L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21 2023 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano T h e M a r e m m a , south of Grosse- t o , c o m e s t o a n a r t y e n d i n C a p a l b i o , a medieval citadel that graces even more Southern Tuscany. Its undulating hills and rose- mary-scented scrubland run down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Two lines of defensive walls encircle the scenic village: centuries ago, they were built to protect the locals against pirate attacks. My day begins on these a n c i e n t w a l l s t h a t o f f e r a breathtaking ocean view. I slip into the charming Borgo soon after dawn. The air is balmy all around. There's an atmosphere of quiet waiting for the splendor of the rising sun. A mysterious white mar- ble head of Emperor Hadrian embedded in the wall sud- denly peeps out. I enter the walled village through the main entrance d o o r , P o r t a S e n e s e . Valentina Mecacci is my tour guide from Le Orme, a cooperative of professionals providing guiding services for any excursion in the Tuscan Maremma. C a p a l b i o i s a m a z e o f magic alleys. After enjoying a delicious breakfast in a local cafeteria, we visit the San Nicola Church, which com- bines Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architectur- al elements. The side chapels house frescoes of the Sienese a n d U m b r i a n - L a t i u m schools. In front of the piaz- z a , a n i m p o s i n g f o r t r e s s , t h e R o c c a A l d o b r a n - desca, dominates the Borgo and comes complete with P a l a z z o C o l l a c c h i o n i , w h o s e i n t e r i o r s i n t e r e s t opera lovers. The fortepiano Conrad Graf sits there. Giaco- mo Puccini loved to play it as a guest of the Collacchioni family. They say the great composer composed the last part of his unfinished opera Turandot in these rooms. The name of Capalbio is d e r i v e d f r o m t w o L a t i n words, Caput Albus or White Head. "Legend has it that the regent of the castle suffered f r o m a l b i n i s m , " e x p l a i n s Valentina. An official docu- ment, Bolla Leonino-Car- olingia, mentioned the vil- lage for the first time in 805 when Charlemagne donated it to the Abbey of the Tre F o n t a n e n e a r R o m e . T h e possession was confirmed in 1161 by Pope Alexander III. Later the castle and the first nucleus of the citadel were under the Aldobrandeschi f a m i l y , w h o l a t e r h a n d e d them over to the Orsini fami- ly. In 1416, the Republic of Siena became the ruler of Capalbio. In the mid-1800s, a brig- a n d , D o m e n i c o T i b u r z i , raged in the scrubland until 23 October 1896, when the carabinieri shot him to death. They had been chasing him for decades. He was a primi- tive rebel and a criminal, some modern Robin Hood who took from the rich to give to the poor. In his raids, he emptied barns and stole livestock which he gave to those in need. The photogra- pher Ausonio Ulivi immortal- ized his dead body in brigan- d i s h c l o t h e s o u t s i d e t h e C a p a l b i o c e m e t e r y . T h e y buried his half body inside the consecrated ground and the other half outside. I am spending a blissful w e e k i n C a p a l b i o , a n d t h e O r a t o r i o d e l l a P r o v v i d e n z a is worth a visit. The chapel owes its name to a miraculous image, the Madonna della Provvi- denza, to which the Capal- biese people are profoundly devoted. Legend has it that whenever the painting was moved to another church, the canvas mysteriously returned to its place. The Borgo is rich in histo- ry. A very noted literary crit- ic, Alberto Asor Rosa, dubbed Capalbio "The Little Athens" for its remarkable artistic and cultural development, pri- marily because in the 70s and 80s, it became the most elit- ist and intellectual vacation spot. "Capalbio is a place of tranquillity and relaxation," Asor Rosa used to say. He knew by heart "the expanses of the forest, meadows and dunes which reach the sea." T h e l o n g w i n d s w e p t C a p a l b i o b e a c h e s r u n f r o m t h e b o r d e r w i t h t h e l a n d s o f O r b e t e l l o t o t h e extreme north of the Lazio region. The seawater is crys- tal-clear. The place is ideal MARIELLA RADAELLI Capalbio at sunset (Photo: Stevanzz/Dreamstime) C a p a l b i o , " T h e L i t t l e A t h e n s " under the Tuscan sun ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS PEOPLE ACTIVITIES A dream-like installation in the Tarot Garden. Its creator was French-American artist Niki de Saint-Phalle (Photo: Roberto Nencini/Dreamstime) CONTINUED TO PAGE 22

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