L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19 2023 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano V i c o d e l G a r g a n o , i n t h e F o g g i a p r o v i n c e o f P u g l i a , i s t h e t y p e o f p l a c e w h e r e t i m e seemingly stands still, some- thing to truly appreciate in the often stressful hustle of m o d e r n - d a y l i f e . W i t h a modest population of around 8,100 residents, 1,800 of whom dwell in the ancient picturesque borough, Vico del Gargano perches at an altitude of 462 meters above sea level, and can truly be a serene retreat for those seek- ing a brush with history, cul- ture, and nature. The name "Vico" derives from the Latin word vicus, meaning a group of houses or a village, a humble nod to its modest beginnings. The village's origins date back to 9 7 0 A D w h e n i t e m e r g e d after the expulsion of the Saracens from Gargano by S l a v i c m e r c e n a r i e s employed by the Byzantines. The leader of the Slavs was awarded the lands they liber- ated, subsequently gathering the residents into a village, m a r k i n g t h e i n c e p t i o n o f Vico. As history trudged along, the Normans, upon conquer- ing Gargano in the 11th cen- tury, erected the first castle in Vico, further fortifying the v i l l a g e ' s s t r a t e g i c i m p o r - tance; a notable highlight o c c u r r e d i n 1 2 4 0 w h e n E m p e r o r F r e d e r i c k I I o f Swabia expanded Vico's cas- tle, bolstering its defense mechanism. The fortification w a s f u r t h e r e n h a n c e d i n 1292 by Teodisco de Cuneo, rendering Vico with a formi- dable defense system of walls g u a r d e d b y a b o u t t w e n t y towers. These fortifications bear witness to the tumul- tuous yet glorious past that s h a p e d V i c o a n d i t s s u r - roundings. Indeed, Vico del Gargano is an architectural sight to behold: carved from Monte Sant'Angelo stone, the same that cradles its homes, the village stands as a poetic jux- t a p o s i t i o n b e t w e e n t h e Foresta Umbra and the s e a . I t s h i s t o r i c c e n t e r , although in a state of mild n e g l e c t w i t h a c l u s t e r o f semi-abandoned buildings, exudes an old-world charm with its beautiful doorways, iron gates, emblems, stair- cases, and chimneys, each narrating a tale of long-gone eras. Among the many church- es, notable ones include the Matrice with its stone por- tal and eleven internal altars, the San Giuseppe church in the Terra neighborhood, which houses a wooden stat- ue of the Cristo Morto, Dead Christ, and the 13th-century San Marco church. Outside the walls, the Santa Maria degli Angeli church along with the Capuchin Convent and San Pietro on Mount Tabor, each with its long history, will certainly attract the spiritually inclined. The village's civil architec- ture isn't far behind in nar- rating tales of the past: the walls, in various sections, are incorporated into homes, a d e s i g n b y T e o d i s c o d e Cuneo dating back to 1292. The castle with its quadran- gular shape showcases traces of various ownerships and styles from the Normans to t h e A r a g o n e s e , a n d t h e P a l a z z o d e l l a B e l l a , a curious neogothic reinter- pretation of the Florentine Palazzo Vecchio, is a quirkier architectural attraction. But Vico del Gargano is not just a historic wonder, i t ' s a g a t e w a y t o n a t u r a l beauty. A short drive will l e a d y o u t o C a l e n e l l a Beach, a serene coastline that has retained the purity and enjoyability unique to G a r g a n o . T h e F o r e s t a Umbra, a magnificent green lung stretching over 4,000 hectares, pairs with the blue lung of Calenella, forming p a r t o f t h e G a r g a n o National Park: here one can enjoy an incredible vari- ety of flora and fauna, with equipped picnic areas, and well-marked trails. Vico del Gargano is also rich in traditions, starting from the celebration of its patron saint, San Valenti- no, on February 14, when a long procession traverses the village, fully adorned with oranges and lemons, or the emotionally stirring Messa Pazza on Good Friday, and the theatrical showcase of the Estate Vichese, in July. Last but not least, we must m e n t i o n V i c o ' s c u l i n a r y scene: here Gargano's spe- cialty, magliatello, or kid meat, is a must-try. The har- monious blend of fish with vegetables, a tradition stem- ming from the age-old rela- tionship between sea and countryside, and the unique ostia piena, a crunchy con- coction of fruit, almonds, and honey, promise a gastronom- ic delight that can make all palates happy. As you stroll through the village, you can add a sweet note to your stay by purchasing the famous citrus fruits of Vico directly from the farmers. T he tradition of I dolci dei Morti or " S w e e t s o f t h e D e a d " i n S i c i l y and other parts of Italy is observed during the festivities of All Saints' Day and the commemoration of the deceased on November 1st and 2nd. These two days are marked by the prepara- tion and offering of dolci dei morti, encompassing various r e c i p e s a n d v a r i a t i o n s o f cookies, pastries, nougats, a n d o t h e r t r e a t s t h a t a r e either prepared at home or purchased from bakeries to b e g i f t e d t o r e l a t i v e s a n d children . The roots of this tradition are traced back to Greco- Roman culture, with an ancient pre-Christian belief later adopted by Catholic tra- dition, especially in Italy: the belief holds that on the night between November 1st and 2nd, the souls of the depart- e d v i s i t t h e i r l i v i n g l o v e d ones, who then leave a table set with sweets to warmly welcome them . Specifically, in Sicily, the Festa dei Morti, or "Feast of the Dead" on November 2nd, is celebrated by preparing special sweets called ossa di morto (bones of the dead) d u e t o t h e i r b o n e - l i k e a p p e a r a n c e : t h e s e h a v e a u n i q u e a s p e c t a n d a v e r y c r u n c h y t e x t u r e a n d a r e made from simple ingredi- ents like flour, water, sugar, flavored with cinnamon and c l o v e s . A l s o k n o w n a s moscardini, they are often placed in a cannistru, a bas- ket of sweets that children find under their beds on the morning of November 2nd, as gifts from the departed loved ones . Other traditional Sicilian sweets for the commemora- tion of the deceased include tetù, soft and porous cookies with a glazed surface flavored with cocoa, lemon, or other ingredients, and the master- piece of Sicilian pastry, frut- ta Martorana. This beauti- f u l s w e e t i s m a d e f r o m a mixture of almond flour and sugar, known as pasta reale, w h i c h i s h a n d - s h a p e d o r molded with the aid of gyp- sum molds to resemble real fruit of various types. The legend behind frutta Mar- torana traces back to the nuns of the convent of Santa M a r i a d e l l ' A m m i r a g l i o i n Palermo, who were the first to craft these artistic sweets with brilliant colors . All these sweets collective- l y f o r m t h e c e s t o d e i morti, a basket of the dead, symbolizing a way to look beyond with no fear and with a pinch of nostalgia, filled with the sweet, affectionate memory of the loved ones who are no longer with us. Traditional "frutta Martorana" is traditional for All Saints and All Souls celebrations (Photo: Antonello Marangi/Dremastime) Vico del Gargano: the old town (Photo: Stefano Valeri/Dreamstime) Sicily and the " Dolci dei Morti" One thousand years of history in Vico del Gargano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE

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