L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, APRIL 6, 2023 L'Italo-Americano P indar famously described Agri- gento, recently c h o s e n a s the Italian Cap- ital of Culture for 2025, as "the most beautiful of mortal cities." We, more than two m i l l e n n i a l a t e r , c a n s t i l l understand why, when stand- ing in awe in the majestic, t i m e l e s s V a l l e d e i T e m p l i . B u t A g r i g e n t o i s more than archaeology and h i s t o r y , i t a l s o s p e a k s o f r e s i l i e n c e a d t o l e r a n c e . Despite being one of the most e c o n o m i c a l l y - c h a l l e n g e d p r o v i n c e s i n t h e c o u n t r y A g r i g e n t o , o r b e t t e r , t h e i s l a n d o f L a m p e d u s a — which is part of the province itself — remains a symbol of h o p e f o r h u n d r e d s o f migrants seeking in democra- tic Europe refuge and protec- t i o n f r o m w a r , f a m i n e , hunger, and violence. Indeed, the cultural pro- gram the city proposed for its Italian Capital of Culture bid brings together both of these aspects: the historical and artistic, and the contempo- rary and socially engaged. The proposal was inspired by Empedocles's four ele- ments: Air, Water, Earth, and Fire, the union and sepa- ration of which through love and hatred were considered the source of, respectively, Life and Death by our ancient ancestors. Water connects us to the Mediterranean, to the city's historical cross-border identi- t y , a n d t o t h e t h e m e s o f migration, inclusion, and sol- idarity. Earth represents Agrigento's inland and its many unexplored, heritage- rich villages. Air embodies modernity, the digital revolu- tion, and our renewed need to be connected we have been experiencing after the pan- demic. Finally, Fire symbol- izes Agrigento and its peo- ple's traditions and crafts, the perfect metaphor for a com- munity deeply attached to its history and the land it inhab- its. It is easy to see how the program won: it is based on t h e k e y i d e a o f b r i n g i n g together past and present and creating a sustainable future of beauty, culture, and toler- ance, something that could be easily applied to Italy as a whole, as stated in the pro- gram itself. Agrigento, Italian Capital of Culture for 2025: we know about its ancient temples, a b o u t i t s a l m o n d s , a b o u t Lampedusa, but what else? T h e c i t y , l o c a t e d a f e w kilometers from the Mediter- ranean coast on the south- west of the island, is beauti- f u l l y p e r c h e d o n a h i l l o f tufaceous rock overlooking the Valle dei Templi and the sea. Around it, is a territory that holds within the essence itself of Sicily: the Mediter- ranean shrub, white, rocky promontories, and endless beaches. Considered one of the richest and most beauti- f u l c i t i e s b y t h e A n c i e n t Greeks, we can still see the vestiges of such a glorious past in its archaeological park which, with its 1,300 hectares, is the largest in the world. Throughout the centuries, the city had four names: κράγας for the Greeks, Agri- g e n t u m f o r t h e R o m a n s , G e r g e n t f o r t h e Arabs, and Girgenti for the N o r m a n s . T h e o r i g i n a l meaning of the name was "the maximum that can be achieved," a clear sign of w h a t t h e G r e e k s w a n t e d κράγας to be. Indeed, it was them who founded it in 581 BC and made it, in just four centuries, powerful and mag- nificent, as the still breath- t a k i n g V a l l e d e i T e m p l i s h o w s . I t s d e c l i n e b e g a n after several wars against Carthage for the control of the Sicilian Channel. Later, d u r i n g R o m e ' s o w n w a r s against Carthage, it was con- quered by the Romans. Later still, the Arabs arrived, and then, in 1089, it was the turn o f t h e N o r m a n s , w h o r e n a m e d i t G i r g e n t i , a name it retained until 1927. Of course, the first place we'd like to visit in — or bet- ter, around — Agrigento, is the iconic Valle dei Tem- p l i , w h i c h i s a b o u t 5 k m f r o m t h e c i t y c e n t e r . Enclosed in, as mentioned, the largest archaeological park in the world, the Valley i s o n e o f S i c i l y ' s t e n UNESCO sites: here, we can e n j o y a n d e x p e r i e n c e impressive Doric temples, agoras, pagan and Christian necropolises, and a wide