L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano F or too long Sicily w a s a n i s l a n d g i v e n n o t m u c h more than a side glance. Now a ris- ing star in Italian tourism, she is making her mark as a t o p t r a v e l d e s t i n a t i o n . Tourism statistics show 4.89 million visitors crossed Sici- ly's shores in 2022, a number up significantly from the 1.17 million in 2016. Television's The White Lotus may have bolstered these numbers, but there is more to this island than beautiful beaches and glitzy resorts. Applying the idea of savor- ing life's pleasures slowly and in manageable portions, the limited stretch of northwest- ern Sicily from Palermo to M a r s a l a b e c k o n s w i t h a treasure trove of breathtaking vistas, crystalline clear seas, f a s c i n a t i n g h i s t o r y , r i c h multi-cultural heritage, and unforgettable food and wine – and all manageable in two weeks' time. Follow along for a whistlestop tour of what awaits along this striking coastline. First stop: Palermo. The city's Falcone-Borsellino Airport services inbound flights from Italy and abroad; it's likely your journey will commence here anyway! His- torically a hub for organized crime, Palermo underwent a successful cleanup beginning in the 1980s. Now an up-and- coming tourist destination, the city has adopted a "No Mafia" theme — including a museum by this name. Some- what like visiting a flamboy- ant aunt with her raucous, opinionated, yet generously loving ways, a holdover of a couple of days here is time well spent. Nurse the jetlag by wandering through Palermo's historic center. A striking blend of architectural styles awes the senses while the aroma of street foods such as savory fried arancini or vari- ous local specialties made from livestock entrails will stir up an appetite. Don't ask what's in it – just enjoy! Find time to savor a performance by Palermo's UNESCO-recog- nized puppet theatre –Opera d e i P u p i . B a t t l i n g m a r i - onettes energize you for a jaunt through the high-spirit- ed Ballarò Market. Effus- ing local culture and enticing buys, it's the delightful under- carriage of Palermo's soul. Churches are abundant in Palermo. Get the most for your time by heading to Piaz- z a B e l l i n i w h e r e t h r e e unique examples await. The Church of San Cataldo (1154) is small but impres- sive; its magnificently stark brick arches transport you to an earlier era. Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (1143) is opulently cloaked in stunning Byzantine artwork, while just across the piazza you'll find Santa Caterina d'Alesan- dria…and its nun-run bak- ery. Visit the church, then enjoy a dolce in the court- yard. Palermo Cathedral and the Norman Castle, as well as the mummy-filled Capuchin Catacombs are visit-worthy if time allows. Grabbing a rental car in Palermo is advisable; howev- er, if you're willing to miss out on some destinations, one can get around by bus and/or train. For our arm- chair exploration, we'll follow the autostrada westerly to the ancient and enchanting seaside village of Castella- mare del Golfo. An idyllic s e t t i n g o f M e d i t e r r a n e a n beauty, several days here provide unwinding on pris- tine beaches, enjoying local seafood specialties, hiking in natural beauty, and exploring the town's intriguing blend of architecture and history. Castellamare's picturesque h a r b o r i s c h a r m i n g . T h e bowl-shaped inlet's collection of colorful boats align like subjects of the impressive Norman-era castle overlook- ing the cove. For adventure, charter a vessel to the nearby Zingaro Nature Reserve and its dreamlike turquoise waters. Devote at least half a day to visiting the nearby Tonnara di Scopello, the site of a once vibrant tuna f i s h i n g c o m p l e x a c t i v e l y operating from the 13th cen- tury until the late 1970s. Its i c o n i c p i n k b u i l d i n g a n d a n c i e n t w a t c h t o w e r h a v e found new life as guest apart- ments, but day-trippers can v i s i t w i t h c a r e f u l t i m i n g (once at max limit, that's it) and a €15 entry fee. The