L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano T hese days, when you think of fish dishes, the last thing that comes t o m i n d i s t h e idea of cucina povera, that type of dishes based on once- upon-a-time cheap and wide- l y a v a i l a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s , which could satiate whole families without spending too much. So many of Italy's most popular foods, includ- i n g p o l e n t a , p a s t a e ceci, canederli, ribollita, minestra maritata, and pan- z a n e l l a , c o m e f r o m t h i s incredible tradition, born from the necessity of reduc- ing waste and based on our ancestors' great creativity in the kitchen. But fish dishes, too? Really? Well, yes. As a country surrounded on three sides by the sea, fish has always been abundant, but not always as expensive as it is nowadays, hence the presence, up and down the Boot, of fish-based heart-warming and belly-fill- ing dishes, part of the cucina povera tradition. Here, we'll take a look at fish soups, starting from super-tradi- tional Ligurian buridda and Tuscan cacciucco, all the way to Trapani's exotic cuscusù: be ready to get hungry! L i g u r i a : b u r i d d a a n d ciuppin B u r i d d a , a l s o k n o w n as burrida, is a traditional fish soup from Liguria, more specifically from Genoa, its capital. It is made from a medley of fish and seafood, which varies based on the freshest catches available. Commonly featured are fish such as mullet, red snapper, or monkfish, alongside shell- fish like mussels, clams, and squid, complemented by aro- matics like olive oil, garlic, onions, tomatoes, white wine, and parsley. Occasionally, a touch of chili pepper is added to give it a subtle, warming heat. A quintessential aspect of enjoying buridda is also the way it's served, always with thick slices of home- made bread, to enjoy all of its goodness, to the very last spoonful. Liguria is also the home of c i u p p i n , another fish soup made with fish like red snapper, rockfish, or cod, along with shellfish like mus- sels, clams, and shrimp. The recipe is completed with olive oil, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and aromatic herbs such as parsley and thyme. A splash of white wine adds depth to the broth, while a bit of chili pepper or saffron can offer more zest. With cacciucco, ciuppin is believed to have been the inspiration for San Francisco's own cioppino soup. While similar in ingredi- ents, buridda and ciuppin are n o t t h e s a m e : b u r i d d a i s more of a hearty and rich fish s t e w , w h i l e c i u p p i n i s a lighter and more delicate dish, that emphasizes the natural sweetness and fresh- ness of the seafood and is characterized by its smooth, tasty broth. Tuscany: cacciucco Cacciucco comes from the western coastal towns of Tuscany, especially Livorno and Viareggio, and is known for its rich flavors and hearty composition. It includes a variety of fish and shellfish, and it typically features at least five different types of seafood, such as red gurnard, scorpionfish, small clams, firm-fleshed fish like monk- fish or whitefish, red snap- p e r , J o h n D o r y , g r o u p e r , mussels, shrimp, and cala- mari. The broth is flavored with vegetables (like onions, tomatoes, leeks, zucchini, or y e l l o w s q u a s h ) , s p i c e s (including garlic, aniseed, c r u s h e d r e d p e p p e r , s a l t , black pepper, parsley, thyme, or bay leaf), and other ingre- dients such as fish stock, tomato paste, vermouth, or wine. A unique aspect of tra- d i t i o n a l c a c c i u c c o i s t h e inclusion of a stone from the sea to enhance the dish's fla- vors. Cacciucco is believed to have originated in theNear East, with the word "cacciuc- co" deriving from the Turkish "kaçukli," meaning "bits and pieces" or "odds and ends," which reflects the stew's com- position, made from a variety o f f i s h a v a i l a b l e t o t h e cook. Cacciucco shares simi- larities with other types of f i s h s t e w , l i k e t h e F r e n c h b o u i l l a b a i s s e , Greek kakavia, and Span- ish zarzuela, and it has influ- enced, some believe, dishes like cioppino in San Fran- c i s c o , c r e a t e d b y I t a l i a n - American fishermen using the local Dungeness crab in a variation of the cacciucco recipe. Le Marche: brodetto Brodetto is typical of the central region of Marche, with a base of various fish and shellfish types, tradition- ally including at least thirteen varieties in the classic brodet- t o a l l ' A n c o n e t a n a . T h i s assortment shows the con- nection with the dish's ori- gins when it was a way to use the day's catch. Brodetto is made by preparing fish stock and cooking seafood with vegetables like onion, fennel, and celery, along with toma- toes and spices. It serves as a main course and pairs well with crusty bread. Campania: pasta e fagioli con cozze P a s t a e f a g i o l i c o n c o z z e i s a t r a d i t i o n a l Neapolitan dish, usually pre- p a r e d w i t h s m a l l p a s t a shapes such as ditalini, tubet- ti, or small shells (which hold well their texture in thick soups), along with beans like cannellini or borlotti cooked u n t i l t e n d e r a n d c r e a m y . F r e s h m u s s e l s a r e t h e n added, along with tomatoes and aromatics such as garlic, onions, and parsley. Mussels are typically steamed in a fla- vorful broth until they open, releasing their juices and enhancing the overall depth of the dish. Sicily: cuscusù Trapanese Cuscusù Trapanese is the perfect embodiment of Sicily's rich and varied culi- nary heritage: at the heart of this beloved dish lies cous- cous, a grain that represents well the historical ties of the island to North African culi- n a r y t r a d i t i o n s . F r e s h seafood, including shrimp, calamari, and mussels, is gently simmered in a fragrant tomato-based sauce made with ripe tomatoes, garlic, onions, and herbs such as basil, parsley, and oregano. A touch of chili pepper adds a subtle tang, while high-quali- ty extra virgin olive oil lends a b e a u t i f u l r i c h n e s s a n d depth of flavor to the dish. Once prepared, cuscusù Tra- panese is served in generous portions with couscous form- ing a bed for the seafood and sauce, and is often garnished with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. "Ma quale cucina povera!" Fish soups of Italy from North to South FRANCESCA BEZZONE Buridda, above, is a traditional fish dish from Genoa (Photo: Elena Tcykina/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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