L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 28, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano V e n e z i a è u n i c a , t h e r e isn't a place in the world like V e n i c e . B u t some corners of Italy are blessed with similar allure, i f n o t w i t h t h e s a m e g r a n d e u r a n d m a j e s t y : Comacchio is one of such corners. T h i s t o w n o f a b o u t 23,000 is located on the Po Delta, just over a mile from the coast. In fact, if location is important to you, Comac- chio is a good place to be if you'd like to visit cities like Ravenna and Ferrara which are only, respectively, 22 and 31 miles away. But the truth is that, if you are in Comacchio, you may just w i s h t o e n j o y y o u r t i m e there. In common with Venice, the Romagna town has its symbiotic relationship with water, because not only is it a s t o n e ' s t h r o w f r o m t h e sea, but it also lives on the Po, our largest, longest, and most important River. The Po made Italy rich and its presence is akin to that of a wise elder who, with their presence, shapes and trans- forms the history and future of the land around. Then, in C o m a c c h i o , t h e r e a r e canals, just like in Venice, and seven lidi, beaches, the perfect destination for f a m i l y v a c a t i o n s o r t i m e with friends. It is also con- s i d e r e d t h e c a p i t a l o f the Parco del Delta del P o , a n a t u r a l p a r k o f immense beauty and impor- tant for its unique flora and fauna. I have memories of my grandmother, back when I w a s a c h i l d , b u y i n g e e l s f r o m C o m a c c h i o o n Wednesday, at the market: indeed, the town has always been famous for its eels, so much so there is even a fair d e d i c a t e d t o t h e m , t h e Sagra dell'Anguilla, the first two weekends of Octo- ber. One of its most iconic monuments, the Manifat- tura dei Marinati is also c o n n e c t e d t o t h e h u m b l e eel, because it used to be a processing factory for this fish; today it's a museum and you can visit it all year round. Comacchio has a beauti- fully preserved historical center that fully developed, as one would expect, around the town's intricate canal network. While you enjoy a stroll, you can't miss the i m p o s i n g p r e s e n c e o f the Trepponti, also known as Ponte Pallotta, the most c h a r a c t e r i s t i c b r i d g e i n town because of its pentago- n a l p l a n i m e t r y a n d f i v e arches, each of them sup- porting the bridge over a d i f f e r e n t c a n a l . I t w a s designed by architect Gio- vanni Pietro da Lugano and built by Luca Danese, on the c o m m i s s i o n o f C a r d i n a l G i o v a n B a t t i s t a P a l l o t t a , from whom the bridge gets its official name. We are, here, in the early to the mid- 17th century. For a moment of respite and meditation, the Basili- ca di San Cassiano is the perfect place to be. You'll be surprised by its neoclassical interior, hidden within a red b r i c k b o d y t h a t s t r i k e s mostly for its simplicity. To continue your cultural exploration of Comacchio, y o u s h o u l d t h e n h e a d t o t h e M u s e o D e l t a A n t i - co, dedicated to the devel- o p m e n t o f h u m a n s e t t l e - m e n t s i n t h e P o D e l t a throughout history: here, the centerpiece is, without a doubt, the full content of a R o m a n c o m m e r c i a l s h i p d a t i n g b a c k t o t h e e a r l y y e a r s o f A u g u s t u s ' r u l e . After sinking, the ship was q u i c k l y c o v e r e d i n s a n d , which protected its cargo and other content for 2000 years: amazingly preserved everyday objects and sailing i n s t r u m e n t s a r e s h o w n along with amphorae, vases, and precious metals. B u t i t i s , p e r h a p s , t h e canals that attract the most, because they are so reminis- cent of Venice but so differ- ent at the same time. All cities and towns that live on water have something magi- cal, Comacchio included, because they stand between two worlds, two different dimensions, two different elements. Its many bridges, its colorful homes, especially those in the town center, a n d i t s b o a t s d o r e c a l l Venice, but in a way that has nothing to do with "imita- tion." The two towns, quite simply, share a way of life, and the secrets of pacifying the stability of the soil and the fluid, silver-hued unpre- dictability of water. Let's not forget, however, that Comacchio stands at the very heart of the Parco del Delta del Po, an area that is part of the UNESCO Her- itage List. Here, too, water a n d e a r t h p l a y w i t h o n e another, but there are trees instead of homes and fish, b i r d s , a n d o t h e r a n i m a l s instead of people. It's a col- o r f u l a n d p e a c e f u l p l a c e , where all we can do is watch and take in with respect the b e a u t y a n d m a j e s t y o f Nature. After a full day of urban or natural exploration, we a r e b o u n d t o b e h u n g r y . Fear not, because Comac- chio – as you would expect from any place in Romagna, the Mamma of Italy's most wholesome yet indulgent food – has plenty of good grub to tuck into. Actually, C o m a c c h i o i s p a r t o f t h e Delta del Po gastronomic trail Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori! If you like fish, you are in the right place. Comacchio offers traditional starters made with scallops, mantis shrimps, clams, and mains like risotto with seafood or s p a g h e t t i w i t h c r a b o r shrimps. But perhaps the best comes with the variety of grilled fish – including eel! - you can get, or the tra- ditional polenta with mullet, sole or stuffed squid. Fancy a glass of wine with it? Well, y o u a r e l u c k y , b e c a u s e C o m a c c h i o i s a l s o a t t h e center of a good wine-pro- ducing area: ask for Bosco Eliceo DOC with your meal. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI A typical view of Comacchio, with its colorful homes and canals (Photo: Massimo Bartolucci/Dreamstime) Comacchio, Emilia-Romagna's little Venice ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

• Cover