L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano S o m e t r a d i t i o n s are not to be bro- ken…or are they? The big red vend- ing machine that d e b u t e d r e c e n t l y n e a r Rome's Piazza Bologna h a s c e r t a i n l y p u s h e d t h e envelope, at least in the eyes o f m a n y R o m a n c i t i z e n s . Food is sacred to Italians, as are the methods and means of preparing and partaking. S o , i s a p i z z a v e n d i n g machine a sacrilege to be scorned, or the latest and greatest thing to experience when in Rome? Food vending machines are nothing new. In fact, I've downed some pretty impres- sive coffee drinks from the espresso machines planted in train stations and airports in Italy. But a cup of coffee and a prepackaged brioche are one thing; dare it be done with a hot, fresh pizza? Massimo Buccolo certain- ly has faith that the time is now. Owner of Rome's street s i d e M r . G o P i z z a , Buccolo's entrepreneurial hunch led to his good faith decision to set up the auto- mated pizza machine in the heart of Rome. For around five or six euro, a passerby can choose from a selection of options, watch the dough being rolled out and the top- pings added. Then boom – a hot, fresh pizza, boxed with utensils, slides out the vend- ing door. The machine is capable of holding ingredi- ents for up to 100 pizzas and is open 24/7. Buccolo, in an interview with the AP, passionately explains, "…some immedi- ately made the comparison with the pizzeria, so they attacked us as crazy people who wanted to go against the market of pizza, or the art of pizza, instead others under- stood what our desire was, the message that we wanted to give, most of all the ser- v i c e . " T h e a v a i l a b i l i t y o f g r a b b i n g a h o t p i z z a a n y time, night or day, is the key, according to Buccolo, to his hoped-for success of Mr. Go Pizza throughout Rome. Pizza vending machines h a v e b e e n a p a r t o f I t a l y s i n c e a t l e a s t a s e a r l y a s 2 0 0 9 . " L e t ' s P i z z a " machines, which function using the same robotic con- cepts as Buccolo's machine, grace the interiors of fast- paced locales such as air- ports and train stations in locations including Milan, S o r r e n t o , a n d T r e n t i n o , along with many throughout Great Britain. In fact, the automated pizzeria market has expanded to include the US with Let's Pizza and Pizza Forno machines pop- p i n g u p i n m a n y l o c a l e s along the east coast. With marketing based on a fran- chising concept, the trend is p r e d i c t e d t o c o n t i n u e t o spread. But no other entrepre- neurs have dared place one outside of an enclosed, tar- geted location…until Mr. Go P i z z a . B u c c o l o ' s c h o s e n location, a small recessed booth on Rome's busy Via Catania, is only steps away from a pizza al taglio (pizza b y t h e s l i c e ) s h o p . W h i l e many have raised a distained eyebrow Buccolo's way and see his automated machine as an existential threat, the shop owner, Sebastiano Di Troia, is taking it with a grain o f s a l t . D i T r o i a s e e s h i s training in a Rome-based pizza school as proof enough that he can offer the real-deal to hungry customers. "…you go try one from the machine, and then come back here and try a real one," quips Di Troia ( t h e G u a r d i a n , 5 / 2 0 2 1 ) . Buccolo is confident, though, t h a t t h e a b i l i t y t o g r a b a freshly baked pizza no matter the time of day (or night) will be a large part of the appeal, along with the three-minute turnaround from ordering to being able to take the first bite. R e a c t i o n s a r e m i x e d . While some consider these vending machines as pass- able when in a hurry, others view them as an abomination to tradition. With a culture so passionate about the qual- ity and freshness of food, as well as traditional methods of preparation by hand, the acceptance of these as a nor- m a l p a r t o f s t r e e t l i f e i n Rome is up for debate. For many, it's also the totality of the experience that is miss- ing. Find a table, order, enjoy watching the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) twirl and spin the d o u g h b e f o r e a r t i s t i c a l l y arranging the toppings; with a flourish, it's slid into the brick oven inferno to bake to c r u n c h y p e r f e c t i o n . Definitely a hard act for a metal machine to follow. I queried a handful of my Italian friends – what did they think of these automat- ed pizza machines – would they eat a pizza from one? "Neache morto!" – Not even dead! – R. Lamothe, business owner "Vada retro santana, mai al mondo! È davvero repel- l e n t e . " - G e t b a c k s a t a n , never in the world! It is truly repulsive. - M. Pantelioni, physician "E' contro la nostra reli- gione!" – It is against our religion! – D. Napoli, musi- cian "No no! Mai mangiata!" – N o n o ! N e v e r e a t e n ! – S . Traficante, businesswoman "Mai mangiata e spero di non doverlo mai fare!" – N e v e r e a t e n a n d I h o p e I never have to! – R. Capitani, tourism industry "In Italia la pizza la sappi- amo fare – non serve nes- suna macchina." – In Italy we know how to make pizza – no machine is needed. – N. D e R o s s i , b u s i n e s s m a n / musician "Mi sacrifico comunque v o l e n t i e r i p e r p r o v a r l a , magari con l'ananas e pollo allo spiedo…(occhiolino)" – I will sacrifice myself to try it, hopefully with pineapple and BBQ chicken…(wink) - L. Brusci, tourism industry "La pizza è un rito… che va oltre il risultato… sta nel nostro DNA…fatto di gesti, odori, sapori e socialità." – Pizza is a ritual…it is in our D N A … m a d e o f g e s t u r e s , smells, tastes, and sociabili- t y . " - A . M e g g a s i n i , author/businesswoman W h i l e a f e w p o s i t i v e responses were gathered on the streets of Rome from curious passersby or those who'd tried an automated pizza, many mirrored the unabashed negative passion of this sampling. Let's hope Mr. Buccolo is not putting all his pizza dough in one oven, so to speak! Angelo Martino, owner of Ristorante Al 53 in the heart of Naples, also shared h i s t h o u g h t s w i t h m e . Needless to say, the entire idea was an affront to his soul. "It is a crime against humanity," Martino asserted. "Food is an expression of love; it must be guided by love from the heart and from the hands." S t r a n g e r v e n d i n g machines have found their way to success: hot dogs, lob- sters, meat, gold, and even Smart Cars can be bought through vending machines in locations around the world. T i m e w i l l t e l l i f M r . G o Pizza will find its niche…or not…on the busy streets of Rome. A pizza vending machine: can the trend catch up in Italy, too? (Photo: Luca Lorenzelli/Dreamstime) Pizza from a vending machine – a great idea or recipe for disaster? PAULA REYNOLDS LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE

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