, and Sardinia. Nebbiolo is recognized as a great transmitter of terroir – the growing environment in which a vine is cultivated – and finds a particular and high-quality expres- sion in Alto Piemonte, one that is markedly different from what one experiences in Barolo or Barba- resco.2 DOCGs (Gattinara, Ghemme) and 8 DOCs (Boca, Bramaterra, Colline Novaresi, Co- ste della Sessia, Fara, Lessona, Sizzano, Valli Ossolane) produce Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo. While geologically homogenous in some places, the zones represent a di- versified soil geology: moraine, sand, porphyry, elements of ma- rine sediment, volcanic stone, mi- neral richness, with compaction ranging from hard to crumbly. The area's high acid soils encourage wines toward complex, mineral structures. The Monte Rosa mountain massif - 4,634 meters at its highest point, Europe's second highest peak- and the Alps, heavily in- fluence microclimate, sheltering against cold, northern winds. Du- ring hot months, glacial winds sweep into valleys, lowering ni- ghttime temperatures, widening the diurnal temperature gap, and bring ventilating freshness, crea- ting an ideal environment for de- velopment of aromatic intensity. Nebbiolo's struggle for ripe- ness is, in Piemonte, typical to a point. But, in northern Alto Pie- monte, it can promote (compara- tively) higher levels of acidity. That fact correlates to an intere- sting distinction between in Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco: Alto Piemonte DOCG/DOC regula- tions admit other allowable grape varieties for blending - primarily Vespolina, Uva Rara, and Croa- tina - whereas production rules for Barolo and Barbaresco require 100% Nebbiolo. Thus, Alto Pie- monte producers have the option to soften acidity. Complimentary blending grapes also contribute to silkiness of texture.Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo "Cheat Sheet:" Gattinara DOCG Most well-known of Alto Pie- monte denominations. 90% Neb- biolo minimum. Vespolina and/or Uva Rara, not more than 4% and 10%, respectively. Aging 35 months minimum, 24 spent in wood. Elegant, scented of violets, delicate secondary notes, hint of spice. Age worthy. Recommend producer(s): Antoniolo, Nervi, Traviglini, Vallana. Ghemme DOCG Shows the delicate floral aro- matics of Gattinara with a bit more body density. Due, perhaps, to a lesser minimum amount of Neb- biolo (85%). Vespolina and/or Uva Rara, 15% maximum. Mini- mum aging 34 months, 18 in wood. Persistent, intense, refined. Age worthy. Recommend produ- cer(s): Cantalupo, Mazzoni. Boca DOC Nebbiolo 70%-90% minimum, Vespolina and/or Uva Rara, 10%- 30% maximum. Minimum 34 months aging, 18 in wood. Floral scents, spice, pleasantly bitter af- tertaste. Age worthy. Recommend producer(s): Le Piane, Vallana, Valloni. Bramaterra DOC Nebbiolo 50%-80% minimum, Croatina 30% maximum, Vespo- lina and/or Uva Rara, 20% maxi- mum. Aging 22 months mini- mum, 18 in wood. Earthy, floral, spice, firm tannins, well-structu- red. Age worthy. Recommend producer(s): Colombera & Ga- rella, La Prevostura. Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo DOC Nebbiolo 85% minimum, other allowable grape varieties, 15% maximum. No minimum aging. Bright fruit, floral scents, subtle tannins. Recommend producer(s): Cantalupo, Monsecco, Nervi, Val- lana. Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo DOC Nebbiolo 85% minimum, other allowable red grapes 15% maxi- mum. No minimum aging. Lighter body, fresh, fruity, floral. Recom- mend producer(s): Colombera & Garella, La Prevostura, Nervi, Travaglini. Fara DOC Nebbiolo 50%-70% minimum, Vespolina and/or Uva Rara, 30%- 50% maximum. Other allowable grape varieties, 10% maximum. Minimum 22 months aging, 12 in wood. Approachable, fruity, flo- ral, lively acidity. Recommend producer(s): Boniperti, Il Chiosso. Lessona DOC Nebbiolo 85% minimum, Ve- spolina and/or Uva Rara, 15% maximum. Minimum 22 months aging, 12 in wood. Earthy, ethe- real, faded florals, smooth, plea- santly tannic. Recommend produ- cer(s): Colombera & Garella, La Prevostura. Sizzano DOC Nebbiolo 50%-70% minimum, Vespolina and/or Uva Rara, 30%- 50% maximum. Other allowable red grapes, 10% maximum. Mi- nimum aging 22 months, 16 in wood. Easy drinking, harmo- nious, hints of violets. Recom- mend producer(s): Dessilani, Monsecco. Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo DOC 85% minimum Nebbiolo, other allowable grape varieties up to 15% maximum. Aging (Supe- riore), minimum 13 months, 6 in wood. Structured, floral, savory tannins. Recommend producer(s): Garrone. Tasting Note Colombera & Garella "Piz- zaguerra" (Lessona) Excellent expression of Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo from practi- cing organic producer. Fermented in concrete tank from native yea- sts. Aged in second and third pas- sage tonneaux. Floral, bright fruit, earthy, intense. Pronounced mi- nerality, fine and supple tannins. One of the world's truly noble wine grapes, Nebbiolo doesn't grow just anywhere Nebbiolo is recognized as a great transmitter of terroir JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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