L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano B resaola della V a l t e l l i n a IGP, a delicacy hailing from the p i c t u r e s q u e Alpine valleys of Italy, mirrors our mountains' rich culinary heritage. This cylindrical cured meat product, derived from beef, is a staple of Italian cuisine, celebrated for its bright red color, delicate aroma, and pleasantly savory taste. T h e s t o r y o f b r e s a o l a d e l l a V a l t e l l i n a I G P i s deeply intertwined with the h i s t o r y o f t h e A l p i n e region. The technique of preserving meat by salting and drying it has been prac- ticed in these valleys since t h e e a r l y M i d d l e A g e s : indeed, this method was not only used for beef but also sheep and game meat, mak- ing it a widespread practice across the entire Alpine arc. While it is today consid- e r e d a t y p i c a l p r o d u c t o f Italy, the origins of bresao- l a c a n b e t r a c e d b a c k t o Switzerland, particularly to the Canton of Grisons and Valais. The winds that blow t h r o u g h t h e E n g a d i n e , descending from the Spluga pass, are ideal for drying meat, and they blow equally in Valtellina and Swiss terri- tory: this geographical con- nection played a significant role in the development and refinement of bresaola pro- duction. In the beginning, mak- ing bresaola was a simple, rustic process: after debon- i n g t h e b e e f t h i g h s a n d sprinkling them with salt and spices, the meat pieces were hung from the ceilings of huts to dry for 60 days. O v e r t i m e , t h e p r o c e s s became more sophisticated, leading to the construction o f d e d i c a t e d f a c i l i t i e s for bresaola making. Cer- tainly, this evolution in the production process is a sign of local people's ingenuity and adaptability, but also of the way they were able to r e f i n e a n d i m p r o v e t h e i r methods while staying true to their culinary tradition. T h e n a m e " b r e s a o l a " itself goes hand in hand with l o c a l l o r e a n d h e r i t a g e . CHIARA D'ALESSIO But the history of bresao- l a i s a l s o t h e h i s t o r y o f the people of Valtellina: for centuries, the production o f t h i s c u r e d m e a t w a s a f a m i l y t h i n g , w i t h e a c h household producing their own bresaola, often accord- i n g t o t h e i r o w n s e c r e t recipes. It was to be this way until the 19th century when the significant development of the food-making industry in Chiavenna gave a sub- stantial boost to bresaola production. This marked the beginning of a new era for this now-popular cold cut, as it slowly began to cross the valley's borders and spread t h r o u g h o u t I t a l y . B y t h e 1960s, bresaola della Valtel- lina had become a beloved delicacy far beyond its place of origin, and its popularity was not only due to its deli- cious taste but also its nutri- tional value. Indeed, bresao- la stands out for its unique sensory, chemical, and phys- ical-chemical characteristics; it is also low in fat and cho- lesterol but high in proteins, i r o n , m i n e r a l s l i k e z i n c , phosphorus, and potassium, as well as vitamins, includ- ing B vitamins, vitamin E and niacin. All this makes it a healthy choice for those who enjoy a lighter diet, yet do not want to compromise on taste. B u t t h e s e c r e t o f t h i s healthy cold cut is in its pro- duction process, a careful balance of tradition and cli- matic conditions: the meat is matured in specially air-con- ditioned rooms, ensuring optimal air exchange at an a v e r a g e t e m p e r a t u r e between 12 and 18°C. This slow and gradual process, which includes drying time, takes between 4 to 8 weeks, depending on the size of the p r o d u c t a n d m a r k e t demands. To fully appreci- ate the flavor of bresaola, it is recommended to consume it in thin slices, about 1-1.5 millimeters thick. Besides being good for you, bresaola della Valtelli- n a i s a l s o a v e r s a t i l e ingredient that allows for imaginative culinary combi- nations: it can be used to create refined dishes, quick a n d e a s y a p p e t i z e r s o r snacks — sandwiches made w i t h b r e s a o l a d r e s s e d i n e x t r a v i r g i n o l i v e o i l a n d lemon are a favorite of mine — and its unique taste and t e x t u r e m a k e i t a p e r f e c t a d d i t i o n t o a v a r i e t y o f r e c i p e s , f r o m t r a d i t i o n a l Italian dishes to innovative culinary creations. Last but not least, since 1996 the authentic bresaola della Valtellina has been guaranteed by the communi- t y t r a d e m a r k P r o t e c t e d G e o g r a p h i c a l I n d i c a - t i o n ( P G I ) . T h i s m a r k i s used exclusively by produc- ers in the Province of Son- drio who adhere to strict p r o d u c t i o n r e g u l a t i o n s . The Consortium for the Pro- tection of the name Bresaola della Valtellina was created in 1998 and has been safe- guarding and enhancing this refined product since, pro- moting its image, and pro- tecting it from imitation and counterfeiting. S o , n e x t t i m e w e f a n c y s o m e t h i n g n i c e b u t n o t - n a u g h t y , l e t ' s h a v e s o m e bresaola — which, inciden- tally, is a staple of Italian summer cuisine: whether enjoyed in a simple antipas- to or as part of a gourmet recipe, this delicious salu- m e b r i n g s a p i e c e o f t h e Alpine valleys to every table, while telling us about the p o w e r o f t r a d i t i o n , t h e importance of regional iden- tity in Italy, and the timeless appeal of good food. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES There are several theories d e s c r i b i n g h o w i t c a m e about: one among them sug- gests it originated from the phrase "sala come brisa," referring to the use of salt in preservation, with the term "brisa" indicating a heavily salted bovine gland in the dialect of Valchiavenna, a v a l l e y n e a r V a l t e l l i n a . A n o t h e r t h e o r y l i n k s t h e n a m e t o t h e t e r m "brasa," meaning embers in the local dialect, as the meat was traditionally dried in rooms heated by braziers f u e l e d w i t h f i r c h a r c o a l , juniper berries, thyme, and bay leaves. Bresaola is a traditional product of Valtellina (Photo: Umbertoleporini/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED The art, history, and cultural significance of Bresaola della Valtellina IGP

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