L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 24 2023 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano W hen plan- n i n g a t r i p t o L i g u r i a , t h e f i v e villages of Cinque Terre most famously spring to mind. But with nearly 2.4 million peo- ple wandering through these towns every year, it can make the scenery a little less enjoy- able. Liguria's long stretch of coastline from the French border to Tuscany encom- passes so much more than just these five hot spots, and w i t h t o w n s r a n g i n g f r o m 1,000 to 30,000 residents, there is a wealth of history, charm, delicious cuisine, and sea views waiting to be dis- covered that is also free of intense crowds. T h e R i v i e r a d i Ponente extends from Ven- t i m i g l i a h e a d i n g e a s t t o Genoa, home to medieval vil- l a g e s t h a t d e s e r v e t o b e explored. Cervo is one such stop in the Imperia province. The town's original inhabi- tants were the Ingauni, a pre- historic people who lived in the region from the Iron Age and during the Roman era. Later in the 16th and 17th c e n t u r i e s , C e r v o b e c a m e known as the home to coral fishermen who explored the C o r s i c a n a n d S a r d i n i a n waters. Unfortunately, pirat- ing also became a problem due to this lucrative trade. Today, the old town is largely unchanged from its medieval structure, so narrow streets must be climbed by foot to reach the top. Once there, the reward is in the incredible views overlooking the sea. San Giovanni church is one o f t h e t o w n ' s c r o w n i n g achievements, also known as dei Corallini because it was built thanks to the con- tributions of the coral fisher- man. Albenga is the modern- d a y n a m e f o r w h a t w a s once Albingaunum, a charm- i n g t o w n i n t h e S a v o n a province that was also found- ed by the Ingauni. It's home to Liguria's oldest, intact building, a baptistry built by the Romans in the 5th centu- r y , a s w e l l a s s e v e r a l m e d i e v a l c a t h e d r a l s a n d churches. Albenga's beaches are within walking distance of the old town, making it a good place for a light dip in the sea. When it comes to food, stop in at a local panifi- cio to try a slice of Liguria's f a m e d o l i v e o i l - d r e n c h e d focaccia for breakfast or as an afternoon snack. Locals are also proud of their produce, including the violet aspara- gus, little trumpet zucchini, spiny artichoke and cuore di b u e t o m a t o . A n a b s o l u t e must-try is the farinata, a Ligurian chickpea flour and olive oil pancake baked in a cast iron pan. In Piazza delle Erbe, Fa Fümme serves up a traditional version of this olive oil-rich delight. The small but well-pre- served village of Noli offers a beautiful view, beach, and nice day's stroll for those looking to avoid larger towns a n d c r o w d s . T h e a r e a i s known for its production of Lumassina white wine and olive oil. It's also home to a rare fishing tradition—the catching of lussi, a small sil- ver fish that swims close to shore and burrows in the sand. Fishermen catch these by trawl, delivering them to the mostly older locals who still love to prepare them as a frittura di pesce—a fried fish dish—called i cicciarelli di Noli in carpione. In this t r a d i t i o n a l p r e p a r a t i o n , the lussi are lightly coated in flour, fried in extra-virgin olive oil, and then covered with an oil and vinegar emul- sion. T h e R i v i e r a d i L e v - ante encompasses the Lig- urian coast from Genoa down to the border of Tuscany. Recco sits just west of the P o r t o f i n o p e n i n s u l a , a n d while known for its famous PGI status-protected focac- cia—two thin, crispy layers of bread sandwiching the local cheese—it is known for other L i g u r i a n c l a s s i c s a s w e l l , like le troffiette, the semi spi- ral-like pasta traditionally prepared with basil pesto. These were devised as a ver- sion of gnocchi that could be m a d e w i t h o u t p o t a t o . Recco's troffiette are made with hard wheat and semoli- na flours, which give them an extra chewy bite. The name is believed to originate from the word strufuggià, which in l o c a l d i a l e c t e x p l a i n s t h e hand-rolling motion needed to form these little pasta cre- ations. Another famous Lig- urian dish, i pansoti in salsa di noci (local greens-filled pasta in walnut sauce) can be enjoyed here at Ristorante da Lino, where the pasta is made from scratch. Chiavari, with around 27,000 residents, offers up j u s t e n o u g h s h o p s a n d r e s t a u r a n t s a l o n g w i t h beaches and easy access to other towns along the Riviera d i L e v a n t e t o m a k e i t a worthwhile stop. With its arcade walkways, it offers a little piece of Genoa with a m o r e m a n a g e a b l e s m a l l - town feel. Wander around the avenue Enrico Millo just outside the city center and take in the old noble palaces, some of which have since been turned into hotels. Chi- a v a r i i s a l s o k n o w n for macramé, a method of making intricate patterns by weaving and knotting threads and fabrics. The tradition originated here in the 14th century when sailors brought the art of the merletto del mare—lace of the sea—to town. Eventually, Chiavari's women took over the craft and opened a school dedicat- ed to its teaching from 1960 to 1989. The town's name is also assigned to a dessert, la torta di Chiavari, a sponge cake topped with zabaione, whipped cream, and crushed a m a r e t t i , a n d b o r d e r e d by langue de chat cookies. But whether its namesake comes from the town itself, or was simply enjoyed by the powerful noble Fieschi family who ruled the region during t h e M i d d l e A g e s r e m a i n s unclear. For a taste of a different Ligurian dolce, head east from La Spezia, closing in on the way to the Tuscan border, a n d y o u ' l l e n d u p i n Sarzana, a town nestled in the heart of the Magra Valley. Those who want to try the l o c a l p a s t r y s h o u l d l o o k for Pasticceria Gemmi to s a m p l e t h e s p o n g a t a (or spungata) and the focac- cia sarzanese. The former c o n s i s t s o f t w o l a y e r s o f shortcrust pastry sandwich- ing an apple or fig jam filling with dried fruit, nuts, and s p i c e s . S o m e b e l i e v e t h e recipe has Roman origins, while newer ideas suggest that it was brought in by the Jewish community. The focaccia sarzanese is a sweet hazelnut and walnut bread usually eaten around Christmas. Enriched with olive oil and white wine, the bread is punched up with the M e d i t e r r a n e a n f l a v o r s o f Zibibbo and anise seed. Travel to Cinque Terre to get your fix of photo ops—as well as a dose of elbowing your way through the masses of travelers. But you'll proba- bly be happy to have stopped f i r s t i n t h e s e o f t e n - o v e r - l o o k e d L i g u r i a n t o w n s t o experience culture, sea, and sun-drenched Ligurian cook- ing—at a more relaxed pace and without the crowds. JESSICA S. LEVY The Medieval historical center of Albenga, on Liguria's Riviera di Ponente (Photo: Xantana/Dreamstime) Small-town Ligurian charm: exploring the culture and food of lesser-known villages ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS PEOPLE ACTIVITIES

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