L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano T u s c a n y h a s e n t i c e d v i s i t o r s f o r g e n e r a t i o n s with its stunning landscapes, well- preserved medieval towns, and colorful pageants. For those same reasons, it also attracts plenty of tourists, particularly during the sum- mer months. If you're the kind of travel- er who likes to get off the beaten path but still enjoy authentic experiences, con- sider spending a few days in A r e z z o . A c i t y o f a b o u t 100,000 in eastern Tuscany, Arezzo was once an impor- t a n t E t r u s c a n t r a d i n g post. Today, it's famous for its churches, including the 14 th- century Basilica of San Francesco where visitors can view one of Europe's most exquisite series of frescoes — Piero della Francesca's The Legend of the True Cross. Arezzo also offers several fascinating house-museums, i n c l u d i n g t h a t o f p o e t Petrarch, Renaissance artist Giorgio Vasari, and modern- d a y a n t i q u e d e a l e r I v a n Bruschi. The city is conve- niently located on the Flo- rence-Rome train line, mak- ing side trips to Cortona or Perugia easy to do. And then there's Arezzo's c o l o r f u l m e d i e v a l j o u s t . T w i c e a y e a r s i n c e 1 9 3 1 , except for the World War II years, Arezzo has regularly h o s t e d t h e J o u s t o f t h e S a r a c e n ( L a G i o s t r a d e l Saracino). This year's joust is scheduled for June 22 and September 1. The competi- tion is centered in Piazza G r a n d e , o n e o f t h e m o s t characteristic and ancient squares in Italy. Italians take their festivals seriously, so it's no surprise that joust day unfolds with military precision. A cannon s a l u t e – t h e f i r s t o f f i v e throughout the day — greets early-morning risers. At mid- day, the town herald stations h i m s e l f i n c i t y h a l l t o a n n o u n c e t h e u p c o m i n g c o m p e t i t i o n . I n t h e e a r l y evening, after the heat of the day, a colorful procession of s o m e 3 0 0 t o w n s p e o p l e parade through the streets in period dress. Next up are the flag-throwers and the presen- tation of the heraldic ban- ners. Finally, it's time for the main attraction. E a c h o f A r e z z o ' s f o u r neighborhoods — Porta Cru- cifera, Porta del Foro, Porta S a n t ' A n d r e a a n d P o r t a Santo Spirito – selects two knights to compete in the joust. In dramatic fashion, they gallop flat-out on horse- back from one end of the piazza to the other, carrying a large wooden lance. The g o a l i s t o h i t a l i f e - s i z e d mechanical figure known as the Buratto. The figure is spring-loaded, "armed" with a shield in his left hand and a chain mace in his right, a medieval instrument made up of a whip with three ball- and-chains attached. The Buratto's shield is divided into 10 sections, each area worth points. The more accurately a knight can aim h i s l a n c e , t h e h i g h e r t h e score. A particular unlucky placement might trigger the Buratto's mace which can rise up, swing around wildly and hit the rider. If that hap- pens, points are deducted from the score. After each ride-by, a team of joust officials run onto the track to remove the score sheet from the shield and put up a fresh one – with just seconds to spare before the next rider gallops down the t r a c k . E a c h k n i g h t c o m - pletes two runs; the winner is the rider who scores the most points over both runs. The prize is the coveted Lan- cia d'Oro, or golden lance. The Joust of the Saracen had its origins in the Middle Ages between the 6 th and 7 th centuries. It is thought to have evolved from a mili- t a r y t r a i n i n g e x e r c i s e d e s i g n e d t o i m p r o v e t h e knights' strength, endurance and aim. During the Cru- sades, the "bad guy" was the Saracen, or Moor, and so the tradition began. During medieval times, jousts and tournaments were ways that the townspeople came together to celebrate special events. In Arezzo, records indicate this particu- lar joust was very popular and repeated regularly. Even Dante, who had stayed near Arezzo during his exile in the 14 th century, described the joust's festive atmosphere in Canto XXII of the Inferno. If you can't be there for the actual tournament, you can relive some of the excite- ment in a museum called The Colors of the Joust. F o u n d e d i n 2 0 1 6 a n d installed on the ground floor o f P a l a z z o C o m u n a l e i n P i a z z a d e l l a L i b e r t à , t h e museum tells the story of the event through original cos- tumes, flags, photographs, films and other items. If you a r e p l a n n i n g t o v i s i t , b e aware it's only open on Sat- urdays, Sundays and holi- days. If your interest runs more t o a r t a n d a n t i q u e s , t h e n time your visit for the first Sunday of the month and the preceding Saturday when one of Italy's largest and old- e s t a n t i q u e s f a i r i s h e l d . More than 500 exhibitors p a r t i c i p a t e i n t h e F i e r a Antiquaria, selling every- t h i n g f r o m j e w e l r y a n d c e r a m i c s t o d i n i n g r o o m tables. The fair completely takes over Piazza Grande and the nearby Vasari Log- gia, and spills into most of the side streets. Locals come from miles around. A r e z z o m a y l a c k t h e cachet of Florence and Siena but this undiscovered gem is home to a great selection of restaurants offering delicious food at reasonable prices. S o m e l o c a l s p e c i a l t i e s include cavolo nero (a type of kale which thrives in the hills surrounding Arezzo), beef from the Val di Chiana, pasta such as pappardelle or pici topped with hare ragù or wild boar sauce, and a vari- ety of cheeses. All are best enjoyed with a glass of local wine. After a day of sightseeing, enjoy a fabulous meal at one of these Arezzo dining spots: Vineria Ciao dal Chiodo on Piazza Sant Agostino, the family-run Trattoria Mazzo- ni on Via S. Lorentino, and Trattoria il Saraceno on Via G i u s e p p e M a z z i n i . F o r lunch, try a piadina at La Tua Piadina Arezzo. This rustic Italian flatbread sand- wich, made to order on a griddle with your choice of ingredients, is a delicious regional specialty. RITA CIPALLA A r e z z o ' s J o u s t o f t h e S a r a c e n promises pageant and tradition Arezzo's annual joust pits knights on horseback against a life-sized mechanical figure; the winner is the rider who scores the most points in two attempts (Photo: Discover Arezzo) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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