L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano produce, the quality of hero- ic wines is often unparal- l e l e d , e n r i c h e d b y b o t h unique terroir and microcli- mates. As we said, in Italy heroic vineyards are present from North to South. In Abruzzo, where viticulture has a rich history dating back to the 1300s, approximately 300 hectares of vineyards thrive above the 500-meter altitude mark. In Calabria, where vine cultivation originates in the times of Magna Graecia, the majority of heroic vine- yards is concentrated along the picturesque Costa Viola. Liguria, a region known for its ancient connections with viticulture, boasts over 2000 hectares of heroic vineyards, often perched on steep ter- races overlooking the Liguri- a n S e a . I n L o m b a r d y , heroic vineyards are pre- d o m i n a n t l y f o u n d i n t h e mountainous areas of Valca- monica and Valtellina, while in Piedmont, a place where viticulture traces back to pre- R o m a n a n d R o m a n e r a s , h e r o i c v i n e y a r d s a r e a m i n o r i t y , y e t p r e s e n t . Trentino Alto Adige is known for its steep-sloped vineyards, many of which are a l s o l o c a t e d a t a l t i t u d e s exceeding 500 meters. Sici- l y s t a n d s o u t w i t h t h r e e limited, but there is a silver lining, too, because more m a n u a l a n d t r a d i t i o n a l methods encourage the growth of sustainable farming prac- tices. And we shouldn't for- get that the very characteris- t i c s m a k i n g t h e s e w i n e s "heroic" also make them spe- cial to the palate and to viti- cultural practice: high alti- t u d e s , f o r i n s t a n c e , contribute to a unique set of climatic conditions, with sig- nificant temperature varia- tions between day and night t h a t a r e i n s t r u m e n t a l i n developing grapes' complex f l a v o r s a n d m a i n t a i n i n g acidity. Similarly, the isola- tion of vineyards on small islands undoubtedly intro- duces logistical challenges but, at the same time, the presence of the sea affects the mineral profile of the grapes and promotes organic farming practices through reduced disease prevalence. T e r r a c e d c u l t i v a t i o n , anciently used to combat soil erosion and maximize land use on steep slopes, creates diverse microclimates within the same vineyard, which means that different types of grapes can grow and thrive in the same area. Despite the smaller yields these extreme conditions m a j o r r e g i o n s p r a c t i c i n g heroic viticulture: Mount Etna, the Aeolian Islands, and Pantelleria, each facing substantial challenges due to their unique terrains. Valle d'Aosta, despite recent set- backs due to vine diseases, features widespread viticul- t u r e a n d r u g g e d t e r r a i n p u n c t u a t e d b y m o u n t a i n chains, which makes it a true stronghold of heroic viticul- ture. The challenges of produc- ing heroic wines are formi- dable, and they go from deal- i n g w i t h t h e p h y s i c a l l y d e m a n d i n g n a t u r e o f t h e work to the unpredictability of climatic conditions and w a t e r s u p p l y . E c o n o m i c investment is substantial, as establishing and maintaining vineyards in such demand- ing locations often requires considerable resources. But heroic viticulture, in Italy and around the world, has t h e r e m a r k a b l e m e r i t o f bringing together sustain- ability and cultural preserva- tion, with winegrowers act- ing as stewards of the land: they maintain biodiversity, uphold ancient wine-grow- i n g t r a d i t i o n s , a n d c o n - tribute to their communities' cultural heritage, with their wines being a symbol of their passion and perseverance. S i c i l y ; f r o m t h e t e r r a c e d vineyards of Valtellina and C i n q u e T e r r e t o t h e windswept islands of Pantel- leria and Salina; from the rugged terrains of Irpinia to the alpine slopes of Merano in Trentino-Alto Adige. The peculiar, and at times harsh, elements typical of heroic viticulture mean that t h e p r o d u c t i o n o f h e r o i c w i n e s f a c e s c o n s i d e r a b l e challenges, from the physical d e m a n d s o f t h e t e r r a i n , which limit mechanization a n d n e c e s s i t a t e m a n u a l labor, to the small and often f r a g m e n t e d s i z e o f v i n e - y a r d s . S u c h c h a l l e n g e s require significant economic investment to either main- tain traditional practices or i n n o v a t e w i t h i n t h e c o n - straints of modern viticul- ture. Climatic conditions and water availability can also be a challenge, and the diversity of grape varieties, coupled with the vineyards' locations, can make wine production even more diffi- cult. For islands, issues are intensified by the significant salinity of the environment, which uniquely influences the terroir. Heroic vineyards necessi- t a t e a l a b o r - i n t e n s i v e approach to viticulture, as mechanization is severely T he world of wine- m a k i n g n e v e r fails to surprise. After wines aged under seawater, of which we spoke in these very pages a few months ago, it's now time to meet heroic wines. I n t h e i r n a m e , h e r o i c w i n e s p a y t r i b u t e t o t h e extraordinary efforts and dedication of winegrowers who cultivate grapes under challenging conditions, far from conventional viticulture n o r m s . T h e y e m b o d y t h e spirit and resilience of viti- c u l t u r e p r a c t i c e d u n d e r exceptionally difficult condi- tions, such as steep terrains, high altitudes, and isolated locations. B u t " h e r o i c w i n e " i s n ' t simply a poetical moniker, it's an actual classification recognized and supported by C E R V I M ( C e n t r e f o r Research, Studies, Protec- tion, Coordination, and Pro- motion of Mountain Viticul- t u r e ) , a n o r g a n i z a t i o n dedicated to the acknowledg- ment and legislative protec- tion of these distinctive vine- yards. Italy itself officially recognized the importance of heroic wines in July 2020, when a significant decree w a s e n a c t e d t o p r o v i d e greater protection and val- orization to these viticul- tures, as well as reflect their i m m e n s e v a l u e t o I t a l y ' s wine heritage. Of course, not all vine- yards can claim to be "hero- ic," because there are specific characteristics they must sat- isfy. They must be on slopes exceeding a 30% gradient, or at altitudes surpassing 500 m e t e r s a b o v e s e a l e v e l , which introduces a set of unique microclimatic condi- tions. They can also develop o n t e r r a c e s a n d s t e e p grades, a significant chal- lenge to the use of traditional cultivation techniques. Vine- y a r d s c a n b e h e r o i c a l s o w h e n l o c a t e d o n s m a l l islands, where isolation and environmental factors can make viticulture more com- plex. Heroic viticulture is pre- sent in many regions of the world, including Italy, of course, where it stretches from the northern regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia on the Karst Plateau to the fiery landscapes of Mount Etna in FRANCESCA BEZZONE A bottle of red. Heroic wines are produced across Italy, from North to South (Photo: Paulgreacaud/Dreamstime) Did you know that wines can be "heroic"? WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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