L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE S ilver and slight, a n c h o v i e s b e l o n g t o t h e e n g r a u l i d a e f a m i l y a n d a r e c o m m o n i n t h e s e a s s u r r o u n d i n g I t a l y , w h i c h m e a n s t h e y a r e c o m m o n a l s o o n o u r t a b l e s , regardless of where we are: f r o m N o r t h t o S o u t h , anchovies are perhaps the m o s t u b i q u i t o u s o f a l l ingredients, up there with tomatoes and parmigiano. They are incredibly rich in omega-3 and can be used f o r e v e r y d i s h : y o u c a n m a r i n a t e t h e m i n l e m o n , olive oil and parsley and have them as a starter; you can sauté them with olive oil and garlic, and add an extra kick to your aglio oglio e peperoncino and, of course, y o u c a n h a v e t h e m d e e p fried, as a main dish. C r u c i a l l y , t h o u g h , a n c h o v i e s a r e a l s o f o u n d w h e r e y o u l e a s t e x p e c t t h e m , l i k e i n s o m e t r a d i t i o n a l d i s h e s f r o m Piedmont -- a region that has no sea -- like vitello tonnato or bagnet verde (an aromatic sauce made with parsley, olive oil, garlic and a n c h o v i e s , a n d s e r v e d usually with meats). Undoubtedly, the large availability of this type of fish in our seas explains why it became so popular, but t h e r e i s n o d e n y i n g a n c h o v i e s a r e i n c r e d i b l y good, whichever way you decide to have them. Beside availability and t a s t e , h o w e v e r , t h e r e a r e a l s o o t h e r h i s t o r i c a l a n d pragmatic reasons behind such popularity. In ancient Greece, people used to love anchovies just as much as t h e R o m a n s w e r e t o d o some decades laters. The connection is highlighted by a t r a d i t i o n , t h a t o f t h e M e n a i c a a n c h o v i e s , t y p i c a l o f P i s c i o t t a , n e a r Salerno. For those among you who may not know, the m e n a i c a i s a n e t u s e d t o catch anchovies and it is considered the first step in i n c r e d i b l y w e a l t h y , i n c l u d i n g t h e c o a s t o f Campania and the city of -- y e s , y o u g u e s s e d i t - - Pompeii. A straight line connects o l d g a r u m t o t o d a y ' s colatura di alici from Cetara (Campania), which is something not far from a m y t h . K n o w n a c r o s s t h e world and revered as much as precious, magic gold, it is a Slow Food Presidium and o b t a i n e d a D O P denomination in 2020. It has the color of amber and it i s o b t a i n e d f r o m t h e maturation of anchovies in s a l t , f o l l o w i n g a n c i e n t R o m a n m e t h o d s : i t s "younger" variety is light, yet incredibly tasty, and has b e c o m e a s t a p l e i n t h e kitchen of many a famous c h e f , e s p e c i a l l y t o d r e s s pasta. However, the aged v a r i e t y s h o u l d b e a p p r o a c h e d t h e w a y y o u a p p r o a c h a f i n e a g e d whisky, homemade grappa or moonshine: with caution! Its strong flavor is not for the faint hearted, so much so it is sold only in small, 50 ml bottles. Up North, preservation t e c h n i q u e s a l l o w e d t o transport anchovies inland, following the ancient Vie del S a l e , " s a l t r o a d s , " c o m m e r c i a l r o u t e s t h a t c o n n e c t e d L i g u r i a a n d F r a n c e t o t h e P i a n u r a P a d a n a a n d T u s c a n y . I n a n c i e n t t i m e s , w h e n refrigeration didn't exist, salt was the only method to p r e s e r v e f o o d a n d w a s , t h e r e f o r e , a n i n c r e d i b l y v a l u a b l e s u b s t a n c e t h a t c o u l d b e e x c h a n g e d f o r c e r e a l s , w i n e a n d o t h e r p r o d u c t s t y p i c a l o f t h e I t a l i a n n o r t h e r n r e g