L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano L a C o s t i e r a A m a l f i t a n a . To borrow a few l i n e s f r o m a w o n d e r f u l o l d s o n g – " S a y i t l o u d a n d there's music playing; say it s o f t a n d i t ' s a l m o s t l i k e praying" – is befitting. Just the sound of the words hints a t t h e m a g i c a n d a l l u r e found along Italy's Amalfi Coastline. Encompassing 25 miles of magnificent coast stretching from Sorrento to Salerno, this famous slice offers breathtaking views a l m o s t t o o s t u n n i n g t o e m b r a c e a s r e a l i t y . S o f t emerald mountainsides dra- matically morph to sheer cliffsides that tumble into the Tyrrhenian sea. Precari- o u s l y s t a c k e d j u m b l e s o f pastel buildings compose s m a l l s e a s i d e t o w n s a n d cliff-hugging villages, each looking as if they might top- p l e i n t o t h e s e a a t a n y m o m e n t . T h e r e n o w n e d ( a n d e x t r e m e l y n a r r o w ) A m a l f i c o a s t r o a d w a y c o r k s c r e w s r o u n d a n d through it all, itself an engi- neering feat of seemingly i m p o s s i b l e m e a n s . A d d a splendid array of beaches, l e m o n g r o v e s , v i n e y a r d s , and orchards: the region's reputation for beauty and enchantment is sealed. While many seek this area for lazy days by the ocean or p e r h a p s a r o m a n t i c g e t - a w a y , t h e C o s t i e r a Amalfitana offers a spectac- ular selection of hikes for those seeking a bit of out- door adventure. One hike in p a r t i c u l a r s t a n d s a b o v e them all for sheer beauty – the Sentiero degli Dei…or Path of the Gods. With a name like this, expectations run high; and fortunately, they are met! Slated as one of the top ten hikes in the world, the Path of the Gods h a s e a r n e d i t s t i t l e a s a "must do" activity along the Amalfi Coast. A recent visit to this area gave me the opportunity to experience the hike first- hand. It was a day I'll not soon forget. Being based in the town of Amalfi made for one less obstacle to reach the trailhead in a region that o f t e n r e q u i r e s m u l t i p l e modes of transportation to get from Point A to Point B. A daring bus ride from the seawall up-up-up the moun- tain to Bormerano brings h i k e r s t o t h e t i n y t o w n ' s central piazza. A nearby bar serves as a beehive of activi- ty as locals grab a morning espresso and hikers scurry for the restroom, water, and one of the enticing local pas- tries – certainly necessary for hiking energy! Signs guide the way to the trailhead, a rather unassum- ing asphalt road that offers less than provocative views o f w i l d g r a s s e s g r o w i n g along a hillside and peeks of terraced olive groves. The mundane quickly gives way, however, when the actual t r a i l b e g i n s . G l i m p s e s o f g l i s t e n i n g w a t e r t e a s e o f what's to come as layers of mountainsides, limestone cliffs, and grottos join the collective scene. This area is lush; gentle breezes brought transient wafts of rosemary and other flora up the steep cliffsides to delight our sens- es even more. From Bomerano, the hike transverses about 5 miles before reaching the village of Nocelle, the official end of the path. While it's listed as a m o d e r a t e h i k e , a n y o n e with a reasonable level of endurance can easily man- age. The path does become a b i t c h a l l e n g i n g h e r e a n d there, but it's not a race: take your time to scramble over occasional rocky ter- rain. Being mindful of drop- offs is a good idea, and par- ticularly treacherous ones are guarded by sturdy rail- ing. Common sense is the best thing to toss in your backpack, along with water and a sunhat! It's suggested to allow 2 to 4 hours to complete the course to Nocelle. Factoring in time to stop and absorb the wonders definitely calls for the lengthier estimate. Views along this path are a never-ending wide-screen array of magnificence that constantly surprises. While dazzling views of the sea are endlessly breathtaking, por- tions wind through shaded f o r e s t b e f o r e o p e n i n g t o coastal views. Occasional forays lead into cavernous, even canyon-like segments that kiss towering limestone cliffs and grottos. Sporadic r u i n s s p e a k o f t h o s e w h o dwelled here centuries ago as they carved out a living, while occasional livestock pens hosting pigs or a don- k e y s e e m t o p r a c t i c a l l y hover from stony walls or grassy patches perched over sheer drops. The trail itself is ancient. It's said the Greeks were the first to carve its footprint, opening a means to get from one settlement to the next. Even today, the main por- tion is an active footpath u s e d b y f a r m e r s a n d v i l - lagers to transport goods from village to village, make way to their olive or lemon groves cultivated at heavenly heights, or move livestock to greener grazing. Don't be s u r p r i s e d i f y o u m e e t u p with a few goats or a loaded- up donkey along the way. It's understandable that a pathway such as this would be suitable real estate for the gods, but other explanations exist as to the name of the t r a i l . P e r h a p s t h e m o s t entertaining is based on lit- erature, Homer's Odyssey to be precise. It's said that the gods descended to save Ulysses from the allure of the Sirens' songs as he sailed past their home of Capri. The pathway was created as they trod from above down t o t h e s e a . O t h e r s s a y i t derived its name from the small religious communities a n d h e r m i t s w h o w o u l d shelter here to pray, or per- haps was named by Grand Tour travelers in the 1800s for its sheer beauty. Take your pick: the name is defi- nitely befitting no matter its origin! The final third of the path is perhaps the most evoca- tive, if that's possible to say. E x p a n s i v e c o a s t a l v i e w s open up encompassing the Bay of Naples, Capri, and promenades of craggy coast that slide into the sea, all lined up in orderly chaos. Positano and her beguiling pastel profile reminds that you've come this far – the exhilaration is as good as the view. Perspective is a tricky thing here. The human eye is really not able to translate the grand immensity of the sea hugging the terrain, of the towering height of the mountainsides, of the tum- b l i n g l a n d s c a p e e a s e d b y stairstep terracing and small hamlets as it spills down- ward -- how they marry into one majestic panorama. Try as you may, take as many photos as you please: com- pletely absorbing the beauty as if trying to behold that of a mythical god…it's blind- ingly next to impossible. A r e f r e s h e r o f a n i c y granita or freshly squeezed juice in Nocelle is called for b e f o r e d e s c e n d i n g d o w n 1500 (some say 1700) steps through Montepertuso to Positano. Seaside views and cold gelato await your plea- sure there before boarding t h e f e r r y b a c k t o A m a l f i . What better way to wrap up t h i s h e a v e n l y h i k e t h a n v i e w i n g i t f r o m t h e s e a w h e r e U l y s s e s h e a r d t h e songs that created the path y o u c a n h a r d l y b e l i e v e you've walked. A beautiful view from the Path of the Gods (Photo: Josef Skacel/Dreamstime) Sentiero degli Dei: hiking with the gods PAULA REYNOLDS ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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