L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 8, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano S ome months ago, we ran an article here, on the pages of L'Italo-Amer- icano, about Naples and its cuisine, which was nominated the best in the world by visitors. It's true: Naples is a city famous for its rich culinary heritage, which goes from decadent, complex dishes to easy, quick, and equally delicious street food options, all perfect to de- light our taste buds. Among these, the panino Napoletano holds a special place in the hearts of locals and visitors alike. However, many may not know that this b e l o v e d s a n d w i c h h a s i t s roots in a more humble pre- decessor known as the pag- n u t t i e l l o . L e t ' s e x p l o r e together the history, ingredi- ents, and evolution of these i c o n i c N e a p o l i t a n s t r e e t f o o d s , a n d l e t ' s f i n d o u t what's their significance in the city's gastronomic cul- ture. Origins of the pagnut- tiello The pagnuttiello comes from a time when resource- fulness and frugality were essential in the kitchens of Naples: typically, pagnuttiel- li were made from leftover dough mixed with ingredi- ents like lard, salami, pecori- no cheese, and ciccioli (pork c r a c k l i n g s ) , w h i c h a r e crunchy bits of meat or rind l e f t a f t e r r e n d e r i n g l a r d . V a r i a t i o n s e x i s t e d , w i t h some including hard-boiled eggs or using olive oil instead of lard; recipes varied from bakery to bakery with every b a k e r a d d i n g a p e r s o n a l touch to this simple yet tasty delight. Back in the day, it was common to see young boys, often relatives of local bak- ers, pushing carts through the narrow streets of Naples, selling an array of freshly made snacks, including pag- nuttielli. They were called p a g n u t t e l l a r i and they were the original purveyors of the pagnuttiello. Howev- er, this tradition began to wane as Naples modernized a n d h e a l t h r e g u l a t i o n s b e c a m e s t r i c t e r , a n d t h e practice of selling food from s t r e e t c a r t s b e c a m e l e s s common: the once-familiar sight of these young vendors d i s a p p e a r e d f r o m t h e s t r e e t s . D e s p i t e t h i s , t h e pagnuttiello did not vanish entirely: some historic bak- eries in neighborhoods like M o n t e s a n t o , S a n i t à , P o r t a C a p u a n a , a n d A n t i g n a n o c o n t i n u e t o honor this tradition, offering pagnuttielli to those who seek a taste of nostalgia. The birth of the pani- no Napoletano As the pagnuttiello faded f r o m e v e r y d a y l i f e , t h e p a n i n o N a p o l e t a n o emerged as a popular alter- n a t i v e . A s m e n t i o n e d b y Amedeo Colella in his Mille P a r a u s t i e l l i d i C u c i n a N a p o l e t a n a , t h e p a n i n o Napoletano originated from the practice of using leftover dough mixed with lunch left- overs such as hard-boiled eggs, cheese, and salami. Developed in the 1950s, it differs significantly in its preparation and ingredients from pagnuttiello, especially when it comes to its dough: while the latter relies on a s i m p l e b r e a d - l i k e d o u g h , with the addition of lard, the panino Napoletano is made with a richer, brioche- like concoction that includes milk among its ingredients. Soft and slightly sweet, this dough is the perfect canvas for a variety of savory fill- ings. W h i c h o n e s , y o u a s k ? well, a popular Neapolitan saying recites that chell' che ci miett' c' truov' or "what you put in, you've found" so, b a s i c a l l y , a n y t h i n g g o e s . However, some ingredients are more traditional than others. Your typical panino Napoletano is stuffed with salami, provolone cheese, a n d o f t e n i n c l u d e s h a r d - boiled eggs. The fillings are e n v e l o p e d i n t h e d o u g h , which is then baked to gold- en perfection. Considering the addition o f m i l k t o t h e d o u g h a n d boiled eggs among the fill- i n g s , y o u m a y t h i n k t h a t p a n i n o N a p o l e t a n o i s a heavier version of the old pagnuttiello but, in fact, the panino Napoletano remains a "lighter" version compared t o i t s a n c e s t o r . T h i s i s because the base dough of the pagnuttiello is not regu- l a r b r e a d d o u g h b u t t h e m u c h r i c h e r t o r t a n o dough, which traditionally uses a generous amount of lard. The filling is also more substantial, including ample ciccioli. These are often sea- soned with pepper and salt and paired with cheese, typi- cally fresh ricotta. In Naples, they are still available in del- icatessens, especially in a "soft" form where pressed meat is cut into thick slices. As you can see, to truly appreciate the panino Napo- letano and the pagnuttiello, one must understand the ingredients and preparation methods that define them. As we said, the pagnuttiello is made using leftover tor- tano dough combined with l a r d o r o l i v e o i l , s a l a m i , pecorino cheese, and cicci- oli, with hard-boiled eggs as an optional addition. The dough is mixed with these fillings, shaped into small r o u n d l o a v e s , a n d b a k e d u n t i l g o l d e n b r o w n . T h e panino Napoletano, on the other hand, uses a brioche- l i k e d o u g h t h a t i n c l u d e s milk, creating a softer tex- t u r e . T h i s d o u g h i s f i l l e d w i t h s a l a m i , p r o v o l o n e cheese, black pepper, and optionally, hard-boiled eggs. The fillings are layered with- in the dough, which is then rolled up and baked to cre- ate a soft, flavorful sand- wich. The cultural signifi- c a n c e o f p a g n u t t i e l l o and panino Napoletano Both the pagnuttiello and the panino Napoletano are true symbols of Neapolitan c u i s i n e ' s i n g e n u i t y a n d adaptability: both of these street foods came from the need to use available ingre- dients efficiently, transform- ing simple components into s o m e t h i n g t a s t y , h e a r t - warming, and filling. The pagnuttiello, with its roots in the frugality of past gen- erations, can be a delightful way for many to give in to a bit of nostalgia or to have a taste of what our grandpar- e n t s ' y o u t h a r o u n d t h e streets of Naples may have been. The panino Napole- t a n o i s p e r h a p s a m o r e refined and accessible evolu- tion of the same. Both of them are perfect as an appetizer to kickstart your meal or as a satisfying snack that's a definite step up from options we may be more used to, like chips or chocolate bars. If you are in Naples, you'll come across many places that prepare them both, with a variety of fillings to satisfy all tastes. CHIARA D'ALESSIO From pagnuttiello to panino napoletano: savoring the flavors of Neapolitan tradition Panini Napoletani are made with a brioche-like dough, while pagnuttielli, their precursors, are made with tortano dough (Photo: Silviacrisman/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Pagnuttielli and panini napoletani are sold at bakeries and market stalls like the one in the picture (Photo: Yulia Grigoryeva/Dreamstime)

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