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www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2024 L'Italo-Americano M e l f i , l o c a t e d a t t h e h e a r t o f t h e B a s i l i c a t a region in Southern Italy, is a town rich in history, culture, and tradition. Nestled in the V u l t u r e t e r r i t o r y o f t h e p r o v i n c e o f P o t e n z a , t h i s m e d i e v a l t o w n h a s a prosperous and fascinating past, strictly connected to the Norman domination in the 11th century. Its strategic p o s i t i o n a t t h e f o o t o f M o u n t V u l t u r e , a p r e h i s t o r i c v o l c a n o , played a pivotal role in its historical and agricultural development, leading to its m o d e r n r e l e v a n c e i n agriculture, commerce, and industry. Melfi's history is a tale of power, politics, and cultural exchange, deeply rooted in the Middle Ages and in the presence of the Normans, who truly shaped the destiny of the town. Its selection as the capital of the Duchy of Apulia in 1059 underlined Melfi's strategic and political importance in the Norman conquests across Southern I t a l y , a n d m a r k e d t h e b e g i n n i n g o f t h e t o w n ' s golden age, when it became a n e x u s o f r e l i g i o u s a n d political activity. The Norman influence on Melfi reached a significant milestone with the Council of Melfi in 1059, where P o p e N i c h o l a s I I a n d Norman leaders, including Robert Guiscard, formalized t h e i r a l l i a n c e , w h i c h w a s c r u c i a l f o r l e g i t i m i z i n g Norman rule in Southern I t a l y . A f t e r t h i s , t h e Normans fortified the city, and began the construction of the Melfi Castle - today a s y m b o l o f N o r m a n architectural and military prowess - which served as a f o u n d a t i o n f o r t h e c i t y ' s defense and administrative functions. The arrival of Emperor Frederick II in the 13th c e n t u r y m a r k e d a n o t h e r transformative moment in Melfi's history: in 1231, he p r o m u l g a t e d t h e Constitutions of Melfi ( L i b e r A u g u s t a l i s ) , a comprehensive codification o f l a w s t h a t w a s revolutionary for its time. T h e s e l a w s a i m e d a t c o n s o l i d a t i n g i m p e r i a l p o w e r , r e g u l a t i n g f e u d a l relations, and establishing a sophisticated bureaucratic s t a t e , u n d e r s c o r i n g F r e d e r i c k ' s a m b i t i o n t o m o d e r n i z e t h e l e g a l framework and governance of his realm. But, as you may expect, Melfi's prominence attracted envy and opposition. The city faced periods of decline, especially after the Norman a n d S w a b i a n e r a s , a s i t b e c a m e e m b r o i l e d i n t h e t u m u l t u o u s p o l i t i c s o f Southern Italy. The Angevin r u l e b r o u g h t a b o u t s i g n i f i c a n t c h a n g e s , including renovations to the castle by Charles II, who had it adapted to the evolving architectural and military n e e d s o f t h e t i m e . I n t h e subsequent centuries, Melfi found itself at the heart of a maze of feudal possessions and lordships. Notably, the prominent Doria family from Genoa was awarded the city in recognition of their service to Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor. M e l f i ' s r i c h h i s t o r y i s reflected in its main sights, i n c l u d i n g t h e i m p o s i n g N o r m a n C a s t l e , a t r u e chronicle of architectural e v o l u t i o n a n d h i s t o r i c a l significance. As we said, its construction began in the 11th century but its main s t r u c t u r e u n d e r w e n t numerous modifications that reflected the changing needs a n d a e s t h e t i c s o f i t s successive rulers. Initially, it m i g h t h a v e b e e n a s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d m i l i t a r y s t r o n g h o l d , b u t a s t i m e passed, it was expanded and beautified, incorporating r e s i d e n t i a l q u a r t e r s a n d s t a t e r o o m s . T o d a y , i t i s h o m e t o t h e N a t i o n a l Archaeological Museum, which displays an array of artifacts spanning from the prehistoric to the medieval period, including the famous Sarcophagus of Rapolla, a masterpiece of ancient art . The Cathedral of Melfi, another symbol of the city's a r c h i t e c t u r a l w e a l t h , h a s origins dating back to the same period. Founded by the Norman adventurer Robert Guiscard, the cathedral has seen several reconstructions, p a r t i c u l a r l y a f t e r e a r t h q u a k e s t h a t h a v e shaken the region over the centuries. In Melfi, though, it's the u r b a n f a b r i c i t s e l f t h a t ' s historically and artistically precious: enclosed by the remnants of Norman walls, the city unfolds in a series of narrow streets that follow the irregular contours of the h i l l i t s i t s u p o n . T h i s m e d i e v a l l a y o u t c a n b e compared to a sort of living museum, able to show the strategic considerations of M e l f i ' s f o u n d e r s a n d t h e lifestyle of its inhabitants through the ages. Other notable sites enrich Melfi's historical and cultural l a n d s c a p e , i n v i t i n g exploration and discovery: churches, palaces, and civic buildings dot the city, each w i t h s t o r i e s t o t e l l . F o r i n s t a n c e , t h e C h u r c h o f S a n t a M a r i a A s s u n t a s h o w c a s e s r e m a r k a b l e architectural details and art, while the various palazzos tell us a story of the city's feudal past and its transition into modern times. Let's move from art to the kitchen, where we find out t h a t M e l f i ' s c u l i n a r y landscape is a true mirror of the area's fertile lands and bountiful agriculture. We have Maccuarnar, a type of p a s t a d i s h , L a g a n e d i castagna, lasagne made with chestnuts, and Pancotto, a s i m p l e s o u p m a d e w i t h potatoes and bread, but also Lucanian lamb, known for its tender and flavorful meat. The fertile volcanic soil of the Vulture region offers a d i s t i n c t i v e t e r r o i r t h a t i n f l u e n c e s t h e t a s t e a n d q u a l i t y o f l o c a l p r o d u c e , m a k i n g i t a n i n t e g r a l c o m p o n e n t o f M e l f i ' s g a s t r o n o m y . I t ' s n o t a surprise, then, to find out that local peppers, tomatoes, and legumes all contribute to the flavors and richness of local cuisine. Cheese production also plays an important role in the regional economy - and diet! - with pecorino and caciocavallo being among the favorites. These cheeses are often served with local breads, including Pane di Matera, a sourdough bread known for its crusty exterior and soft interior, created t h a n k s t o a s p e c i a l fermentation process. L a s t b u t n o t l e a s t , w e must mention the region's vineyards and wines, which certainly contribute to the overall culinary experience: Aglianico del Vulture, m a d e f r o m t h e A g l i a n i c o grape grown in the volcanic soils of Mount Vulture, is a r o b u s t r e d w i n e t h a t complements local cuisine's rich flavors to perfection. Melfi and its imposing castle (Photo: Biathlonua/Dreamstime) Discovering the ancient Norman capital of Melfi CHIARA D'ALESSIO The castle of Melfi, in all its grandness (Photo: Enrico della Pietra/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES