L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano W h o s a y s t h a t p a s t a a l pomodor o i s b o r - ing? The most iconic Italian dish, made with the sim- plest, cheapest, and most available ingredients you can think of, may not strike for creativity, I give you that. But it remains one of the most comforting foods I can think of, along with Eng- land's bangers and mash— and anything with loads of cheese, if you ask me. But in Naples, which is also its birthplace, pasta al pomodoro gets an interest- ing twist, one that is at once i n c r e d i b l y s i m p l e a n d incredibly effective in trans- forming this humble, every- d a y f o o d i n t o s o m e t h i n g truly luscious. Let me introduce you to pasta allo scarpariello, a recipe that speaks volumes a b o u t t h e i n g e n u i t y a n d resourcefulness of Naples' culinary tradition. It is a s i m p l e d i s h m a d e w i t h pasta, tomato sauce, garlic, olive oil, basil, and a gener- o u s a m o u n t o f g r a t e d cheese, typically Parmigiano or Pecorino, which is not used as a topping, but as an ingredient of the sauce itself. A bit of history The origins of this dish, whose name translates as "the shoemaker's pasta," are rooted in the lively streets of the Spanish Quarters, where t h e s h o e m a k e r s , o r scarpari, once thrived. Its creation tells a story of sim- plicity, necessity, and culi- nary acumen: let us see why. The recipe is believed to have been born out of the shoemakers' community, in a time (probably the 19th century) when ingredients were often limited to what w a s r e a d i l y a v a i l a b l e o r received in exchange for ser- vices. Traditionally, it was prepared with leftovers from t h e S u n d a y m e a l , w h i c h often consisted of carne al sugo (meat stew): what was left of the sauce turned into the starting point for Mon- day's lunch, a traditional c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f t h e b e s t cucina povera, where noth- ing would go wasted. The sauce was then mixed with generous amounts of grat- ed cheese—a product, we said, often given as a form of payment by customers who c o u l d n ' t a f f o r d t o p a y scarpari with money. This is why, originally, pasta allo scarpariello was a Monday dish. Over time, it trans- f o r m e d f r o m a m e a l o f n e c e s s i t y t o a c h e r i s h e d recipe, making its way into the menus of trattorias and pizzerias. But the essence of pasta allo scarpariello lies in its simplicity and the creativity i t i n s p i r e d i n t h o s e w h o made it: initially, it was all about making do with what was at hand—be it leftover sauce or a mix of different pasta shapes available in the kitchen. Today, while fresh tomatoes and specific pasta shapes like mezzanelli or penne have become com- mon in its preparation, the spirit of the dish remains unchanged: it continues to embody the resourcefulness of its origins, with cheese, particularly Pecorino, play- ing a central role, alongside the fresh burst of basil that brings the dish back to its roots. W h a t p a s t a s h o u l d w e use? Pasta allo scarpariello should be made with pasta shapes that hold sauce well, such as mezzanelli, pac- cheri, and penne, but it's a l s o c o m m o n l y p r e p a r e d with spaghetti. The choice of shape plays a critical role, a s i t i n f l u e n c e s h o w t h e s a u c e c l i n g s t o t h e p a s t a itself. Over time, preferences m i g h t h a v e s h i f t e d t o include more readily avail- a b l e o r p r e f e r r e d p a s t a s h a p e s , r e f l e c t i n g b o t h regional availability and per- sonal tastes. T h e s e c r e t i s a l l i n t h e sauce! At its core, the sauce for pasta allo scarpariello is tomato-based, an illustra- t i o n o f t h e s i m p l i c i t y o f Neapolitan sauces. As we said, the sauce was made from leftovers of the Sunday ragù, carne al sugo, or with fresh tomatoes, depending on what was available. The s a u c e ' s s i m p l i c i t y i s i t s strength because it allows the flavors of the tomatoes a n d c h e e s e s t o s h i n e through. Choosing the right cheese Cheese is a pivotal ingre- d i e n t i n p a s t a a l l o scarpariello. Traditionally, it involved a generous use of g r a t e d P e c o r i n o a n d , i n m o r e r e c e n t v a r i a t i o n s , Parmigiano-Reggiano, both of which offer a depth of fla- vor and a creamy texture to the sauce. It's interesting to s e e h o w t h e i r c h o i c e h a s always been connected, of course, to Neapolitan peo- ple's legendary resourceful- ness, but also to their pen- chant for bold, satisfying flavors. Key is the practice of incorporating cheese direct- ly into the sauce rather than simply garnishing the fin- ished dish with it: this is the most distinctive feature of our pasta allo scarpariello. Let's make it! After all this talking, it's t i m e t o t r y a n d m a k e i t ! Here I give you the version proposed by La Cucina Ital- iana, which I trust because my grandmother (born in 1917) swore by it and we all know that le nonne hanno sempre ragione. For a dish serving four, you'd start with either 320 grams of paccheri or mez- zanelli pasta. The sauce is m a d e f r o m 4 0 0 g r a m s o f f r e s h o r c a n n e d c h e r r y tomatoes, flavored with a clove of garlic, and enriched w i t h g r a t e d P a r m e s a n a n d / o r P e c o r i n o c h e e s e . Extra virgin olive oil, salt. Basil leaves at the end are the key to bringing out the flavors. The process is straightfor- ward: Begin by boiling water for the pasta in a large pot. In a pan, gently fry the g a r l i c i n o l i v e o i l u n t i l i t starts to turn golden, then add the tomatoes. Season with salt and let it simmer for about 15 minutes before removing the garlic. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until it's very al dente, then drain it. Toss the pasta in the pan w i t h t h e t o m a t o s a u c e , adding handfuls of grated c h e e s e s , a n d m i x i n g w e l l u n t i l t h e s a u c e b e c o m e s creamy. Serve garnished with basil leaves and a drizzle of raw olive oil. E n j o y i n g p a s t a a l l o scarpariello with a piece of bread to mop up the sauce is recommended: in the end, what's a good meal if you don't end it with a scarpet- ta? Scarpariello: the ultimate tomato pasta FRANCESCA BEZZONE Friends sharing a pasta meal. Pasta allo scarpariello is a quick recipe, perfect for when you have people over on a short notice (Photo: DavideAngelini/Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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