L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE C a l a b r i a i s known for many r e a s o n s : i t s h i s t o r y a n d natural beauty, b u t a l s o i t s f o o d a n d t h e fertility of its soil. Some of t h e f r u i t s t r a d i t i o n a l l y associated with the region, including those we're about t o d i s c o v e r , d e v e l o p e d almost a cult status not only in the kitchen, but also in t h e f a s c i n a t i n g a n d somehow magical world of perfume making. T h a n k s t o a q u i n t e s s e n t i a l l y M e d i t e r r a n e a n c l i m a t e , Calabria is a perfect place to g r o w c i t r u s f r u i t a n d i t doesn't surprise to know the region is one of Italy largest producers, with about 25% of our oranges, lemons and m a n d a r i n s h a i l i n g f r o m t h e r e . B u t i f y o u w a l k t h r o u g h t h e C a l a b r e s e c o u n t r y s i d e i n a w a r m , balmy afternoon, other zesty s c e n t s w i l l t i c k l e y o u r senses, because Calabria is k n o w n a l s o f o r i t s production of -- and love for -- two other citrus varieties, bergamot and cedar. The citrus bergamia, or b e r g a m o t , i s o n e o f t h e r e g i o n ' s s y m b o l s , a s i t p r o d u c e s 9 0 % o f t h e bergamots in the world: it's not surprising that we call it C a l a b r i a ' s g r e e n g o l d i n I t a l y . L i t t l e k n o w n b u t i n c r e d i b l y v e r s a t i l e , b e r g a m o t h a s i m p o r t a n t curative and organoleptic characteristics and it's used especially in cosmesis, as its f r e s h , c l e a n n o t e s h e l p s e t t i n g o t h e r e s s e n c e s , exalting their uniqueness. W e d o n ' t r e a l l y k n o w m u c h a b o u t b e r g a m o t , t h o u g h , a t l e a s t w h e n i t comes to its origins. Some believe it is the result of the s p o n t a n e o u s g e n e t i c m u t a t i o n o f o t h e r c i t r u s species like lemon, lime or bitter orange, while others t h i n k i t w a s i m p o r t e d t o I t a l y f r o m t h e C a n a r y I s l a n d s b y C r i s t o p h e r Columbus, no less. D i f f e r e n t s o u r c e s mention China, Greece and the Spanish city of Berga, while a curious legend says that, once upon a time, a M o o r f r o m S p a i n s o l d a single branch of a bergamot tree for 18 gold coins to the V a l e n t i n o s o f R e g g i o Calabria. Back home, they planted it in their garden, starting up the amazing love story between the region and this fragrant fruit. Nicola Parisi began the i n t e n s i v e f a r m i n g o f bergamot in 1750, along the coast of the Reggio Calabria p r o v i n c e , w h i c h r e m a i n s s t i l l t o d a y t h e g r e a t e s t producer of the fruit. In 2001, Calabrese bergamot obtained the EU DOP label ( p r o t e c t e d o r i g i n denomination). Considering this citrus fruit is commonly used in b o t h f o o d a n d c o s m e t i c s making, you may wonder whether you have ever come a c r o s s i t . W e l l , y o u m o s t certainly did, as bergamot is used to scent Earl Grey Tea, a n d i t s p e e l i s o f t e n a n ingredient in artisanal gelato or cookies. Bergamot candies are also popular and are, in fact, a traditional product of the French city of Nancy. But while used quite often by our cousins on the other side of the Alps, bergamot remains a c u l t i v a t i o n t y p i c a l o f C a l a b r i a o n l y : w h i l e i t i s grown also in other parts of the world, like Brasil, Cote d'Ivoire and Morocco, the quantity and quality of these fruits is far from that of their Calabrese counterpart. Bergamot, however, is perhaps better known for b e i n g o n e o f t h e m o s t ubiquitous ingredients in perfume making, and one of the most ancient, along with r o s e , l a v e n d e r a n d frangipane. Calabrese bergamot is not the only special citrus of the region, as cedar is just as symbolic of the beauty and essence of this area. Just like lemon and oranges, cedar is t y p i c a l o f t h e w h o l e M e d i t e r r a n e a n b a s i n ; i n Calabria, it's mostly grown a l o n g t h e R i v i e r a d e i Cedri, or cedars' riviera. This relatively large citrus fruit has very ancient origins, which can be traced back to t h e B i b l e , w h e r e i t ' s mentioned around 70 times: here, it is often described as the most beautiful fruit, and it has even been associated with the infamous one Adam a n d E v e a t e w i t h o u t permission at the beginning of times. B e c a u s e o f i t s h e a v y p r e s e n c e i n t h e O l d T e s t a m e n t , i t d o e s n ' t surprise that rabbis from around the world travel to Calabria, more precisely to Santa Maria del Cedro, every year between July and August to select and collect t h e b e s t f r u i t s f o r t h e Sukkoth. And if you think picking c e d a r s m a y b e a r e l a x i n g experience, a bit like apple p i c k i n g i n t h e f a l l , t h i n k again. Cedar trees are short and their branches covered with sharp thorns, so you have to kneel down to pick them and are always at risk o f c u t t i n g y o u r s e l f . T h e bounty you obtain is well worth it, though. Cedars are u s e d t o m a k e j a m s a n d delicious chutneys to enjoy w i t h b o t h f i s h a n d m e a t . Larger fruits can be sliced and eaten with olive oil, salt and pepper and, in Calabria, c e d a r l e a v e s a r e o f t e n c o o k e d , t h e n f i l l e d w i t h s u l t a n a s a n d c h o p p e d c a n d i e d p e e l s : a t r u l y delicious treat. Cedars are also cultivated in other areas, in particular Provence, in the South of France, and Greece, but the varieties are different from those typical of Calabria. Citrus fruits in general, but bergamot and cedars especially, are excellences of Calabria (Photo: Moskwa/Dreamstime) Unknown and precious: the citrus fruits of Calabria GIULIA FRANCESCHINI

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