i o n s . Salted anchovies became a s t a p l e i n t h e c u l i n a r y t r a d i t i o n o f r e g i o n s l i k e Piedmont and Lombardy, where the sea was just a far a w a y i m a g e i n t h e m i n d , and were often used during t h e w a r t o a d d f l a v o r t o o t h e r w i s e a n o n y m o u s dishes. Classics like bagna cauda t h e p r e s e r v a t i o n o f t h i s s m a l l b u t d e l i c i o u s f i s h . Once on board, fishermen u s e s p e c i a l t r a d i t i o n a l t e c h n i q u e s t o c l e a n a n d p r e s e r v e a n c h o v i e s , including -- still today -- a t y p e o f c o l a t u r a , o r f i s h s a u c e , m a d e f o l l o w i n g a wholly-Greek method. This type of colatura is, in fact, d i f f e r e n t f r o m i t s m o r e f a m o u s c o u s i n , t h a t produced in Cetara, which is made following a Roman method. Indeed, we can't really s p e a k a b o u t a n c h o v i e s w i t h o u t m e n t i o n i n g garum at least once. This fermented anchovy sauce, which many compare to the traditional Thai fish sauce made in the same way, was, so to speak, the "ketchup" of ancient Rome: it was served with everything, you could add it to virtually all dishes a n d R o m a n s w e r e c r a z y a b o u t i t . I n f a c t , i t s p r o d u c t i o n m a d e e n t i r e areas of the Republic first a n d t h e E m p i r e l a t e r (Piedmont, a warm sauce m a d e w i t h o l i v e o i l , anchovies and garlic, and served as a dip with bread and raw vegetables), vitello t o n n a t o ( a l s o f r o m Piedmont, thinly sliced veal served with a sauce made w i t h b o i l e d e g g y o l k , anchovies and olive oil) and ossobuco (Lombardy, a type of braised veal shanks) are all famous dishes that use s a l t e d a n c h o v i e s t o strengthen flavor. But fresh anchovies are just as delicious and they are especially popular in the S o u t h : i n S i c i l y , t h e y a r e used in many pasta dishes and also marinated in lemon a n d o l i v e o i l . I n f a c t , a n c h o v i e s a r e i n c r e d i b l y i m p o r t a n t i n t h e r e g i o n : they were once known as the "paupers' bread" and they are not only considered an e s s e n t i a l i n g r e d i e n t , b u t a l s o c e n t r a l t o t h e t h e Sicilian cultural tradition: h e r e y o u c a n e v e n f i n d a m u s e u m , t h e M u s e o dell'Acciuga in Bagheria, dedicated to them. In Calabria, anchovies are roasted with peppers, while in Campania they become one of the main attractions on the Christmas Eve table: fresh ones are cooked alla p i a t t e l l a o r f r i e d , w h i l e those preserved in salt are an important ingredient in t h e i c o n i c i n s a l a t a d i rinforzo. B a c k u p N o r t h , i n Liguria, they are made into a s o u p n a m e d b a g n u m , w h i c h i s s e r v e d w i t h t h e t y p i c a l g a l l e t t a d e l m a r i n a i o , s m a l l , r o u n d , dried focaccias particularly popular among sailors of times gone, as they could l a s t l o n g o n s h i p s d u e t o their texture. A n d t h e n , h o w c a n w e f o r g e t a b o u t p i z z a w i t h a n c h o v i e s , o r s a l t e d anchovies on fresh, sliced t o m a t o e s o r o n r o a s t e d peppers? And how delicious are they when served on a s l i c e o f h o m e m a d e b r e a d w i t h l a s h i n g s o f b u t t e r ? Let's face it, anchovies can make the simplest of meals a feast for kings. FRANCESCA BEZZONE A delicious plate of baked anchovies. This flavorsome fish has always been part of Italy's diet (Photo: Alexander Mychko/Dreamstime) The humble anchovy: from ancient Rome to modernity, a staple in the Italian kitchen

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