L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano N o sooner than S a n t a C l a u s leaves, anoth- e r m y t h i c a l c h a r a c t e r arrives. The glow of the holi- days fades into the gloom of J a n u a r y , w i t h a t l e a s t a three-month visit from Old Man Winter. But if sticking around and dealing with snow, ice, and wind chill factors doesn't seem so cool, there are other places where winter actually can be enjoyable. Especially if you get a kick out of strap- ping on a pair of skis and sliding down a picturesque, snow-covered mountainside. One of the more desirable winter wonderlands is the I t a l i a n A l p s , w h e r e t h e adrenaline rush of negotiat- ing miles of pristine white p o w d e r i s c a p p e d b y t h e palatable rewards of Italian dining and wining at restau- rants warmed by a glowing fireplace. In the United States, a day on the slopes may conclude w i t h a b u r g e r , f r i e s , c o l d beer, or hot chocolate. In Courmayeur, at the tip of Italy's Valle d'Aosta, the pièce de resistance in a hill- top lodge most likely is a p l a t e o f f e t t u c c i n e a l l a B o l o g n e s e o r r i s o t t o a l l a M i l a n e s e a n d a g l a s s o f smooth Merlot. W i t h E u r o p e ' s h i g h e s t mountain in the background, Courmayeur sits snugly in a valley. Directly to the north i s t h e a l p i n e v i l l a g e o f Entrèves, dotted with a num- ber of chalets. In the vicinity, you can take a cable car ride across Mont Blanc, all the way to Chamonix, France, a t r i p t h a t ' s d a r i n g a n d thrilling. Courmayeur is reached f r o m t h e U S b y f l y i n g t o Milan, then taking a bus or v a n n o r t h w a r d i n t o t h e mountains. Along the scenic route, the driver points out l a n d m a r k s , i n c l u d i n g m e d i e v a l c a s t l e s , t h a t prompt jet-lagged passen- gers to sit up and take notice. The valley forms an apex for an international triangle. Y o u c a n s k i i n I t a l y a n d Switzerland on the same day in the shadow of the world- famous Matterhorn, or take CHUCK PECORARO king's family as well. Por- tions are humongous, more than enough to pacify any appetite worked up mean- dering down the mountain- side. Like other local eateries, the Tunnel also serves a tra- ditional mixture of steaming coffee, sugar, and grappa in a wood-carved cup called a grolla. In a not-so-subtle way, the potent drink deliv- ers warmth with a wallop. Courmayeur's cuisine is consistent with Valle d'Aos- ta's alpine atmosphere, a hearty fare of thick soups, d a r k r y e b r e a d k n o w n a s pane nero, boiled chestnuts, polenta, and pork dishes. G a m e i s c o m m o n i n r e s t a u r a n t s a n d h o m e s , specifically wild boar, deer, mountain goat, and chamois, a small goat-like antelope. The chamois is marinated in herbs and dried into a dish called mocetta that's simi- l a r t o p r o s c i u t t o , t h o u g h leaner and more flavorful. The area's most renowned product is Fontina cheese, which owes its mellow taste to both the cows that graze in mountain pastures and the abundance of herbs that grow throughout the land- scape. Earthy gorgonzola is a n o t h e r c h e e s e p r o d u c e d within these borders. Due primarily to the mild summers and frosty winters, Valle d'Aosta and neighbor- ing regions yield some of Italy's finest wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, a n d s p a r k l i n g A s t i Spumante. Courmayeur's most élite dining spot is Il Grill at the Hotel Royal e Golf. Relative- ly simple, expertly prepared dishes include pasta e fagi- oli, carpaccio, risotto and veal Cipriani. The foie gras spread on brioche is rated among Italy's best. Less elegant is Cadran Solaire, a converted 16th- c e n t u r y c h a l e t f e a t u r i n g warm goat cheese salad, sea- sonal vegetables with noo- d l e s , b a k e d c h e e s e a n d spinach casserole, and duck breast with plums. A stone-and-timber build- ing in an isolated courtyard houses Leone Rosso, with a menu listing fondues, a dense regional version of minestrone, tagliatelle with mushrooms, and some tasty desserts. For after-hours fun and i m b i b i n g , s n o w b u n n i e s g a t h e r a t t h e A m e r i c a n Bar, a crowded, noisy water- ing hole and meet market. A bit more sedate are Caffé d e l l a P o s t a a n d L e Clochard, where patrons s i p a n d s o c i a l i z e a r o u n d huge, crackling fireplaces. Regardless of where you stay, how well you ski, what y o u e a t o r d r i n k , o r h o w much you spend, the scenery in this part of the Italian Alps is worth the trip. It's b r e a t h t a k i n g a n d f r e e . Around here, Old Man Win- ter is regarded as a nice guy. If you can't get to Cour- mayeur this winter, you can bring a taste of the Italian Alps to you with one of its s i g n a t u r e p a s t a d i s h e s : tagliolini freschi al mas- carpone e limone (tagli- olini noodles with mascar- pone and lemon). Here's the recipe! Ingredients (serve 6) 1 1/2 pounds of tagliolini 18 ounces of mascarpone ½ cup of grated Parmesan 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup of finely chopped mint leaves Mint sprigs to garnish Directions Prepare tagliolini al dente and drain; heat mascarpone and add Parmesan, lemon z e s t , s a l t , p e p p e r , a n d chopped mint. Adjust seasonings. Combine tagliolini with cheese sauce and arrange on serving plates. G a r n i s h w i t h s p r i g s o f mint. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Italian Alps, a winter hot spot a side trip into France. The storybook village with the French-influenced name offers well-preserved cobble- s t o n e s t r e e t s l i n e d w i t h quaint shops, restaurants, a n d m o r e g e l a t o v e n d o r s t h a n a s m a l l t o w n r e a l l y needs. On a culinary note, vege- tarian travelers sometimes struggle to find meatless eats i n a n a r e a o b s e s s e d w i t h pork. At one dining spot, a cheese the waiter insisted was meat-free was infused with slivers of ham. At a cozy pizzeria called D u T u n n e l , a p i z z a t i t l e d "Maxi Gusto" turns out to be not only fit for a king but the A plate of fettuccine with lemon and cheese sauce (Photo: Funandrejs/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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