L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2021 L'Italo-Americano W hat do a giraffe, a unicorn, a s m a l l owl, and a tower all have in common? Despite no apparent links, each of these entities proudly represent one of Siena's 17 c o n t r a d e , o r n e i g h b o r - hoods. These are more than just fun mascots, however; they represent the lifeblood of the city, her citizens con- n e c t i o n s t o t h e i r h i s t o r y , land, and heritage. It's no surprise, then, that a horse race pitting various contrade against each other comes with great fanfare and devo- tion of monumental propor- tions. It's called the Palio di Siena, an ancient race that dates possibly to Etruscan times. Since the 1600s, the contest has played out in Siena's main piazza, Piazza del Campo, as athletic steeds run snout to snout in a blow- out competition. A race like none other, the July and August Palio are the highlight of the year in this picturesque Tuscan town. A spectacle of passion, fervor, a n d i n t r i g u e , t h e e v e n t ' s heart-stopping competition lasts less than 2 minutes -- the culmination of a year's focus, worry, prayer, chi- canery, and dreams. The Palio is much more than just a h i g h l y a n t i c i p a t e d g e t - together with a few wagers and an excuse for late-night p a r t i e s , h o w e v e r . T o t h e Sienese, the Palio is life. "You are born…you witness the Palio…then you die," as an old saying goes. It was 1729 when Siena's neighborhoods were subdi- vided into 17 contrade, or boroughs, by decree of law. T h e c o n c e p t w a s n ' t n e w ; many contrade had existed before. But it was time for better organization to assist in raising troops for battle and other necessary tasks. It was at some point during this era that each adopted the name of an animal or object, along with their own "team" colors, as distinct representa- tion. The short version of the story suggests these names were adapted from the ani- mal-shaped floats once a part of the fanfare of Siena's regu- lar bull fights. No one knows f o r s u r e , b u t i t c e r t a i n l y seems plausible. Today's Palio is every bit as intense, revered, and seri- ous as the ancestral races preceding it. Contrade mem- bers embrace their heritage: it's much more than a birth- right. The complex relation- s h i p t o c o m m u n i t y t h a t membership brings includes individual government, a contrada church, organized events, social services, rival- ries, and allegiance that over- rules any other identity. So yes, the Palio is a big deal. When the day of the con- test arrives, Il Campo, Siena's c e n t r a l p i a z z a , i s t r a n s - f o r m e d . I t s i c o n i c s h e l l - shaped layout is camouflaged under precise amounts of clay and sand creating an irregular, perilous racetrack along the perimeter. Open- air restaurant tables encir- cling the piazza, typically filled with locals and tourists d i s a p p e a r . N o t a s o u l i s f o u n d l o u n g i n g a n d d a y - dreaming on the time-worn stone floor of Il Campo. It has morphed into a stadium: 33,000 reserved seats over- flow for the lucky folks, while standing room only accom- modates 28,000 more. The atmosphere is charged and feverish; fans draped in their contrade colors sing loudly, bellowing competing songs and chants, each praying for this year's victory. Race day is not the main e v e n t , h o w e v e r . T o e v e r y Sienese, life is metered by awaiting the next Palio and hoping victory will be theirs. Clandestine meetings occur throughout the months as contrade leaders plan and s t r a t e g i z e b e h i n d c l o s e d d o o r s . I t ' s a w e l l - k n o w n secret that bribes and cajol- ing are an accepted part of the raucous traditions, more an expectation than some- thing frowned upon. F o u r d a y s p r i o r t o t h e actual race, it's time for offi- cialities to commence. The "tratta" – the ceremonious presentation of 30 mixed breed horses -- begins. Of these, ten are chosen by con- trade captains to participate. It's not until literal moments before the race that each of the participating 10 contrade are assigned a horse by lot- t e r y . B r i b e r y a n d p a y o f f s flourish from the time the horses are chosen to when they are paired to a contrada. Six trials are held over the following days, the horses and fantini (jockeys) scruti- nized, cheered, and jeered. R e c r u i t s f r o m o u t s i d e o f Tuscany, jockeys, too, are plied with bribes and payoffs. Centuries old traditions of dinners, masses, and festivi- t i e s p l a y o u t w i t h i n e a c h neighborhood, all leading to the pinnacle day of the Palio r a c e . B o t h t h e J u l y 2 n d Palio di Provenzano in h o n o r o f t h e M a d o n n a o f Provenzano, and the July 16 th Palio dell'Assunta in honor of the Assumption of Mary, are the apex of intense pride, deep rivalry, and long- standing ritual. There's as much joy in a main rival los- ing as in being the winning contrada! The morning of the race, the paired horses and riders are blessed within the p a r t i c i p a t i n g c o n t r a d e ' s churches, then guarded like precious jewels to avoid any nefarious attempts of sabo- tage. Processions and pageantry p r e c e d e t h e r a c e . A n n o u n c i n g t h e o f f i c i a l beginning are the mounted Carabinieri (a branch of t h e I t a l i a n a r m y , p a r t o f national law enforcement) dressed regally in full uni- form, swords reflecting after- noon sunlight over the mas- sive crowd as they parade around the track. Flag bear- ers and musicians follow, paving the way for the pro- cessional of contrade officials and members magnificently a t t i r e d i n h i s t o r i c a l c o s - tumes. As drums roll and horns blast, a flag bearer from each contrada performs t h e m e s m e r i z i n g " g i o c o d e l l e b a n d i e r e " – t h e skilled game of flag throwing and catching. The prelude heightens the crowd's fren- zied expectation…and finally, the horses and riders appear. Jockeys dressed in silken pants and shirts displaying the colors of the contrada they are riding for enter in singular fashion to thunder- ous applause and mayhem. E v e n t u a l l y , a l l m e e t i n a cramped starting area, exu- berantly pushing, shoving, a n d e v e n w h i p p i n g t h e i r opponents with a nerbo, the traditional riding crop of the P a l i o f a s h i o n e d f r o m t h e flesh of an ox phallus. A final drawing reveals the name of t h e s t a r t i n g h o r s e … a n d (eventually) they're off in a peal of thundering hooves! Within 75 seconds, the precarious course is complet- ed…one horse has claimed victory -- with or without the rider as it's the horse that wins. It's difficult for a non- Sienese to fully comprehend the utter delirious joy of vic- tory…or of seeing your main rival lose. It's been described as the crowning point of life, an event that makes one's e x i s t e n c e c o m p l e t e , a n intense and powerful connec- tion that only a Sienese can feel. The victorious contrada c l a i m s t h e s i l k e n b a n n e r known as the Pallium or drappellone, an object of intense honor, and days-long c e l e b r a t i o n s c o m m e n c e under the glow of the Torre del Mangia. The year 2020 did not see a Palio. Unfortunately, this year's Palio is still on hold until perhaps September. In the over 400 years since the Palio has been held in Piazza del Campo, only during WWI a n d W W I I h a v e t h e P a l i i been cancelled…until now. "Run! And make sure that there is only one who wins!" ~ St. Catherine of Siena Racing at the palio: only people from Siena truly understand how important the competition is for the city (Photo: M. Rohana/Dreamstime) PAULA REYNOLDS NEWS & FEATURES TOP STORIES PEOPLE EVENTS The race that's more than a race – Siena's revered Palio

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