L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 27, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano I f hope springs eternal (oh how we need a lot of that these days), s o , t o o , d o t h e enchanting thermal springs of Bagni San Fil- ippo. These temperate min- eral waters have warmed the bones of many a person for m o r e t h a n t w o t h o u s a n d years, and they continue to run strong and clear today, tempting those in the know with a long, hot soak in the healing waters. Unlike Bagni San Filippo's m o r e f a m o u s c o u s i n , t h e thermal pools of Saturnia, these mineral rich waters are practically hidden; one does- n't just stumble upon them but must seek out the secre- tive path through hazelnut woods leading to the pools. Fortunately, the namesake town of Bagni San Filippo is found on maps, and once there, the rest isn't too hard to navigate. Like most towns or attrac- tions featuring "San/Saint" as part of the name, there's a good story that goes with it. L e g e n d h o l d s t h a t S a n F i l i p p o B e n i z i , a F l o r e n t i n e P r i o r o f t h e S e r v a n t s o f M a r y , w a s s o piously devout he was ear- marked to become pope in t h e u p c o m i n g e l e c t i o n . Deeply distressed by this, poor Filippo took off for the forest surrounding the baths and hid himself away in a cave from 1268 – 1271, final- l y r e a p p e a r i n g w h e n h e thought the coast was clear. In gratitude to the local vil- lagers, he struck a rock three times with his staff, and bam – t h e r m a l w a t e r s g u s h e d forth. Fact or fable, it's easy to believe that San Filippo found calm and refuge in these healing waters, just as so many others do today. The grotto Filippo called home is a sacred place available to visit if one is willing to make the small hike. Located in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia, approximately 30 miles southeast of Siena, this series of pools and mineral formations could be consid- e r e d t h e w a t e r c h i l d o f Monte Amiata, Tuscany's landmark dormant volcano that sits nearby. The Fosso B i a n c o , a g e n t l e s t r e a m originating on the nearby summit, winds its way to the v a l l e y f l o o r b e l o w . H e r e , thanks to the thermal fires miles below the surface that push forth hot springs, the two water sources become one. We top dwellers get the b e n e f i t s o f t h e s e s t e a m y w a r m p o o l s j u s t a s S a n Filippo did. A s m a l l s i g n r e a d i n g "Fosso Bianco" is the only clue that it's time to exit the small road leading to the nearby village of Bagni San Filippo. The turn-off leads to roadside parking for which a s m a l l f e e i s c h a r g e d . However, if you don't mind a l i t t l e m o r e w a l k i n g , f r e e parking can be found not much further away. Either way, there will be a substan- tial walk down the narrow asphalt road to the pathway leading to the thermal pools. A gravely trail appears, inviting you to descend. The smell of sulfur rises to tickle the nostrils as a canopy of trees shade your path. Rather quickly, the sounds of bur- bling water rise like a sirens' song as anticipation rises. Your rewards aren't much further away once upon a wooden foot bridge; the first of a number of impressive towering calcium carbonate formations appear. The ini- tial glimpses are awe-inspir- ing, a teasing precursor to the sights that await. The first few pools, while not especially beautiful, are tempting; it's hard not to immediately settle into one. However, the water is tepid here since the hot springs only begin to join the cool f l o w o f t h e s t r e a m . K e e p walking – deeper and much warmer pools await. While many are enticed into the water sooner than later, the payoff increases the further you navigate the sometimes- challenging path. Soon, the more powerful flow of subterranean waters makes itself known. Eons of mineral buildup show off as glorious pools rimmed in shimmery white, along with artistic cascades of seemingly f l u i d g r e e n s , g o l d s , a n d browns – the result of the cocktail of minerals in these springs. On a well-lit day, the turquoise blue of the pools is astounding. It's not hard to miss the most dazzling visual of Bagni S a n F i l i p p o … L a B a l e n a Bianca, or The White Whale waterfall. Nicknamed this due to its resemblance to the mouth of a whale, this con- centrated outpouring of hot thermal waters is a juxtapo- sition of movement and the appearance of time standing still. The upwelling of vol- canic waters is maximized here, pouring thousands of gallons by the minute into the Fosso Bianco, creating the warmest pools. The high concentration of calcium car- bonate mixed with the pass- ing of untold years has creat- ed the massive yet graceful cascade of stunning snow- white calcification – what we now call the Balena Bianca. While creature comforts may be sparse here – there are no changing rooms, no toilet facilities, no snack bars – the combination of the best of pristine nature is hard to beat. The quiet of the forest punctuated with birdsong surrounds the stream and thermal pools like a warm hug. Reclining in the healing waters while peering through the trees into a Tuscan sky can feel mystical. Grab some mud off the bottom and treat yourself to a free mud bath, its properties are said to cure and heal tired flesh. Take time to breathe deeply as you f i n d y o u r o w n p e r s o n a l r e f u g e h e r e , l e t t i n g g o o f worries real and imagined. San Filippo wasn't the first t o e n j o y t h e p l e a s u r e s o f these thermal baths, despite the legend's explanation. E t r u s c a n s , the cultured ancestors of Tuscany, surely found relaxation here, as did the Romans who followed. Various other mentions of t h e b a t h s a r e r e c o r d e d throughout history, includ- i n g t h e d e v o t i o n o f t h e M e d i c i . L o r e n z o d e Medici, ruler of Florence in the late 1400s, was a fre- quent partaker of the healing waters. It's not hard to imag- ine him soaking in a pool, finding solace amidst the tranquil setting. The pen- chant for these pools contin- u e d o n w i t h C o s i m o d e M e d i c i , G r a n d D u k e o f Tuscany in the 1500s, as he took it upon himself to revi- talize and improve the pools. M a c h i a v e l l i ( 1 5 1 8 ) a n d G r a n d D u k e F e r d i n a n d (1635) were also known to seek the waters of this special place. For those pursuing a less outdoorsy experience, a for- mal spa can be found just down the road in the small village of Bagni San Filippo. Massage, treatments, and a l a r g e t h e r m a l p o o l ( w i t h changing rooms) await. Tuscany is rife with strik- ingly beautiful experiences; however, Bagni San Filippo remains one not to be missed f o r t h o s e s e e k i n g p u r e immersion in natural beau- ty… 24/7 with no charge. Pack a swimsuit and include this dramatically alluring spot on your next visit to the heart of Italy. PAULA REYNOLDS Bagni San Filippo: Tuscany's lesser-known enchanting thermal baths Beauty, nature and relax: welcome to Bagni San Filippo (Photo: Fabio Lamanna/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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