L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 34 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES VARINIA CAPPELLETTI Continued to page 32 . ..Here it is, in all its "thick- ness," the bistecca alla Fiorentina! "and you know what — they say in Florence — outside of Tuscany, they don't even know how to cut it. It's thin, without fillet… look at those boneless steaks! You know what they are? chops! But for us, steaks… three fingers thick, they have to be! They don't even know how to cook it. Here's how to make a steak: sear, turn and … and off you go!" Florentines, we all know it, are proud people and love their city and its food to bits. Traditions, in- cluding culinary ones, are rooted: they'll never give up on their two fingers high steak. La fiorentina is not a seasonal dish: Winter or Summer, you'll al- ways find it in restaurants and at local butcher stores. Its history is long and its popularity dates back to the times of the Medicis. On the 10th of August, the day dedicated to San Lorenzo, it was tradition in Florence to roast large quantities of meat to be distributed to people around town. Apparently, in one such occasions, there was also a group of British gentlemen who called the cut of meat they were given beef steak: and that's where the Italian bistecca comes from. There is another, more recent (19th century), version of the story, which always sees a bunch of Englishmen and the locution beef steak at the origin of the Ital- ian word bistecca. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is ei- ther young beef (between 12 and 18 months) or scottona (a female, between 12 and 36 months) sirloin steak, always of the Chianina va- riety. The steak should always be thick, include its bone, be either grilled or barbecued and, of course, it should always be served rare. The meat used for bistecca alla Fiorentina is very much the one we know in English as T -bone steak. Chianina livestock is typical of Tuscany, especially of the Val di Chiana, between the provinces of Siena and Arezzo, from which it inherits its name. Still today, Chi- anina farming follows ancient, tra- ditional methods. This is a very special, very unique cow breed, which is typical of the area and has ancient origins indeed. Both the Etruscans and the Romans would use large white cattle during their parades, which are not dis- similar to today's Chianina bulls and cows. Just to give you an idea about their size, a modern "Donetto" chianino bull can reach 2000 kg (4500 lbs) before turning one year of age. After the whole valley was re- claimed during the last century, Chianina breeding truly developed until the breed became one of the most prestigious in the country. In- deed, Chianina is protected by the Consorzio Produttori Carne Bovina Pregiata' s 5R quality mark, along with Marchigiana and Romagnola breeds. Meat quality is fundamental and, for this reason, its sales are regulated by very strict parameters. Chianina meat can be sold only if its origin and identification are con- firmed. This is obtained through a specific branding used to identify all animals at the slaughter house. The meat, both fresh and frozen, is then sealed in ad hoc packaging, after having been checked one more time by quality and safety control officials. The final, packed product is then stamped once more, so that its origin is well rec- ognizable and certified. Essential — and carefully reg- ulated by relevant control bodies — is the selection and quantity of the Chianina cows' food, which must be natural, consisting entirely of local fresh or dried grass. Chi- anina's feed cannot be genetically modified and cannot contain nei- ther estrogen nor antibiotics. Almost 20 years ago, when the "mad cow" scare swept through Europe, bistecca alla Fiorentina The bistecca alla Fiorentina must have its bone attached! (Ⓒ: Dreamstime) Bistecca alla Fiorentina? It has to be at least two fingers thick!

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