L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano Falanghina: a taste of Resilienza A t a recent luncheon in New York City, Ilaria Petitto of Donna- chiara winery began to introduce the com- pany's Beneventano Falanghina IGT which carries the fantasy name Resilienza, or Resiliency, in English. On hearing the wine's name, I immediately flashed to so- mething said by American writer Paul Auster: "I've always thought of writing or any art as a kind of illness", he said. "And you catch it pretty early in life. And you're condemned to do it. Your life will be unfulfilled if you don't do it, even though it's very difficult." (Paul Auster Inter- view: What Could Have Been, YouTube.com). Considering the host of adver- sities facing wine producers - frost, hail, mildew, pests, drought, to name just a few – Auster could very well have been talking about wine production: the work is re- lentlessly difficult, requiring levels of tenacity, vitality, and adaptabi- lity, such that only the truly pas- sionate would want to do it. None of those requisite quali- ties, however, are in short supply for Italian wine producer Ilaria Pe- titto. A member of the noble Pe- titto family and CEO of Donna- chiara, Ilaria has taken on a special dedication to pursuing the deve- lopment of Campania's local grape varieties with vigor and grit. At the luncheon, Ilaria's intro- duction of Resilienza continued on with a personal anecdote telling how she'd grown up hearing sto- ries about the resiliency of the Campanian people, resonating with meaning. It turns out that a bit of resi- liency could be just the right pre- scription in promoting Falanghina, an Italian grape variety from which Resilienza is produced. In spite of historical longevity, a cool story about its name, and (unpro- ven) scholarly suggestions that it was used to make a renowned an- cient Roman wine falernum, Fa- langhina has needed to win its place in modern consumer hearts. An ancient variety, one old enough to have derived its name from the Latin falangae, Falan- ghina makes reference to the stakes used for supporting grape vines in the vineyard. Another hy- pothesis is that the name refers to the stock of spears carried by vine toting Roman armies and someti- mes used as vine supports. The fact that science has recen- tly determined that what we refer to broadly as Falanghina is, in fact, not one, but two genetically di- stinct grape varieties, Falanghina Flegrea and Falanghina Beneven- tana, hasn't helped a clearer un- derstanding of Falanghina by either trade and consumers. (To provide a thumbnail differentia- tion for readers here, I'll offer that Falanghina Flegrea is, to my taste, a delicious choice for more casual eating and drinking, while Falan- ghina Beneventano will push beyond what most drinkers would consider simple table wine toward more serious structure and com- plexity.) According to Ilaria Pe- titto, promotion and development of Falanaghina will include a good deal of clarifying education for consumers and trade alike. Adding to misinterpretation is that many have considered Falan- ghina to have neither the depth nor complexity of Fiano di Avel- lino or Greco di Tufo. This is where Donnachiara's wine Resi- lienza exercises a bit of its own, well … resilienza. Made from 100% Falanghina, the wine gives convincing testimony of Falan- ghina's greater potential, a poten- tial that many other bottlings fail to indicate. Donnachiara's Resi- lienza demonstrates that Falan- ghina can offer a more serious and rewarding wine drinking expe- rience to consumers seeking so- mething more than a simple sum- mer sipper. Not to let Falanghina steal the entire show, during the luncheon with Ilaria Petitto we also tasted other Donnachiara wines: Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, another Falanghina, Taurasi and Taurasi Riserva. All super well- made, varietally-correct wines with good body, freshness, clean finish, and superb equilibrium. You may be interested to know that behind the scenes at Donna- chiara the winemaking baton is held by none other than Riccardo Coltarella. For those unaware, Coltarella is one of the most re- spected and well-known oenolo- gists in Italy. If one were to bet the farm (no pun intended) on na- tive Campanian varieties, restful nights would be more frequent knowing Riccardo Coltarella was in the house. In the interest of consumer wallets, I would be remiss not to point out here that Donnachiara's direct relationship with the wine superstore known as Total Wine makes it possible to source its wi- nes at prices reflecting (compara- tively) serious value points. And that brings us finally back to Paul Auster and the beginning quotation. Though we are not "condemned" (as is Auster to wri- ting) to drinking Falanghina … we may certainly imagine life to perhaps be a bit more "unfulfil- led" if we don't. Tasting Note Donnachiara Beneventano Fa- langhina IGT "Resilienza" Resilienza offers an intense melange of both fruity and savory aromas and flavors. Dry to taste and soft on the palate, the wine drinks with an exciting sense of structure and lively acidity. A per- sistent finish introduces ethereal notes that participate in bringing the wine beyond table. Falanghina wine is dry to taste and soft on the palate and has a melange of both fruity and savory aromas Ilaria Petitto, Italian wine producer and CEO of Donnachiara JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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