L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30 2023 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano displays over the castle. T a k e t i m e t o v i e w t h e striking Ponte Vecchio from every vantage point as you l e a v e t h e T e r r a . S i g n a g e marks several places where M o n e t s a t t o c r e a t e h i s m a s t e r p i e c e s , a n d a f u n wooden cut-out of the mae- stro sitting in a dingy with easel and brush has been placed in the river, as well. K e e p i n g w i t h t h e M o n e t theme, stop off for a cool t r e a t f r o m G e l a t e r i a Monet just across the road. W h i l e r e f e r e n c e d a s newer, the Borgo is in actu- ality the ancient suburbia of the Terra. After all, build- ing upward can only go so far. A quiet piazza crowned with a fountain is the social centerpiece, along with sev- eral trattorias, bars, a small park, and everyday shops lining the extended side- w a l k s . H e r e , t h e v i l l a g e feels lived-in and pleasant. W h i l e l e s s v e r t i c a l a n d more open than the Terra, t h e r a t h e r s t e e p c o b b l e d passageways are alluring, a mixture of twists and turns t h a t b e g t o b e e x p l o r e d . Enticing alleys, seductive dead ends, and a popula- tion of friendly cats await. S e v e r a l i m p o r t a n t o l d churches are found in Dol- ceacqua, as well, each home vaulted passages known as the caruggi. A rush of cool wine-per- fumed air welcomes as eyes adjust to the low light. The layer upon layer of stone buildings, some as tall as six stories, spill over and into each other, many sup- ported by stone arches and buttresses. The caruggi transform into more tunnel than walk- way, dimly lit by sunlight struggling through narrow p a s s a g e s , s h a d o w s , a n d mystery. It's a bewitching scene! Many still maintain h o m e s w i t h i n t h e T e r r a , along with a nice selection of artisan shops, tiny cafés, a n d a p l e t h o r a o f p o t t e d plants. F o l l o w i n g t h e c a r u g g i u p w a r d l e a d s t o t h e entrance of the Doria Castle ruins. Partially restored yet accommodating, the castle is open for touring. A rea- sonable entrance fee allows discovery of her chaotically rich story. If history is not your cup of tea, the view o v e r D o l c e a c q u a a n d t h e expansive valley alone are worth the effort. An inviting courtyard within the castle i s u t i l i z e d f o r c o n c e r t s , symposiums, and events, w h i l e s u m m e r m o n t h s bring spectacular fireworks to treasured artwork and statues. T h e l a r g e a m o u n t o f e x p l o r a t i o n o n f o o t w i l l unquestionably lead to the need to refresh with food and drink…as if one needed an excuse to experience the local flavors! Enjoy a ruby g l a s s o f f u l l - b o d i e d , f r u i t y R o s s e s e d i D o l - ceacqua DOC, the highly r e s p e c t e d a r o m a t i c r e d wine produced only in this area. Delight in a drizzle of the superior EVO produced i n t h e v a l l e y f r o m h a n d - picked Taggiasca olives, a p r o d u c t t h a t ' s b r o u g h t esteem to the Nervia Valley. Wild game is popular here, along with a small variety of cheeses mainly produced from sheep's milk. Perhaps the most inter- esting local delicacy, how- e v e r , i s t h e d o l c e k n o w n a s m i c h e t t a — s m a l l , sweet brioche-type pastries that come in two shapes. The extended story can be r e a d e l s e w h e r e , b u t i n short: a tyrannical lord in power in the 1300s decries his privilege to bed all peas- ant brides on their wedding n i g h t , b u t o n e b r i d e , t h e d e t e r m i n e d L u c r e z i a , desists. She'd rather die, she does, her enraged hus- band subdues the evil lord, the law is redacted, and the townswomen celebrate by creating the michetta. What does this mean? Succinct- ly, michetta is dialect for a particular female structure. Legend states that, as the v i l l a g e w o m e n m a d e t h e c e l e b r a t o r y t r e a t s , t h e y chanted, "… our michetta, we are giving it