L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano L a t e a u t u m n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s s e n d s a wake-up call to intrepid hunters t o g e t u p a t t h e c r a c k o f dawn, pack their shotguns or rifles and prowl designat- e d f i e l d s a n d w o o d s i n search of deer, ducks and other game. In Italy at that time of year, a different breed of h u n t e r s e t s f o r t h . H e ' s unarmed, guided by moon- light instead of sunlight, and tracks down what biologists call tuber magnatum, oth- erwise known as the white truffle. His favorite hunt- ing grounds is the north- ern Piedmont region. Few people ever get to f o l l o w t h e c a c c i a t o r e d i tartufi (truffle hunter) as he pursues the most prized of earthy delights. He's secre- tive to the point of being paranoid, sworn never to reveal the exact spots in the f o r e s t w h e r e h e a n d h i s highly trained dog uncover these elusive culinary dia- monds in the rough. C r e e p i n g c a u t i o u s l y through the darkened mist, the hunter carries only a walking stick, flashlight and handmade spade. The dog pauses to sniff the base of a large oak tree, pawing the d i r t t o i n d i c a t e i t f o u n d something. Dogs are pre- ferred over pigs in hunting t r u f f l e s b e c a u s e t h e y a r e more focused on pleasing their master than the truffle i t s e l f . I n f a c t , a n e x p e r i - enced truffle-seeking dog c a n b e w o r t h a s m u c h a s $20,000. The hunter rewards his dog with a treat and careful- ly starts digging with the spade. Thirty or so minutes later, the truffle emerges – y e l l o w i s h w h i t e , c o v e r e d with dirt, gnarled and emit- ting a subtle, savory scent. The rest of the evening p a s s e s i n a m u r k y h a z e , punctuated by the hushed s o u n d s o f d o g s s n i f f i n g , s p a d e s d i g g i n g a n d t h e aroma of fresh earth. Sips of grappa by the hunters are regarded as a sure way to ward off the fall chill. On a successful hunt, the guy will bag four to six truf- fles, each weighing up to a quarter pound. He'll keep the smaller one for his own kitchen and sell the others. Demand for the fabled fun- gus is so strong that they can fetch up to $6,000 per pound. No wonder that dealing in truffles in Italy can be a cloak-and-dagger business, t r a n s p i r i n g i n d i m l y l i t r o o m s a n d s t r i c t l y w i t h cash. No questions asked, no explanation expected. It's a c l a s s i c c a s e o f b u y e r beware – you buy what you see, so you better know what to look for. Cheaters have been known to pack truffles with dirt or clay to make them heavier. Around $350 is a remark- able price tag for something so small, dirty and ugly. But the payoff comes when you slice it open and take a whiff of that incomparable scent, d e s c r i b e d a s a b l e n d o f musk and rare filet steak. Or, as one Italian chef puts it, the perfect marriage of garlic and Parmesan cheese. To safeguard its truffle industry and share of a $6 billion annual global mar- ket, the Italian government regulates the start of the h a r v e s t s e a s o n o n p u b l i c lands. This has resulted in an influx of truffles from Slovenia and Croatia, which are not subjected to tariffs. Italian and French truffles are considered the cream of the crop. Truffles are, basically, the fruit of underground mush- rooms that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of trees like oak, birch and hazel. They contain calcium, potassium and magnesium. They are also a source of antioxidants. H o w a t r u f f l e g r o w s i s s o m e w h a t o f a m y s t e r y . While some cultivation is d o n e b y i n j e c t i n g s p o r e s i n t o t h e r o o t s o f m a t u r e trees, this process can take up to 15 years. Most grow wild and unpredictable, as one tree can yield an annual production while another nearby is sterile. That's why finding and unearthing truf- fles has become a game of intrigue similar to a treasure hunt in Italy. There's nothing mysteri- o u s , h o w e v e r , a b o u t t h e truffle's culinary influ- e n c e . T h o u g h t h e b l a c k s u m m e r v a r i e t y i s b y n o means inferior, the white winter version is regarded as "il primo." Its oil, driz- z l e d o n s e a f o o d , m e a t s , poultry, salads and vegeta- bles, elevates the dish to a palatable pinnacle. Dining on food baptized with white truffles creates a meal like no other. To assure e x c e l l e n c e , t h e t r u f f l e s should be ordered from a t r u s t w o r t h y s u p p l i e r . T o maintain freshness, they are wrapped with paper towels and sealed in plastic. Shav- ing them at the table is an experience all on its own. A serrated slicer is preferred over a flat blade. T h o u g h t h e y l a c k t h e m y s t i q u e a n d f i n a n c i a l rewards of Italian truffles, t h e e a r t h y o r b s a r e a l s o found in the US, in North and South Carolina, Ten- nessee, Virginia, Kentucky, N e w H a m p s h i r e , O r e g o n and California. The most prolific of these locations is the Appalachian mountain range along the East Coast, w h e r e h u n t e r s a n d t h e i r trained dogs are likely to be sniffing around for what has become a late autumn ritual. C e n t u r i e s a g o , R o m a n connoisseurs craved truffles as gastronomic gems, claim- ing that their alluring per- fume also triggers aphro- d i s i a c i m p u l s e s . P e r h a p s that's why describing a truf- fle as "seductive" refers to more than just the palate. CHUCK PECORARO A truffle hunter with his bounty (Photo: Sung Yee Tchao/Dreamstime) H u n t i n g t r u ffl e s i n I t a l y i s a dark secret ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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