L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano T he word "castle" e a s i l y c o n j u r e s i m a g e s o f grandeur and roy- alty, places where mere mortals dare not dwell. Fortunately, many of Italy's historic castles deliver the a p p r o p r i a t e a n d e x p e c t e d visual fantasy. Some, howev- e r , a r e s e t a p a r t . I s c h i a ' s Castello Aragonese is one such gem. Dominating its own rocky islet, the castle's distinct profile and presence make for one of Italy's most breathtaking and alluring sights. Castello Aragonese domi- nates the view when entering Ischia Ponte's port, the main entry/exit for water traffic to the island of Ischia. A dra- matic sprawl of stone struc- t u r e s , w a l l s , a n d t o w e r s appear to magically rise from the craggy tiny island they occupy. Ferry boats of tourists transform into paparazzi as excited chatter erupts and phone cameras struggle to capture the sight. If there were any doubt about visiting the castle, it's dispelled by the time passengers disembark. A tour is a must but first, a time travel sweep to peel back t h e l a y e r s o f C a s t e l l o Aragonese's vivid past. It's an impassioned story of power, struggle, wins and defeats… and some truly cataclysmic events. The earliest recorded settlement on the islet was at t h e h a n d s o f G e r o n e o f Syracuse in the 5th century BC, at which time it was a connected extension of the m a i n l a n d . T h e R o m a n s kicked off Gerone and party d u r i n g t h e 4 t h c e n t u r y , founding a lower fortified set- tlement called Aenaria. By t h e 2 n d c e n t u r y , m o t h e r nature became restless: a vol- c a n i c e r u p t i o n d e s t r o y e d Aenaria and cut off access to the mainland... and a tiny island was born. Throughout the unrest of the Middle Ages, various groups won and lost control of the islet settlement, each leaving behind added structures. By 1299, the ruling Angevins decided a bridge c o n n e c t i n g t h e m a i n l a n d would be a good idea. Yet once again nature had other ideas and – boom – another volcanic eruption produced a l a v a f l o w t h a t d e s t r o y e d much of the lower town and port. Many took refuge high on the rock, including noble families who built palatial homes and a cathedral. A t r u e t o w n b e g a n t o t a k e shape. By the 14th century, Alfonso I of Aragon (hence the name Aragonese) took reign over the castle settle- ment. Under Aragonese rule, a tunnel was cut through the rock from the shoreline for access to the castle, and the stone bridge still present today was built; prosperity ruled…for a while. By the 17th century, only 250 inhab- itants remained, including t h e C o n v e n t o f t h e P o o r C l a r e s . A s t h e c e n t u r i e s p a s s e d , f u r t h e r d e c l i n e resulted from ensuing clash- es and wars, and by 1860, the m o s t l y a b a n d o n e d c a s t l e became a ward of the state. An appropriate happy end- ing/beginning was found when private ownership in the 20th century initiated major restorations resulting in the masterpiece we see today. D e d i c a t e a t l e a s t t w o hours when making plans to visit, but preferably half a day and possibly longer, if leisurely strolls and contem- p l a t i o n a r e i m p o r t a n t . Aragon's rock bridge leads to the entrance, but it seems a g o o d i d e a t o e n j o y a pausa before the adventure begins. Several bars at the base of the bridge offer prime viewing over cappuccino – a good way to relish the visual grandeur of what awaits. Once tickets are in hand, things get exciting. A cool, mysterious pathway through the rocky tunnel instantly takes you back in time; soft l i g h t h i g h l i g h t s g h o s t l y walls…the urge to linger is strong. Lifts are available for the remainder of the trip to the top where the walking tour commences. Points of interest along the 2 km tour are well marked and mostly easy to navigate with pam- phlet in hand. The stoic Church of the Immaculate Conception is your introduction to the castle town, a beautifully d e s i g n e d b u t u n a d o r n e d cathedral built by the Con- vent of Poor Clares. So poor, in fact, that they sold off the silver to try to complete the church, but alas. First-born daughters of nobles were sent here, assuring that the first-born son would receive the family inheritance. The s t o r y b e c o m e s m a c a b r e , despite the surreal beauty surrounding their convent, u p o n e n t e r i n g t h e n u n ' s c e m e t e r y , t h e C i m i t e r o delle Monache Clarisse. As eyes adjust to the dark windowless rooms, toilet-like stone chairs lining the walls become visible. Deceased nuns were seated here to decompose, the fluids col- lected in a container under the seat. Last stop was the ossuary room where dried bones were stacked. The sis- ters were required to pray for hours at the feet of their pre- deceased to reflect on the insignificance of the flesh. Of course, many got sick and soon found themselves in one of the chairs. Quick…find s o m e f r e s h a i r o n t h e church's terrace! A stunning eagle-eye view over the mari- na and town is thrilling – an Instagrammer's dream shot opportunity. Other impressive churches are found within the castle walls. Built in 1564, all that remains of the Church of St. Peter of Pantaniello is the central space and its six a r c h e d w i n d o w s . B u t t h e views…worthy of contempla- tion and reflection. The hum- ble Church of Holy Mary of Grace was constructed in the 1500s for Ischia's fisher- men. A spectacular sea view offers cool breeze and deep thought. Several others await y o u r v i s i t , i n c l u d i n g t h e b o m b e d - o u t r e m a i n s o f t h e C a t h e d r a l o f O u r Lady of the Assumption. Her beautiful walls with the sky for a ceiling still vibrate with life hosting concerts, theatre, film screenings, and d r e a m w e d d i n g s . T h e remains of an earlier church beneath house several mag- nificent ancient frescoes. N u m e r o u s s p e c t a c u l a r paths, lush gardens, and daz- zling viewpoints are laid out along the suggested tour. F r o m t h e h i g h e s t p o i n t s , panoramic scenes of Ischia Ponte, Mount Epomeo, and the Ischian landscape trans- fix the imagination. The Bal- cony of the Temple, where a pagan temple once stood, g u i d e s t h e e y e a l o n g t h e coast, while walking the Sun Route reveals vast ocean views amongst olive, fig, and pomegranate trees. Less uplifting but signifi- c a n t i s t h e B o u r b o n Prison established in 1823. Important political prisoners of Italy's 19th-century unifi- cation movement were incar- cerated among the criminals h e r e . A f o r e b o d i n g a n d s e v e r e p l a c e , i t ' s e v i d e n t prison life was harsh. A small museum of torture features d e v i c e s d a t i n g b a c k 5 0 0 years. Squeamish or not, it's a disturbing observation. Refreshment and stun- ning views await the tired tourist at two cafés within the castle walls. You'll pay for the location, but the food and drink are good. Magnificent vistas of land and sea with a cool drink in hand foster reflection on the thousand years of history at your feet. It's worth it: the experience is priceless. Famous landmark and tourist destination Aragonese Castle or Castello Aragonese located near Ischia Island © Ig0rzh | Dreamstime.com PAULA REYNOLDS Castello Aragonese: Ischia's historical heart ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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