L'Italo-Americano

T he Vogue Ita- l i a A p r i l 2 0 2 0 c o v e r s t i l l s t i c k s i n m y m i n d . I t didn't show a beautifully p h o t o g r a p h e d m o d e l o r models. It was a white can- vas featuring nothing, yet a front cover suspended in time and space that could tell more than any concate- nations of images, headli- n e s , i d e a s , a n d p h r a s e s . T h a t t o t a l b l a n k m e a n t pain, strength, and hope. White was the color of the health workers put- ting their lives on the line. White was the shade of peo- ple's suffering. The achro- m a t i c c o l o r o f l i g h t n e s s symbolized the first inno- c e n t w h o s u c c u m b e d t o C o v i d - 1 9 a n d t h a t l o n g - chain yet to come. White as silence and a pause for reflection. The hueless shade also spoke of encouragement, offering a sense of calm, helping alle- viate our emotional upsets because Italy was into the abyss. The world was fal- ling. Through that odd printed issue, the high-fashion bible reminded us that we were a l l i n t h i s t o g e t h e r . A l l markets and sectors were rattled, included the luxury industry. Oozing sophistica- t i o n , i t s t a r t e d t o p a y a heavy economic price. I n 2 0 2 0 t h e f a s h i o n industry suffered its worst year on record, as confir- m e d b y T h e S t a t e o f Fashion 2021 report relea- sed last December by The B u s i n e s s o f F a s h i o n a n d M c K i n s e y & C o m p a n y . Sales declined, and supply c h a i n s w e r e d i s r u p t e d . According to the McKinsey G l o b a l F a s h i o n I n d e x , fashion companies faced a staggering 90 percent decli- ne in profit following a 4 percent rise in 2019. "The impact of the pandemic on t h e f a s h i o n a n d l u x u r y industry has been extreme," s a y s P a o l o P a s i n i , P r o f e s s o r o f I T / D i g i t a l M a n a g e m e n t a t S D A Bocconi, the university's business school of Milan. H o w e v e r , t h e s e c t o r responded to the economic paralysis with overlapping creative approaches to style and art. Its vocabulary tran- sformed, and a few novel- ties were introduced. In times of chronic pain and discomfort, the world of fashion became a playful arena to also heal resent- ments and hurts. "We don't s t o p p l a y i n g b e c a u s e w e g r o w o l d , w e g r o w o l d because we stop playing," s a i d I r i s h p l a y w r i g h t George Bernard Shaw. Enter gaiming M a n y I t a l i a n f a s h i o n houses embraced gamifi- cation, a marketing techni- que taking inspiration from the methods of classic video gaming. They created a new branded virtual world by p a r t n e r i n g w i t h g a m i n g platforms. It was an alter- native, innovative way to cultivate engagement with their audiences that goes beyond brand loyalty. The m o d a l i t y w a s a p o w e r f u l attractor, especially for the younger generations sear- ching for exclusive content a n d b r a n d e x p e r i e n c e . Gamers represent a fast- g r o w i n g m a r k e t . A n d a game designer is now part of the staff of many fashion houses. O v e r t h e p a s t y e a r , Gucci has been experimen- ting with multiple global games. It recently launched a surreal garden experience conceived as a virtual coun- terpart to the Gucci Garden Archetypes, a new esoteric exhibition in Florence cele- brating the Italian house. The virtual event is avai- lable for Roblox users. The moment visitors enter the Gucci Garden experien- ce, they shed their avatars and assume the likeness of a neutral, asexual manne- quin. It is like being back to the very first day of one's life. It is an opportunity to start from scratch with a t a b u l a r a s a . T h e t a i l o r ' s dummies wander through the garden's sections, and each one reacts differently. Slowly they begin to build t h e i r o w n i d e n t i t y . E a c h experience is a complexity of memory, personal drives, group identity, decision- making. At the end of the journey, each mannequin is nothing but a person: a uni- que human being. No doubt, the pandemic w a s a w a k e - u p c a l l f r o m nature to move to a more sustainable future. During the lockdown, big players ignited the debate by rai- s i n g a w a r e n e s s o f t h e importance of resetting to new business models and modes of production. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting -- it is responsible for 10 percent o f g l o b a l c a r b o n d i o x i d e emissions every year. Giorgio Armani rang the changes: it was neces- sary to slow down the pro- duction, cut the prolifera- tion of events and the pre- collections. The idea of a slow fashion has a certain charm and was a thought b o r n e o u t o f l a s t y e a r ' s e m o t i o n a l r e a c t i o n . B u t how realistic is it? " M o r e t h a n s l o w , w e need less and more rele- v a n t , " s a y s P r o f e s s o r Stefania Saviolo, founder o f M A F E D M a s t e r i n Fashion, Experience and Design Management at SDA Bocconi, Milan. " T h e p a n d e m i c w a s a wake-up call in particular for strengthening the social dimension of sustainable development," says Saviolo. "Luxury had already started to work on the environmen- tal impact through volun- tary initiatives. The situa- tion revealed what's behind t h e s c e n e s i n t e r m s o f workers' conditions within the supply chain not only in The union between fashion and technology (including gaming) could be the future of luxury. Photo courtesy of Prada THURSDAY, JULY 22, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Phygital fashion: is it the future of luxury? MARIELLA RADAELLI Continued to page 32 LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE

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