L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURS DAY,   JUNE  27,   2013 Umbria and Jazz. Who Knew? JESSIcA ANDREWS When I was in Umbria I stopped off at a small familyrun winery just outside of Spello. Enrico, the nephew of the owner (the only one who spoke English well enough to give the tour to an American) was on Spring holiday from the university in Perugia, a fact that he mentioned several times during my hour with him. It just so happened that I was the only visitor on that mid-March day, and when Enrico found out it was my first time in Italy - and that I was alone - he began telling me about the wonders of his "bell'Umbria" in an accent so heavy it was difficult to decipher all of his words. Like a broken spigot in the "on" position, the words flowed on and on, describing Umbria's military positioning, gastronomic significance and artistic treasures. Most of it was a meaningless buzz for me; I zoned out just listening to how melodious his Italian rhythms could make even Germanic and stark English. But two words broke through: "Umbria Jazz" Wait - Jazz? In Italy? It seemed like the oddest combination! I've always believed in the idea that "Music is the universal language" but to be confronted with it here was a bit startling. My face must have changed because Enrico stopped, perhaps thinking he saw a look of recognition (instead of shock) on my face. "Yes, Umbria Jazz. Is very famous. You know it?" He didn't give me a chance to answer, though. "Is in Perugia, where I am at school. Perugia is really best city in all of Umbria. When I..." Buzz... But even though *I* had no idea what the Umbria Jazz Festival was, it turns out that it actually *is* indeed quite famous. And it's celebrating its PAGE  21 40th anniversary this year! Who knew? In 1973 Carlo Pagnotta and Adriano Mazzoletti organized the first Umbria Jazz Festival as a series of free concerts at various venues in Terni (who loudly claims to be the birthplace of the Umbria Jazz Festival), Gubbio, Todi, Città della Pieve and Perugia. Pagnotta, a jazz fan for years who had never had the dedication to learn to play himself, had moved back to Perugia in 1955 after going to the university in Bologna and became a frequent patron of Mazzoletti's jazz club, the "Hot Club". With Mozzoletti's pre-established pend the festival in light of socio-political conditions, not picking it back up until 1983 and permanently settling it in Perugia. Four years later, though, they expanded the festival, inviting pop and rock artists who they believed were "able to satisfy the tastes of all music lovers" (Umbria Jazz Official Press Release, 2013). Sting was the first special guest in 1987 and since then they've hosted pop music legends like Elton John, Prince, James Taylor, Phil Collins, Van Morrison, Earth Wind & Fire, Eric Clapton, Tony Bennett and Alicia Keys. Now Umbria Jazz consists of relationships in the jazz community, the pair were able to attract some of jazz's biggest names, including BB King, Miles Davis and Dizzy Gillespie. The festival got so big, in fact, with such unexpected numbers each year that they started having security and logistical problems. In 1975 Count Basie wasn't even able to make it to the stage through the crowd of people gathered for his show! After the assassination of political leader Aldo Moro in 1978, organizers decided to sus- a number of concerts in six different venues over a period of ten days (this year: July 5-14, 2013), some free and some ticketed. At the Arena Santa Giuliana, Canadian jazz songstress Diana Krall opens up the festivities and American pop/R&B star John Legend performs a little later in the week. Dee Dee Bridgewater, who performed at the first festival in 1973, is coming back to celebrate the festival's 40th anniversary with an encore performance, and on July 12th Herbie Hancock and Chick Corea take the stage for their 12th and 8th times at Umbria Jazz, respectively. A more "pure" jazz evening can be found each night at Teatro Morlacchi, and an "experimental" jazz project with a new generation of musicians will be performed in conjunction with Young Jazz of Foligno and the "Comune della cittadina umbra" at Palazzo della Penna. If you'd like to sample some of Umbria's famous cuisine while you tap your foot to Stefano Mincone or Renato Sellani with Massimo Moriconi, check out "Bottega del Vino" or "Taverna" for brunch, aperitifs or dinner. Free concerts can be found every night in Piazza IV Novembre and every afternoon through evening in the Carducci Gardens. And of course no one wants to miss the daily street parade at 6:30pm featuring "Funk Off" (yes, that's actually their name. I'm a fan and I haven't even heard of them!). But of course, if you haven't already booked your tickets for this year, chances are that, like me, you're going to miss Umbria Jazz 2013. There is, however, a mysterious tab for a webcam on their website (www.UmbriaJazz.It) that I'm hoping will give a glimpse of the action (and maybe of my winery friend Enrico in the audience somewhere). Umbria Jazz "Winter" is going to be celebrating its 20th anniversary this December 28th - January 1st in Orvieto. I'm going to be right nearby there this December so I'm thinking I might stop by. Though I might feel a little odd ordering a Sloe Gin Fizz in Italy. Jessica is a travel enthusiast and entertainment executive living in Los Angeles. Her independent travels through Italy have inspired her travel blog, OneDayInItaly.com

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