L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19 2023 www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano O c t o b e r : t h e month of Ital- i a n H e r i t a g e , spooks, and ... p u m p k i n s ! Their colors, shapes, and fla- vor, everything about them speak of this beautiful season that has just begun. T h e y a r e s o u b i q u i t o u s that we seldom stop thinking about how they entered our homes and kitchens, and we think of them so much as a symbol of Halloween that we may ignore some of our fall traditions included them, even before we got trick or t r e a t i n g f r o m a c r o s s t h e ocean. Truth is, pumpkins them- s e l v e s a r e a n A m e r i c a n import. The Age of Discov- ery in the 15th century was a period of uncharted adven- tures and newfound hori- zons, and the pumpkin, this humble yet hearty vegetable we all love, was among the treasures brought back from the newly discovered conti- nent. P u m p k i n s e e d s l i k e l y c r o s s e d t h e o c e a n s a n d reached the fertile soils of I t a l y i n t h e 1 6 t h c e n t u r y . Here, in the northern regions of Lombardy and Veneto, the pumpkin found a new home: the temperate climate and fertile plains of these regions provided an ideal growing environment for this New World squash, allowing i t t o t h r i v e a n d f l o u r i s h . S o o n , i t b e c a m e a s t a p l e across our northern regions, a n d t h e n , i t s c u l t i v a t i o n b e c a m e c o m m o n i n o u r South. As the pumpkins grew in a b u n d a n c e , t h e i r s w e e t , e a r t h y f l e s h f o u n d f a v o r a m o n g t h e l o c a l s , w h o explored its culinary versatil- ity in a myriad of dishes that w a r m e d t h e h e a r t h - a n d heart - during the chilly fall and winter months. In Lom- bardy, we find the tortelli di zucca, a true celebration of the harvest, with their sweet and savory filling of pump- kin, mixed with the rich taste of Parmesan, encased in ten- der pasta dough. In Veneto, kitchens respond to the first cold with the soft embrace of pumpkin risotto, a quintes- sential comfort food that brings together the creamy texture of risotto and the s w e e t , d e l i c a t e n o t e s o f pumpkin flesh. The rich culi- nary heritage of E m i l i a - Romagna brings us anoth- er version of tortelli di zucca, while in the South, pumpkin i s f r i e d a n d t h e n d r e s s e d with vinegar and herbs. Outside of the kitchen, pumpkins also found their space in lore and traditions, especially in association with the harvest and the celebra- tions for All Saints and All Souls days. The tradition of c a r v i n g p u m p k i n s t o r e s e m b l e h u m a n f a c e s i s rooted in a primal fear of the u n k n o w n , a n a t t e m p t t o w a r d o f f e v i l s p i r i t s t h a t might roam the land as the veil between worlds thins during this season. Just like in popular Jack O'Lanterns, a candle was placed inside the hollowed-out pumpkin, the eerie glow emanating through the carved visage creating a spectral guardian against malevolent beings. T h i s t r a d i t i o n , p r e v a l e n t a c r o s s t h e P i a n u r a Padana until the mid-20th century, symbolizes a unique blend of pagan and Christian beliefs over the passing of souls during this season, and comes from the very same lore that led to the birth of J a c k O ' L a n t e r n s i n Anglosaxon cultures. The p e o p l e o f A b r u z z o a n d Trentino also like to carve pumpkins and place candles inside them, but this act is m o r e s t r o n g l y a s s o c i a t e d w i t h A l l S o u l s ' D a y , a s pumpkin lanterns are seen a s p o e t i c a n d t o u c h i n g h o m a g e t o t h e d e p a r t e d . T h i s a n c i e n t c u s t o m t i e s back to the belief that peo- ple's souls would roam the E a r t h d u r i n g t h e n i g h t s between the end of October and the beginning of Novem- ber, seeking the places they once loved. The pumpkins, with their mellow candle- light, function as a gentle beacon in the night, a soft glow warming the way home for all the souls. Let's move to the South, more precisely, to the beauti- f u l r e g i o n o f C a l a b r i a where, in the quaint town of Serra San Bruno, a tradition of carving crosses on pump- kins during the Night of Pur- gatory brings us back into a fully Christian world. As the pumpkins stand vigil with their carved crosses, they s e r v e a s a s y m b o l i c w a r d a g a i n s t t h e s o u l s o f t h e damned, again a blend of folklore and religious beliefs. In this tradition, we can see people's communal desire to seek protection, find solace in symbols, and navigate the m y s t e r i e s o f t h e a f t e r l i f e with a mix of faith and folk- l o r e . A s i m i l a r t r a d i t i o n , which also bears the same n a m e , i s a l s o f o u n d i n Puglia, but its meaning is closer to that of the carved pumpkins in the North: leav- ing pumpkins with lighted candles in front of houses is a gesture of hope, a way to provide light for departed souls, ensuring their peace- ful journey to the afterlife. It is lovely to think how a simple, humble vegetable, likely because of its shape a n d t e x t u r e , m a n a g e d t o b e c o m e s u c h a p o i g n a n t r e m i n d e r o f t h e t h i n v e i l between the living and the dead, between this world and the next. With all its simplicity, it symbolized for c e n t u r i e s t h e c o n n e c t i o n between this world and the other, a sign of eternal love, in its purest form. It's easy to see how, at least in some regions of Italy, t h e c o n n e c t i o n b e t w e e n pumpkins and the period of H a l l o w e e n w a s a l r e a d y strong and rooted in history w a y b e f o r e t h e c o u n t r y became "spooky season"- crazy. With the globalization o f H a l l o w e e n t r a d i t i o n s , Italy "discovered" the playful a r t o f c a r v i n g p u m p k i n s , perhaps ignoring old Italians used to do it already. Yet, just like in the US, modern pumpkin carving has little to d o w i t h t h e c u s t o m s s u r - rounding the dead during this season. As the pumpkins are transformed into whim- sical faces and lit from with- i n , t h e y b e c o m e s e a s o n a l decorations and, sometimes, artistic endeavors. Without a doubt, their carving also is, for many families, a moment o f p l a y f u l c o l l a b o r a t i o n between generations and, in this, a symbol of love, just l i k e t h e a n c i e n t c a r v e d pumpkins were. It is nice to see how, in this fascinating interplay of cultural expres- sions, in this funny import from American shores, Italy finds some of its old self, and manages to rediscover a slice of its roots. Pumpkins decorate trulli, in Puglia (LekLek73/Dreamstime) It's pumpkin season: viva la zucca! FRANCESCA BEZZONE LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE TRADITIONS

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