L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 21, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano O n e u s u a l l y associates Ro- man cuisine w i t h h e a r t y a n d r o b u s t l y flavored dishes and, by and large, the image holds true. But there are some excep- t i o n s , l i k e t o d a y ' s offering: stracciatella, a light and delicately flavored "egg drop soup." Stracciatella is utterly sim- p l e a n d — i f y o u h a v e t h e broth at hand—very quick to make. Beaten egg is whisked together with grated parmi- giano-reggiano and vari- ous flavorings, then swirled into simmering broth to form l i t t l e c u r d s o r " r a g s " (stracci in Italian) giving the soup its name. It's a great choice for those occasions when you may not be very hungry—perhaps you've had a big lunch and prefer some- thing light but warming for dinner. Stracciatella is also gentle on the stomach, so it's ideal when you're feeling under the weather. And pro- v i d e d y o u h a v e b r o t h o n FRANK FARIELLO hand, it can be whipped up on the spur of the moment, so it's also a great choice for serving unexpected company or when you don't feel much like cooking. Stracciatella perhaps most o f t e n f i g u r e s a s a p r i m o piatto, or first course, and it is a favorite choice for Easter dinner. No doubt it's because of the egg, practically synony- mous with Easter as a symbol of life and rebirth. Stracciatella will sit more gently on the stomach than other Italian favorites, so y o u ' l l s t i l l h a v e p l e n t y o f room for your secondo. Not to mention dessert… Ingredients (Serves 4-6) · 1.5 liters (6 cups) broth, preferably homemade Plus: · 4 medium eggs · 4 h e a p i n g t b s f r e s h l y grated parmesan cheese · Salt and pepper Optional: · 4 tbs semolina · Grated nutmeg · Grated lemon zest · Finely chopped parsley Directions - Bring the broth to a fairly b r i s k s i m m e r ( b u t n o t a rolling boil). - While the broth is com- ing up to heat, in a mixing bowl whisk the egg together with the grated cheese, salt, pepper and, if you like, one or more of the optional flavor- ings, until perfectly smooth and homogenous. - When the broth is sim- mering, pour the egg mixture into it in one go, whisking (or stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon) in a single direction. After a minute or two, the egg mixture will sep- a r a t e i n t o l i t t l e c u r d s or stracci. - Allow the soup to simmer for a couple of minutes more and serve hot, with additional grated cheese on the side for those who care for it. N o t e s . T h e c h o i c e o f broth is yours—chicken, beef or a brodo classico, all go well. What counts is that it is full of flavor and preferably homemade. This is a dish that stands or falls on the quality of the broth. While the core ingredients for stracciatella—broth, egg, and cheese—are a constant, as usual in Italian cookery variations abound. Hence all the optional flavorings. Nut- m e g i s p e r h a p s t h e m o s t common. The semolina is original to the dish, featured in all of the most traditional recipes, including the one in the authoritative Talismano della Felicità. Modern recipes mostly omit it, which makes for an even lighter option. And many modern versions of this dish, including the r e c i p e p r o p o s e d b y the Accademia della Cucina Italiana (and most online recipes you'll come across), call for grated lemon zest, which of course brightens the dish. It can be a nice touch if you have a light hand. If you overdo it, you'll overwhelm the other delicate flavors. Some recipes call for a bit of chopped parsley for color, which I rather like. Or for an e l e g a n t t o u c h , t o p w i t h chopped chive just before serving. O n e i n g r e d i e n t t h a t d o e s n ' t f i g u r e i n I t a l i a n recipes is spinach. That's an Italian-American variation. Stracciatella soup is not to be confused, of course, with the gelato of the same name, or another Roman beef dish called straccetti. And for a more elaborate soup in a similar vein, you might try sciusceddu alla messinese from Sicily. A piping hot bowl of stracciatella alla Romana (Photo: Andrey Zhuravlev/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Simplicity at its best: stracciatella alla Romana

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