L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 6, 2020 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano I talians who arrive in t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s and end up starting r e s t a u r a n t s a r e a d i m e a d o z e n . B u t every once in a while, the journey taken by one Italian family is so memorable that it becomes the stuff of leg- ends. S u c h i s t h e c a s e w i t h C o m m e l l i n i E s t a t e i n northwest Spokane, Wash., w h i c h o p e n e d a s Commellini's Restaurant in 1941 on a 140-acre former c h i c k e n f a r m . F r o m t h e beginning, it was a popular gathering spot, not only for Spokane's elite and powerful but also for visiting celebri- t i e s . B a s e b a l l g r e a t J o e DiMaggio and movie star Marilyn Monroe ate there in the mid-20 th century; former p r e s i d e n t D w i g h t Eisenhower signed the guest- book. T h e s t o r y b e g i n s w i t h Albert Commellini, who emigrated from the town of Staffoli, near Pisa, in 1904 at the age of 13. He found work in the railyards of Chicago, first as a water boy and then as a recruiter for the rail com- pany. His work eventually b r o u g h t h i m w e s t t o Washington State and he set- tled in Spokane. It wasn't long before his shrewdness, hard work and e n t r e p r e n e u r i a l s p i r i t allowed him to get several businesses off the ground, including an Italian import company. In 1923, having firmly established himself in Spokane, Commellini sent for his younger sister Elide, who was known as Leda. When Leda arrived, she worked at a lunch counter while Commellini started buying up real estate, includ- i n g h o t e l p r o p e r t i e s a n d apartment buildings. For six y e a r s , h e o w n e d t h e Ambassador Club, a lively dance hall that included a movie theater and 15 private d i n i n g r o o m s . I t w a s rumored that Al Capone's b r o t h e r F r a n k i e c a m e t o Spokane in 1936 to check out the Ambassador, thinking it might make a good invest- ment. The deal never hap- pened. Prohibition provided the b a c k d r o p f o r s o m e o f Commellini's most colorful activities. At one point, he was sworn in as deputy sher- iff charged with confiscating i l l e g a l a l c o h o l . E v e r t h e enterprising businessman, Commellini turned this into a lucrative opportunity. As the contraband was taken to the station house, Commellini hired men to carry it back out and resell it. It wasn't long before his venture was dis- covered. Luckily, he kept no r e c o r d s a n d t h e c h a r g e s could not be proven. C o m m e l l i n i h a d h i s h u m a n i t a r i a n s i d e , t o o . During the Depression, he opened his own soup kitchen out of one of his hotels in downtown Spokane. He con- tinued to operate it for six m o n t h s u n t i l S p o k a n e County stepped in and took over operations. Commellini later ran for county commis- sioner in 1933 but lost. In 1938, Albert and Leda purchased a chicken farm a n d b u i l t a h o u s e o n t h e p r o p e r t y t w o y e a r s l a t e r . Leda moved in, but she got lonely out in the country and soon started inviting friends and neighbors over to enjoy a m e a l . I n 1 9 4 1 , Commellini's Restaurant officially opened its doors. Many of the early diners were regulars from Leda's lunch counter days, desperate for more of her chicken caccia- tore. The siblings converted a small barn to a dance floor, a d d e d s l o t m a c h i n e s a n d installed a juke box. Leda was so proud of her chicken cacciatore that she would only use the highest quality poultry. When chick- ens became scarce during World War II, she began rais- ing her own and installed a slaughterhouse where her employees processed 1,000 chickens a day for her restau- rant to use and to sell the rest in town. I t w a s a g o o d l i f e a n d Albert and Leda encouraged other members of the family to join them in America. In 1950, their niece Gina came for a visit, intending to stay just six months. She began working in the restaurant as a d i s h w a s h e r a n d t o o k English lessons in her free time. Before long, she had set down roots. She went back to Italy in 1954 and encouraged h e r l o n g - t i m e b o y f r i e n d M a u r o S e g h e t t i t o r e t u r n with her. He did and they married in 1956 in Spokane. Unfortunately Leda suf- fered a devastating stroke in 1977. She had been such an integral part of the restaurant that it was hard to see how it could survive without her. The family made the decision to give it up and leased the property to outsiders – an arrangement that lasted for 30 years. I n 2 0 0 9 , t h e S e g h e t t i f a m i l y r e - o p e n e d a s Commellini Estate, led by Gina's son Robert, daughter- in-law Lauri and their daugh- ter Desiree. But there was a twist: the completely remod- eled 2,800-square-foot build- ing was now primarily an event venue. Restaurant din- ing was open to the public for special reservation-only din- ners. The family continued to honor their Italian roots. "We've returned to family recipes — or more accurately, hand-scribbled notes from our grandparents and great- grandparents," said co-owner D e s i r e e S e g h e t t i - Sulpizio. "Childhood in the kitchen with grandparents w h o w i t n e s s e d t h e Depression and World War II taught me that every ingredi- ent matters and, with a little creativity, nothing needs to go to waste." T h e S e g h e t t i ' s w e r e o n track to have a very busy 2 0 2 0 u n t i l t h e p a n d e m i c arrived. Once again, the fam- ily had to pivot — and quick- ly. They began to offer curb- side pickup and meal kits to- g o , a n d b e e f e d u p t h e i r gourmet product line. In mid-July, a new out- door dining concept called Tavola Calda opened three days a week. Diners order at a counter and the food is delivered to several dining spots around the grounds – outside under a tent made up of 1,000 twinkling lights, on the patio, or on a blanket set up on the lawn. Leda's signa- ture chicken cacciatore con- tinues to be one of the most popular items on the menu. RITA CIPALLA Spokane's Commellini Estate brings a new dining twist to its storied past In 2009, the Seghetti family established Commellini Estate as a wedding and event venue; Gina Seghetti (far left) was a niece of Albert and Leda (Commellini Estate) SEATTLE ITALIAN COMMUNITY

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