L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano G r o w i n g u p i n a S i c i l i a n - A m e r i c a n f a m i l y , holi- d a y s w e r e always an event to savor. As a child, days leading up to a special event were spent with my nonna and her sisters in the kitchen preparing each dish. These dishes were never from a written down recipe, but always from memory; a pinch of this, a little of that, m y n o n n a w o u l d t e l l m e . Q u a n t o b a s t a , p i u o meno. With each dish we pre- pared, a feast of delicious Sicilian dishes would emerge. My mouth would water in anticipation of that first deli- cious bite, the best bite. S p i e d i n i , a l s o k n o w n as involtini and spitini, is simply a rolled and skewered piece of breaded meat or fish that is stuffed with a few spe- cial ingredients on a wooden skewer with bay leaves and onion between each delicious roll. S p i e d i n i m a k i n g i s a n assembly line of controlled chaos. I remember pounding the life out of the poor meat, breadcrumbs flying about, and slicing and dicing of deli- c i o u s f i l l i n g s t h a t w e r e tucked safely into the rolled meat before grilling (in the s u m m e r ) o r b a k e d i n t h e oven (for winter). Origins of spiedini The origin of this recipe is in Palermo, the regional capital, and uses some of the typical ingredients of local cuisine, such as caciocavallo o r p i n e n u t s . P o p u l a r i n restaurants as well as with h o m e c o o k s , s p i e d i n i i s adapted based on the avail- ability of ingredients and the region, based on the tastes and availability of fresh local ingredients across Sicily. In Palermo, you will find spiedini filled with bread- crumbs, caciocavallo, raisins, pine nuts onion and parsley. in Trapani, the spiedini is filled with a similar stuffing, b u t w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n o f lemon or orange zest. While i n T r a p a n i t h e s p i e d i n i is pizzicato with a fresh and fruity punch, in my family's t o w n t h e s p i e d i n i c a n b e made with meat or fresh fish and filled with layers of pro- sciutto, pine nuts, and cherry tomato. The spiedinis made in our home were adapted to work w i t h t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t h a t were available. Our family also adjusted the recipe to suit our Americanized palate, while retaining and respect- ing the traditional flavors one would find in the old country, such as filling the spiedini with fresh tomato, mozzarella, a sliver of onion, and a little hard-boiled egg. When making the spiedi- ni, feel free to have a little fun and adjust the filling w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s s u c h a s tomato, different cheeses, o n i o n , f r e s h h e r b s , a n d nuts. T o d a y , s p i e d i n i c a n b e found across Sicily, often sold pre-made at the local b u t c h e r a n d m a r k e t s . However, making the spiedi- ni at home could not be easi- er. It might be a bit messier, but it's still simple enough for even the most unskilled home cook. And the satisfac- tion of making them at home just can't be beaten. M y a d v i c e ? M a k e t h e recipe in bulk and freeze the JENNIFER SONTAG extras to be enjoyed anytime. This is a treat you're going to w a n t t o e n j o y a g a i n , a n d again…and again. Make a side of roasted potatoes with rosemary and a fresh fennel and blood orange salad and you're set. All that's missing is a chilled bottle of catarat- to. The recipe Sadly, my nonna did not write down her recipe, but after years of watching and helping, I am proud to share a recipe based on my nonna's with a little help from my f r i e n d s a t S a p u t o Macelleria in Terrasini, Sicily. Think about inviting fami- ly and friends to help with the recipe. Make sure to pre- pare enough for everyone to take a batch home to enjoy for another day. S p i e d i n i ( T e r r a s i n i Style) Beef: 20 very thin slices Bread crumbs: 100 g/ ¾ cup Raisins: 2 tbsp Pine nuts: 2 tbsp Pecorino or substitute: 200 g/ 2 cup Cherry tomato: 150 g/ 1 ½ cup Onion: 2 Fresh bay leaves: to taste Extra virgin olive oil: to taste Salt: to taste Black pepper: to taste Soak the raisins in a small b o w l w i t h w a r m w a t e r . Coarsely grate the pecorino. Finely chop the onion and fry with a drizzle of olive oil until i t i s w e l l w i l t e d . A d d t h e onions to the cheese. Strain t h e r a i s i n s a n d a d d t h e o n i o n / c h e e s e m i x t o t h e raisins and the pine nuts. Finely chop the tomato and add it to the stuffing mix as well. Add salt, pepper and mix well, adding a little oil if necessary, until you get a malleable and moist dough. (feel free to substitute your filling to match what is sea- sonal and fits your taste). Place the meat slices on a flat work surface. First, brush the meat slices with a little olive oil and then dip into the s t u f f i n g m i x t u r e , m a k i n g sure to fully coat the meat. Next add the filling to the center of each slice of meat. Close the roll by first clos- ing the long side and then the short side. This is done to make sure the filling doesn't e s c a p e w h i l e c o o k i n g . I f you've made braciole, the process of closing the rolls is very similar. Once all the rolls have been prepared, alternate them on a baking pan previously greased with oil. Sprinkle the pan with bay leaves and raw onion petals. Arrange the rolls in a bak- ing dish or on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil and cook on the top shelf of the oven with the grill only at 250 ° C/480 F. As soon as the surface of the meat is golden, turn them and brown the other part as well, about 20 minutes total. E adesso, MANGIA! Buon appetito! Jennifer Sontag, a serial entrepreneur, is the owner o f I t a l i a n C i t i z e n s h i p Concierge, a bespoke citizen- s h i p a g e n c y t h a t h e l p s Italian Americans gain citi- zenship in Italy through Jure Sanguinis. Currently living in Terrasini, Sicily, Jennifer sets out to help her clients gain a new outlook on life in Italy. Jennifer grew up in a big Italian American family where her nonna and 9 sis- ters would spend their days preparing delicious meals to share with family. Delicious Sicilian spiedini (Photo: Ekaterina Spirina/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Spiedini alla siciliana. A Sicilian classic

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