L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 25, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE TRADITIONS T h e r o a d f r o m S i e n a t o F l o - r e n c e h a s b e e n i n u s e f o r c e n - t u r i e s , p a s s i n g through charming villages, fields bursting with flowers, and gently rolling country- s i d e . A b o u t 2 0 m i n u t e s north of Siena, along one bend of the road, an impres- s i v e s k y l i n e s u d d e n l y springs up: it's the castle wall and fortified towers of Monteriggioni, a garrison town founded in the early 1200s. Monteriggioni was estab- lished as a defensive outpost by the army of Siena to keep w a t c h o n i t s l o n g - t i m e enemy, the Florentines. In its early days, it was almost exclusively inhabited by sol- diers, officers and magis- trates, along with their fami- lies. Completely surrounded by a thick stone wall, the castle-town was fortified by 14 square-based towers set e q u i d i s t a n t f r o m i t s t w o gates, Porta Giovanni and P o r t a R o m e a . I n a n c i e n t t i m e s , t h e g a t e s w e r e equipped with drawbridges and shutters operated by a pulley system. Today the well-preserved v i l l a g e o f f e r s a s t u n n i n g example of medieval mili- tary architecture. The main entry point is Porta Romea whose name recalls the ter- minus (Rome) of the Via F r a n c i g e n a , a b u s y medieval highway for pil- grims and merchants that passes nearby. The route of the Via Francigena was set by Bishop Sigeric of Can- terbury, who first made the journey in 990 AD to meet w i t h t h e P o p e . H e k e p t detailed records of his trip, including pictures and maps o f t h e 7 9 s t o p s h e m a d e a l o n g t h e w a y , w h i c h became the basis for today's pilgrimage route. Back then, the pilgrims w e r e e a s y t o s p o t – t h e y wore long cloaks, sported wide-brimmed hats and car- ried wooden staffs, both for physical support along the r o u t e a n d f o r d e f e n s e , i f n e e d e d . E v e n t o d a y , i t ' s c o m m o n t o s e e l o n g - d i s - tance hikers and bikers in t h e v i l l a g e , t a k i n g a r e s t from whatever segment of t h e V i a F r a n c i g e n a t h e y decided to traverse. In the early 1300s, Dante Alighieri visited Monterig- gioni during his decades of exile. Evidently, the archi- t e c t u r e m a d e q u i t e a n impression on him and he l a t e r i m m o r t a l i z e d t h e town's distinctive features in Canto XXXI of the Divine Comedy. Comparing the 14 towers to frightening giants k e e p i n g g u a r d o v e r t h e Inferno, Dante wrote: As on its circular para- pets M o n t e r i g g i o n i c r o w n s itself with walls; E ' e n t h u s t h e s h o r e , encompassing the abyss Was turreted with giants, half their length U p r e a r i n g , h o r r i b l e , whom Jove from heaven Yet threatens, when his muttering thunder rolls. O n c e t h r o u g h P o r t a R o m e a , i t ' s e a s y t o w a l k from one end of the village to the other in about 10 min- utes. No worries about get- ting lost: there is just one main road. A large water reservoir is centrally located in the main piazza; there are s m a l l e r a n c i e n t c i s t e r n s placed elsewhere in the vil- lage. Stone buildings that o n c e h o u s e d m a g i s t r a t e s and wealthy nobles are now restaurants or shops selling pottery, clothing and art. G a r d e n s a r e s c a t t e r e d a r o u n d t h e t o w n ; i n medieval times, these green a r e a s h e l p e d s u s t a i n t h e troops when the castle was under siege. In the main piazza sits the church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in 1213, with i t s s i m p l e y e t e l e g a n t Romanesque-Gothic lines. A s b e f i t t i n g a t o w n t h a t a t t r a c t s i t s f a i r s h a r e o f tourists, Monteriggioni has an assortment of restaurants to choose from – from those that specialize in simple but delicious piadinas (a tradi- tional flatbread sandwich) to ones offering a full-course lunch or dinner. T h e c i r c u l a r w a l l i s about 1,600 feet in circum- ference, following the con- t o u r s o f t h e s u r r o u n d i n g landscape. Several sections a r e o p e n t o v i s i t o r s ; t h e access is via two staircases where tickets must be pur- chased (hang on to the tick- et; it also allows entry into the museum). With an ele- vation of about 65 feet, the walkways provide overviews of the vineyards, olive groves and the eastern slope of the Montagnola Senese, a hilly region that has been inhabit- ed since Etruscan times. The town museum, Mon- teriggioni in Arme, offers a fascinating look at the vil- lage's rich military history. Inside are reproductions of weapons, armor and siege engines as well as displays of military uniforms and diora- mas depicting life in the for- tified village. The museum staff is exceedingly helpful and can provide brochures in both English and Italian. Monteriggioni is so magi- cal that, at times, it seems more like a movie set than a r e a l t o w n . I n s o m e w a y s , that's true. Its compact size and impressive architecture not only attract visitors but h a v e b e e n u s e d b y f i l m crews and inspired back- g r o u n d s f o r v i d e o g a m e d e v e l o p e r s . A m e d i e v a l festival is held every July, complete with feasting, fal- conry, jousting and re-enact- ments of key battles. This year's festival is set for July 4-7. The nearby countryside o f f e r s g r e a t h i k i n g a n d cycling opportunities, lead- i n g p a s t r u i n e d c a s t l e s , medieval chapels and pic- t u r e s q u e v i l l a g e s . O n e excursion worth considering is Abbadia Isola, an abbey that was also a rest stop for pilgrims on the Via Franci- g e n a . F o u n d e d a r o u n d 1,000 by the Benedictines, the abbey's strategic posi- tion enhanced its power and influence during the Middle Ages. Besides visiting the abbey, tourists today can also visit a small archaeolog- ical museum. Monteriggioni is an easy day-trip from Siena. If dri- ving, there is a large parking lot outside the town's hilltop l o c a t i o n . I f t a k i n g p u b l i c transportation, buses from A u t o l i n e e T o s c a n e , t h e regional bus line, will drop you along the main road – ask the driver where to get off. From there, it's about a 1 0 - m i n u t e w a l k u p h i l l t o Porta Romea. Monteriggioni: gateway to the Middle Ages RITA CIPALLA Walking to Monteriggioni (Photo: Zummolo2014/Dreamstime) and, right, one of Monteriggioni's gates (Photo: Stevanzz/Dreamstime)

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