L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 9, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano " Are you going to eat at that place with the life-changing zucchi- ni pasta?" a friend joked after I spoke of p l a n s t o v i s i t t h e A m a l f i Coast. Of course, she was referencing the Campania e p i s o d e o f S e a r c h i n g f o r Tucci where the actor visits a Positano restaurant to see how spaghetti alla Nerano is made. While I laughed and con- c e d e d t h a t I w a s n ' t g o i n g there, I had planned a stay in Salerno—as tourists often do—as a base for exploring the Amalfi Coast and Pom- peii due to its proximity to both. However, I soon dis- covered that I preferred the relative calm of this small city to the cramped bus rides and touristy villages further west, as well as the accessi- bility to excellent food and enjoyment of it in a mellow a t m o s p h e r e . W h e r e a s i n Naples I might choke down m y p i z z a w i t h a g u s t o f d i e s e l , i n S a l e r n o I c o u l d taste each flavor and hear my own thoughts rather than the incessant rattle and hum of motorcycle engines zooming by my table. There are no large-scale t o u r i s t g r o u p s h e r e — y o u won't see a little plastic flag bobbing above heads while a g a r b l e d v o i c e b o o m s o u t t h r o u g h a s p e a k e r o n t h e street—just the daily stream of life going by as locals grab a morning coffee on Corso V i t t o r i o E m a n u e l e b e f o r e taking off for work. T h i s a u t h e n t i c c h a r m , alongside its history, tradi- tions, and local food, make S a l e r n o w o r t h g e t t i n g t o k n o w i n g r e a t e r d e t a i l . I s p o k e w i t h n a t i v e - b o r n Maria De Vita, president of Ecstra, a group of Saler- no-based hospitality leaders created in 2021 who are ded- i c a t e d t o p r o m o t i n g t h e town's character and authen- ticity in the tourism sphere. "The soul of the Salerni- tani is similar to that of peo- ple throughout the South, w h o h a v e a l w a y s w o r k e d hard to find jobs and social status, but for whom little is needed to be happy. They are simple and welcoming peo- ple," De Vita shared. Salerno has a long histo- ry, dating back to the 6th century BC, when the Etr- uscans ruled a large part of Italy. Later, during Roman rule, the town was given the name Salernum. It under- w e n t i n v a s i o n s , c h a n g e d hands, and after becoming its own principality in the 9th century, it blossomed during the medieval period. It eventually succumbed to Spanish forces and returned to Neapolitan rule in 1799. A s f o r l o c a l f o o d a n d traditions, like many in Italy, they are deeply tied to the religious calendar. The m o s t i m p o r t a n t h o n o r s Salerno's patron saint, San Matteo, on September 21st each year. This celebration calls for the preparation of l a m i l z a i m b o t t i t a , o r s t u f f e d v e a l s p l e e n . T h e large organ (for those unfa- miliar, picture what looks like a giant tongue or an eel) is prepared by stuffing pars- ley, mint, garlic, salt, and pepper into the membrane sac still covering the spleen. Then, it's slow-cooked for s e v e r a l h o u r s o v e r a l o w flame in a bath of olive oil and vinegar, which helps to reduce the intensity of the meaty flavor. Once cooked a n d c o o l e d , t h e m i l z a i s eaten sliced and spread on bread. On the sweeter side, la scazzetta di Pantaleone is Salerno's signature dessert. Two layers of sponge cake sandwiched with whipped cream and wild strawberries are covered with a strawber- ry glaze. Local baker Mario Pantaleone created this cake in 1920, taking inspira- tion from the crimson robes of cardinals. While not tied to a particular holiday, la scazzetta is traditionally a springtime treat and can be found at Dolceria Pantale- one in Via dei Mercanti. T h i n k t h a t p i z z a i s reserved only for Naples? The Salernitani may beg to d i f f e r . W h i l e e x c e l l e n t Neapolitan-style pizza can be found here, local pizzaio- lo Carmine Donadio cre- a t e d h i s o w n p i e , w h i c h became a ubiquitous local f a v o r i t e a n d i s n o w t h e town's specialty. Lovingly named pizza Carminuccio, it focuses on the strong fla- v o r s o f t h e l o c a l t e r r o i r , e m p h a s i z i n g C a m p a n i a n tomatoes and cheese, diced pancetta cubes, and basil. A n d a s w e k n o w , t h e Campania region is famed for its DOP buffalo milk mozzarella. But a cheese- maker in a local town in the Salerno province is respon- sible for the more visually arresting take on the dairy product known as la Ziz- zona di Battipaglia: a dra- m a t i c a l l y l a r g e , b r e a s t - shaped ball of mozzarella featuring a nipple on top. ( T h e r e i s a l s o a " b o m b a " version with smaller "chil- dren"—aka mini mozzarelle di bufala balls—that slide out when the "mamma" is sliced open). Beyond food, festivals often lure outsiders to town. The rare plant and flower exposition, or Mostra della Minerva, takes place in mid- April, linking modern-day flora to the historic Giardi- no della Minerva. This hillside botanical garden dates back to the medieval period when Salerno was r e v e r e d f o r i t s m e d i c a l school—the most important in Europe at the time—and the garden's herbs could be cultivated and studied for their potential therapeutic a n d h e a l i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Today, one can take a tour of the gardens. Springtime also brings with it a chance to watch the medieval reenactments dur- ing the Fiera del Crocifis- so, or Festival of the Cruci- fix. This event tells the story of local legend Pietro Bar- liario, a Salerno-born doc- tor and alchemist who spe- cialized in the magic arts during the late 11th century. One day, two of his nephews found Barliario's necroman- cy books, started playing with magic in his lab, and soon after were found dead. Barliario felt so guilty that he prayed before the crucifix i n t h e C h u r c h o f S a n Benedetto, and after three d a y s o f p r a y e r , J e s u s opened his eyes as if to par- don him. In turn, he devot- ed the rest of his life to the brotherhood. Although Bar- liario's existence is still the subject of debate, every May locals come to the city cen- ter to celebrate the miracle of the cross. A n d i f o n e p l a n s a December holiday stopover i n S a l e r n o , t h e y w i l l b e t r e a t e d t o t h e L u c i d'Artista, a series of light installations that sparkle throughout the town and change according to a new theme every year. One can book a stay in Salerno principally for the convenience of ferrying up the Amalfi coast. But after s o a k i n g u p t h e r e l a x i n g e n e r g y , s e a v i e w s a n d mountainous vistas from the town's lungomare, visi- tors will be entranced and want to devote more time to this authentic and charac- ter-rich part of Campania. " I t ' s o f t e n c h o s e n f o r i t s central location," De Vita says. "But those who come and experience Salerno and i t s p e o p l e c a n ' t h e l p b u t r e t u r n , b e c a u s e t h e r e i s always something new to discover." Salerno: a pearl coming out of its shell JESSICA L. LEVY ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Medieval reenactment during the "Fiera del Crocifisso" in Salerno (Photo: Maria De Vita)

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