rich h i s t o r y o f t h e T o n n a r a i s highlighted by a small on-site m u s e u m a n d o l d p h o - t o g r a p h s t h r o u g h o u t t h e apartments. Rising with the roosters might also gift your visit with a spot on the stun- ning private beach here. After a wistful goodbye to Castellamare, continue track- ing westerly towards Tra- pani, the perfect base for exploring Sicily's far western tip. Plan the drive to include a leisurely stop at San Vito lo Capo Beach, one of the area's most popular, and for g o o d r e a s o n . S u n b a t h i n g here atop the white sand is a n a r t ; l o c a l s a r e o f t e n referred to as arripudduti – Sicilian for wrinkled people. Warm your skin before div- ing into waters that could make the Caribbean jealous. T h e B l u e F l a g b e a c h extends crescent-shaped for almost two miles under the watch of the dramatic Monte Monaco. Roomy, yes, but summer gets crazy: spend a little extra for a private spot and its conveniences. The nearby antiquated Tonnara d e l S e c c o i s w a l k a b l e – savor what's left of its story amidst decaying ruins before enjoying another swim on the adjacent tranquil beach. An hour's drive further along brings us to the ancient port town of Trapani. Her expansive history as a trading hub with North Africa is evi- dent through stunning archi- tecture and unique cuisine. Trapani's laidback Mediter- ranean vibe offers those who linger the experience of the city beach along the ancient Walls of Tramontana, vast cultural dining experiences, a lively evening scene, and the perfect base for must-do day trips. E a c h d e s t i n a t i o n f r o m Trapani's hub is worthy of an article unto itself, but we'll have to suffice with the short- list – which hopefully spurs the imagination to investi- gate further! The Trapani and Pace- c o S a l t P a n s N a t u r a l R e s e r v e – P i c t u r e s q u e windmills lure Quixote-like to salt pans spread like win- dowpanes mirroring the sky. A s m a l l m u s e u m a n d t h e ability to walk the still-active flats introduce a fascinating ancient world of harvesting the white gold of the sea. Erice – Sitting prettily atop Monte San Giuliano, even the poet Virgil bespoke her charms. Take the cable car from Trapani for magnifi- cent views. Winding narrow streets lead to pasticcerie brimming with dolci erici- ni. Sample a marzipan or a custard-filled warm pastry before climbing to the Castle of Venus, a 12th-century Norman castle built atop the r u i n s o f a p a g a n t e m p l e . Adjacent are the Gardens of Balio with stunning 360- views amidst luxuriant flora. Segesta – It will require some walking but prepare to be enchanted by the antiqui- ties found here. A settlement d a t i n g s e v e r a l t h o u s a n d years back, what remains is the spectacular Doric Tem- ple of Segesta (430BC). It was never completed; what we admire today is close to its original state. To gaze u p w a r d s a l o n g a m a s s i v e h a n d - c h i s e l e d c o l u m n churns the mind and soul. Within the archeological park is another don't-miss…the w e l l - p r e s e r v e d G r e e k Amphitheater with seating for 4,000! Stand center stage in the arena and pause; the roar of the crowd is practical- ly audible. Sweeping views through the mountains to the Mediterranean Sea add to its mesmerizing mystique and allure. L a s t s t o p : M a r s a l a . A once vital seaport town dat- ing to 400 BC, Marsala found her fame as a wine town in t h e 1 7 0 0 s . W h i l e a g r e a t departure point for the near- by Egadi Islands, spend at least a day and tour several w i n e r i e s , t h e n e n j o y t h e intriguing Baroque town cen- ter and gentle vibe that mil- lennia of existence brings. And always, a beautiful beach awaits! PAULA REYNOLDS Summer in Sicily – the magnificent Northwestern Coast ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES The Tonnara di Scopello, near Trapani (Photo: Vadym Lavra/Dreamstime) and, bottom right, the Trapani and Paceco salt pans (Photo: Travelbook/Dreamstime)

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