net- work of underground aque- d u c t s . T h e t e m p l e s o f Juno and Concordia are particularly noteworthy but, in general, the Valley of the Temples is so well preserved that scholars prefer to study the architectural history of t h e A n c i e n t G r e e k s h e r e rather than on the Acropolis in Athens, where most of the temples have been rebuilt. After exploring the Valley, we can head to the Region- al Archaeological Muse- u m l o c a t e d i n t h e u p p e r agora of the ancient city. The museum has almost 6,000 artifacts spread across 18 rooms, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the area. If you are a history and archaeology lover, there is m o r e t o e x p l o r e f o r y o u . Some 25 miles from Agrigen- t o , w e f i n d E r a c l e a Minoa, an ancient settle- ment founded in the 6th cen- tury BC by Greeks from Seli- n u n t e . T h e c i t y w a s t h e n conquered by the Romans who, for various reasons, abandoned it already in the 1st century AD. All traces of Eraclea Minoa were lost until the 1950s, when exca- vations in the area began, bringing to light a plethora of a r t i f a c t s a n d a G r e e k amphitheater. But Agrigento itself is rich in history, too: starting from its main street, Via Atenea, we can explore narrow alleys and steep staircases leading t o b e a u t i f u l c h u r c h e s , palaces, and monasteries. T h e M o n a s t e r o d e l l o Spirito Santo, in particu- lar, is worth a mention: it is a n e x c e l l e n t e x a m p l e o f medieval architecture built by the Chiaramonte family in 1299. The monastery, which boasts a large cloister and magnificent Baroque decora- tions in the chapter hall, is a l s o h o m e t o a h e r i t a g e m u s e u m s h o w c a s i n g a n interesting nativity scene set in the historic center of Agri- gento, and a collection of ancient Sicilian tools and utensils. If you have sweet t o o t h , y o u ' l l b e h a p p y t o know that the nuns at the monastery still make excep- tional almond and pistachio- based desserts! Central in the history and architecture of the city is cer- tainly its Cathedral, dedi- cated to San Gerlando, the patron saint of Agrigento. F o u n d e d a r o u n d t h e 1 1 t h century by the then-bishop G e r l a n d o , i t i s t o d a y a n incredible mix of Arab, Nor- m a n , G o t h i c , a n d e v e n Baroque styles. Its aesthetic history is quite tumultuous: through the centuries, the building was expanded and then reduced in size, frescoes and decorations were added and then removed in the 17th century, and its wooden ceil- ings were fully changed three times. Yet — and quite sur- prisingly, if you allow me — the church remains balanced a n d h a r m o n i o u s . I f y o u decide to climb up its bell tower, you will enjoy one of the most incredible views i m a g i n a b l e : t h e V a l l e d e i Templi, Porto Empedocle, and the crystal-like blue of the Mediterranean. San Ger- lando also has some curious c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s y o u m a y enjoy: if you whisper some- thing while standing at its entrance to a friend standing in the apse, they will hear you perfectly! If natural beauty is what y o u s e e k , t h e A g r i g e n t o province has a lot to offer as well. The famous Scala dei Turchi, known for its white rocks and blue sea, is along the coast of Realmonte, only 9 miles from Agrigento town. You may be familiar with it, b e c a u s e A n d r e a C a m i l - leri often mentioned it in his M o n t a l b a n o n o v e l s a n d Giuseppe Tornatore used it in the movie Malèna, with Monica Bellucci. Carved over millennia by the wind and the sea, the area took on the incredible form of a white staircase that plunges into the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. Its name, which literally translates as "the Turks' staircase," comes from a legend that tells us how, during their invasion of Sicily, the Turks used these natural stairs to reach land. Here, too, history takes once more center stage. The Temple of Concordia, in Agrigento's Valley of the Temples (Photo: Sergiomonti/Dreamstime) Agrigento, paradise of culture, history, and nature, is the Italian Capital of Culture 2025 FRANCESCA BEZZONE ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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