L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano M y vocal coach once told me that the danger of being a singer lies in the temptation to indulge in late-night food- based rendezvous with col- leagues after performances: from my own humble experi- ence, I can attest to the truth of this statement. After the curtain would close and the applause fade, it was common for me, fellow performers, and even our maestros, to gather at our tenor's home for impromptu cene di mezzanotte to relax together after a performance. Our go-to recipes for these midnight feasts were two: pane cunzato, a delightfully rich but simple baked sand- wich and a staple of Sicilian cuisine, and the ever-reliable spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino. Today, we'll delve deeper into the history of the latter—a dish as simple as it is complex, as humble as it is royal. This simple yet flavorful pasta was born in the sun- d r e n c h e d g r o v e s o f Campania, where it was commonly made by the wives of farmers. In all his humble- ness, it is a symbol of the resourcefulness and culinary ingenuity of these women who, with easy access to gar- lic, olive oil, and chili pepper, created something that not only satisfied hunger but also delighted the palate: a dish that captured the essence of I t a l i a n c u i s i n e — s i m p l e ingredients, masterfully combined. T h e h i s t o r y o f o u r spaghetti aglio, olio e peper- oncino, however, didn't end in the idyllic olive groves where it began but moved swiftly into the lavish court o f N a p l e s w h e r e , w i t h a touch of royal grandeur, it was alternatively known as v e r m i c e l l i a l l a Borbonica. The name like- ly originated from the inven- tion of the four-pronged fork by chamberlain of the court of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon Gennaro Spadaccini, in CHIARA D'ALESSIO part of the diet. By the way, Spadaccini was also a writer and poet: he wrote a number of books and poems, includ- ing a text on the history of the fork, and he is remem- bered as a brilliant inventor and a man of culture. But let's go back to our spaghetti aglio, olio e peper- oncino... In a world where complex- ity often garners attention, their true beauty lies in their stunning simplicity. This dish relies on just three primary ingredients: garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper. Yet, within this very simplicity, we can find the universe of flavors, textures, and aromas that makes it such a beloved clas- sic. As it often is when cooking Italian, the choice of ingredi- ents is key. Let's take olive oil, for instance. While extra virgin olive oil is the go-to c h o i c e f o r m a n y m o d e r n recipes, the original recipe for our spaghetti calls, in fact, for simple olive oil: this pref- erence was likely influenced by the dish's origins among farmers, who had easy access to freshly pressed olive oil and used whatever was more available and cheaper for them. From a more structur- al point of view, the oil not only adds richness but also serves as a vehicle to infuse the garlic and chili flavors, creating a harmonious blend. Garlic, we can say, is the soul of this dish, providing a vigorous taste that comple- ments the richness of the olive oil. If you want to truly up the game of your spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino, look no further than garlic from Valle dell'Ufita in the Avellino area, which is con- sidered optimal for its unique flavor profile: this garlic is less pungent than its coun- terparts, offering a subtle sweetness that really helps the dish reach a perfect bal- ance Chili pepper adds a zesty kick, rounding out the recipe and adding a layer of com- plexity; while the type of chili used can vary, Italian chili p e p p e r , p r e f e r a b l y f r o m Calabria, is often recom- m e n d e d f o r a n a u t h e n t i c touch. The spiciness can be adjusted according to per- sonal preference, making the dish versatile and adaptable. And while everyone agrees on the three previous ingre- dients, there is a tad more debate when it comes to the pasta we should use. Indeed, this very topic has been a subject of much discussion among culinary historians and enthusiasts alike. While spaghetti is the most com- m o n l y u s e d s h a p e t o d a y , some argue that linguine or vermicelli were the original choices. J e a n n e C a r ò l a Francesconi, author of the famous cookbook La Cucina Napoletana, even suggests that tagliatelle could have been the first pasta used. In c a s e s , l i k e t h i s , t h e r i g h t answer may lie in our per- sonal tastes: perhaps we should just try them all and p i c k t h e o n e w e l o v e t h e most. Personally, I find ver- micelli are the best, but lin- guine come a close second! Over the years, spaghetti a g l i o , o l i o e p e p e r o n c i n o have seen numerous varia- tions that reflect the culinary creativity and resourceful- ness of Italian cooks. Some recipes include anchovies sauteed in oil, adding a layer of umami to the dish. Others incorporate breadcrumbs to better amalgamate the ingre- dients, creating a more cohe- sive flavor profile and older recipes even used black pep- per instead of - or alongside - c h i l i p e p p e r . A n o t h e r i n t r i g u i n g v a r i a t i o n i s spaghetti alle vongole fujute ( l i t e r a l l y , s p a g h e t t i w i t h "escaped clams"), a clam-fla- vored spaghetti that intrigu- i n g l y c o n t a i n s n o a c t u a l clams. This is a very curious recipe because, back in the day, the "clam flavor" was given by sauteing in olive oil ( a n d t h e n r e m o v i n g ) s e a stones, then adding the rest of the ingredients to the oil. Today, the "illusion" of clams is given by lashings of fresh parsley, which is a must for any good pasta alle vongole. And to conclude, a bit of literature. The ingredients in spaghetti aglio, olio e peper- oncino are just like charac- ters in a story: each of them contributes, with its unique qualities, to the creation of a dish that is far greater than the sum of its parts. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES 1770. The four-pronged fork, which is now the standard fork used around the world, was more efficient at spear- ing and holding food than t h e p r e v i o u s l y u s e d t w o - pronged fork, whose concept dates back to Ancient Greece and the Byzantine Empire. Italy became the fork's true h o m e s i n c e t h e e a r l i e s t times: the peninsula, with its historical ties to the Eastern Roman Empire, was quick to adopt this utensil, especially as pasta became an integral Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino are popular across Italy but were born in Campania (Photo: Alexpro9500) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino: simplicity makes it perfect

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