L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano Sforza Castle as a tutor of Ludovico Maria Sforza, the duke of Milan, also known as Ludovico Il Moro. "Valagussa described the Milanese tradition of serving this enriched bread on December 24 along with three other large special loaves used only once a year," explains Porzio, who is also the author of the book Il Panettone. Storia, Leggende e Segreti di un Protagonista del Natale. "At that time, panettone was not sweetened," he says. There are at least three other legends about its invention. The most famous has it that one cold Christmas Eve back in the 1400s, a young cook at the Sforza court named Toni was preparing bread for the great Christmas banquet held by the Duke of Milan. But despite the joyous celebrations, Toni was melancholic and a bit scattered. In an involuntary ges- ture, he dropped eggs, sugar raisins and candied fruit into the dough. That sweet rich bread was served to the guests anyway and they really loved it: that's how Toni's bread – il pan de Toni in Italian – got started. "The second legend states that an aristocrat named Ughetto degli Atellani fell so madly in love with a baker's daughter that decided to abandon his status and work at his father-in-law's store located on Corso Magenta, where he created the recipe soon to become a local success," says Porzio. According to the third legend, panettone got its start by a nun named Ughetta in her monastery. Sister Ughetta made her sisters very happy and turned herself into a sort of business- woman. The Milanese word "Ughet" translates as sultana raisins, which are one of the main ingredients of panettone together the colorful candied fruit. What is the symbolism behind those ingredients? We will never know exactly. "Panettone is the symbol of Milanese cultural identity, yet it is by its nature the antithesis of a zero-km food if we look at its ingredients," Porzio admits. "Candied fruit is a typical product of southern Italy, the sul- tana raisins were a gift from Constantinople, cornflour origi- nated in the Americas and vanilla comes from Madagascar," remarks Porzio. We only know that Milanese bakers and confectioners have always made panettone for the tables of Lombards at Christmas. "In the early '20s, Motta and Alemagna were the very first two panettone industrialists to spread the custom of eating the fruity Christmas cake throughout Italy," explains Porzio. "Later in the '80s, the roles of artisan pastry chef Achille Zoia from Cologno Monzese and Rolando Morondin were also important, teaching today's pastry chefs the art of the panettone through train- ing courses across the country." Porzio is campaigning to add panettone to the UNESCO's list of Intangible Heritage, exactly like pizza. Readers are welcome to sign a petition via his website www.repanettone.it "We want to protect the know- how, the correct art of panettone- making, which is a central ele- ment of Milanese and Italian identity," he says. Porzio also hopes that it will be recognized by the EU as a TSG (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed) product whose authenticity depends on the traditional recipe and produc- tion method. "But I also believe that the panettone produced in Italy has something extra," remarks Porzio. The very Milanese baker Longoni believes in the free cir- culation of ideas and knowledge instead: the so-called "Made in Italy" is important but its defini- tion is quite complex. "I only know that everybody is pursuing a protectionist discourse towards products, but what about if we begin to protect the know-how instead?" asks Longoni. He and his team have found a way to share knowledge. "We protect knowledge and promote the exchange of know-how, set- ting in motion a virtuous circle: we give and naturally we receive. Instead of spending energy to protect and limit, let us spend it to guarantee transparency." Mauro Iannantuoni defines Longoni as "a great profession- al." Iannantuoni and Longoni began experimenting on their first panettone together in 2008. "I look forward to starting a new job in his workshop next year. I am excited about it," says Iannantuoni, who is very happy about the result. "Our artisanal panettone produced in California is excellent. But it certainly expresses a new concept. I only hope that it does not attract criti- cism from purists," he says. "Anyway, the candidacy of the art of panettone-making on the UNESCO's list is most wel- come." Davide Longoni, a true Milanese baker, is in Los Angeles to make Californian panettone (Copyright: Brambilla Serrani) The "panettone made in LA" comes in three varieties: Milanese, chocolate and lemon, coffee (Copyright: Brambilla Serrani)) Continued from page 14 LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE

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