to whom we want to". And thus, we understand the elongated shape, as well as the round w o m b s h a p e , o f t h e s e delights found only in Dol- c e a c q u a ! E v e r y A u g u s t 16th, the Feast of Michet- t a r e c a l l s a n d c e l e b r a t e s this 700-year-old story. You might even catch a glimpse o f " t h e l a d y i n w h i t e " , Lucrezia's ghost, in a castle window. Legend, history, beauty, m y s t e r y , m i c h e t t a , a n d m o r e – b e w i t c h i n g a n d admirable is correct, Mr. M o n e t . T h a n k y o u f o r immortalizing lovely Dol- ceacqua. becomes visible, the grace- ful arch framing the river b e l o w . T h e s i g h t i s m e s - merizing — be wary of cars stopped alongside the road for photos and gazing. As Monet said, it's bewitching; go with the enchantment and stay awhile! Fortunate- ly, there are many wonder- ful locally-owned B&Bs to c h o o s e f r o m . P i c k o n e , unpack, and let the discov- eries begin. Dolceacqua's two thou- sand residents live in what could be considered a dual t o w n . A t t h e r o c k y b a s e o f M t . R e b u f f a o u n d e r the castle's watch, the verti- c a l m a z e o f i m p o s s i b l y p i e c e d - t o g e t h e r a n c i e n t buildings is referred to as the Terra, while the newer s i d e a c r o s s t h e r i v e r i s known as Il Borgo. Both a r e i n t r i g u i n g , b u t m o s t visitors are drawn to the T e r r a a n d i t s d r a m a t i c appearance. I t ' s a l m o s t t o o s t o r y - book-perfect. The narrow footpath over the ancient bridge seems like a giant's hand offering passage into the mysterious labyrinth ahead. Linger at the apex of the bridge and enjoy the views before making your way into the narrow path- ways, secretive alleys, and " E v e r y t h i n g i s a d m i r a b l e , a n d e v e r y d a y t h e c o u n t r y s i d e i s more beautiful. I a m b e w i t c h e d b y t h i s land." Claude Monet, the beloved French impression- i s t , k n e w h e ' d s t u m b l e d upon a gem when he first encountered Dolceacqua i n t h e s u m m e r o f 1 8 8 3 . Captivated, he returned in early 1884 where for three m o n t h s h e w a s b a s e d i n nearby Bordighera. Fre- quenting tiny Dolceacqua, Monet painted four impres- sionistic perspectives of the village and her enchanting 5 0 0 - y e a r - o l d b r i d g e – the Ponte Vecchio. As if the spell has yet to be bro- k e n , t h i s c h a r m i n g m e d i e v a l v i l l a g e i s l i t t l e c h a n g e d ; t h e r e n d i t i o n s appear as if painted only yesterday. Located in the Val Ner- via only five miles inland from Liguria's lush Riviera di Ponente, Dolceacqua isn't far from an impressive list of heavy-hitter resort destinations. With the likes of Sanremo, Genoa, Finale Ligure, as well as nearby Nice and Monaco, for com- p e t i t i o n , D o l c e a c q u a ' s charms draw a steady, even if less jam-packed, stream o f v i s i t o r s . T h e r e a r e n o sparkling resorts, trendy designer shops, or Miche- lin-starred restaurants – so what's the draw? For those s e e k i n g a s l o w e d p a c e a m o n g s t m e d i e v a l a l l u r e wrapped in a pristine nat- ural setting, the enchant- ments are plenty. G e t t i n g t o D o l c e a c q u a from the coast is easy. By car, a pleasant inland drive along state and provincial r o a d s a f f o r d s a n a r t i s t i c first impression. The two- lane road uncoils its wind- i n g c u r v e s a s t h e t e r r a i n f l a t t e n s i n t o t h e N e r v i a River Valley when, unex- pectedly, the 12th centu- ry Doria Castle and her attendant tumble of ancient b u i l d i n g s a p p e a r — i t ' s breathtaking. With hardly a m o m e n t t o r e c o v e r , t h e s t r i k i n g o l d h u m p - b a c k bridge adjacent to the castle PAULA REYNOLDS Dolceacqua: the parish church under the blue sky of Liguria (Photo: Rostislav Glinsky/Dreamstime) Dolceacqua: Liguria's picture-perfect village ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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