L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 22, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano T he Paciugo is a famous Ligurian dessert that com- b i n e s g e l a t o , whipped cream, fruit, and syrups to create a sundae-style treat. It is par- t i c u l a r l y i c o n i c a r o u n d Portofino, the beautiful seaside village on the Riv- iera di Levante known for its Piazzetta and many VIP visi- tors. There are two main sto- ries about where the Paciu- go was first invented. According to an article from La Cucina Italiana, written by Stefania Virone Vittor, Paciugo was created a t t h e G e l a t e r i a S a n Giorgio in Portofino, which celebrates its 100th anniver- sary this year; its recipe was created by the gelateria's f o u n d e r s , w h o u s e d l o c a l ingredients like Portofino lemons and apricots, as well as other fruits like cherries and strawberries, to give it a unique flavor. However, another version of the story points to a dif- ferent location and time. As r e p o r t e d b y G e n o v a T o d a y , t h e P a c i u g o w a s first invented in 1941 at the Caffè Excelsior, always in Portofino, by Lina Repet- to, who wanted to create a dessert different from the usual: she layered ice cream, whipped cream, raspberries, and grenadine syrup in a tall glass, then served it in an unconventional and perhaps slightly messy way. When asked what the dessert was called, she referred to it as "paciugo," meaning "mess" or "muddle" in the Ligurian dialect, which truly high- lighted its playful, slightly chaotic assembly. But the word paciugo has deeper roots in local culture than its association with ice cream. As we said, in Lig- uria this word is a commonly used dialect term meaning a " m e s s " — w h i c h f i t s t h e dessert's somewhat haphaz- ard nature — but there's also an old legend linked to the name, the story of Paci- u g o a n d P a c i u g a . T h i s popular tale dates back to t h e 1 1 t h c e n t u r y , a n d i t involves a Genoese sailor named Paciugo and his wife, Paciuga. Paciugo was taken captive by Turks for 12 years, and his wife remained faith- ful, praying for his return. However, upon his release, Paciugo, misled by rumors, accused Paciuga of infidelity and, in a fit of jealousy, he t h r e w h e r i n t o t h e s e a . Miraculously, she survived, and the legend ends with redemption and forgiveness, thanks to divine interven- tion. This tale of jealousy, betrayal, and eventual for- giveness has become a part of Genoa's cultural narrative and offers a symbolic con- nection to the name of the dessert, because let's face it... Paciugo made —indeed — quite a giant paciugo with his wife…! Now that we discovered t h e l e g e n d a n d m e a n i n g behind its name and found out it is so iconic that more than one place says to have invented it, it's time to see e x a c t l y w h a t w e s h o u l d e x p e c t w h e n w e o r d e r a Paciugo. Well, truth is its ingredients are straightfor- ward but lend themselves to variation depending on the recipe, so you can find varia- tions a bit everywhere. A classic Paciugo, such as the one provided by Cucchiaio d'Argento, consists of lay- ers of chocolate and straw- berry gelato, topped with f r e s h s t r a w b e r r i e s ( o r Amarena cherries), whipped cream, and grenadine syrup or cherry syrup. It's typically served in tall, chilled glasses, which also create a visually a p p e a l i n g , m u l t i - l a y e r e d dessert perfect for hot sum- mer days. The recipe from La Cuci- na Italiana and the one from Gelateria San Gior- g i o , o n t h e o t h e r h a n d , incorporates a wider variety of flavors, reflecting the local ingredients of Portofino. The gelato may feature flavors such as lemon and apricot, alongside other fruits, like strawberries, offering a more complex and regional twist on the dessert. This variation highlights the adaptability of t h e P a c i u g o t o d i f f e r e n t regional preferences, while still retaining its iconic com- bination of gelato, whipped cream, and syrup. Gelateria San Giorgio, in particular, focuses more on fresh fruit, adding strawberries, cher- ries, and cherry syrup, but lightens the recipe by using o n l y v a n i l l a i c e c r e a m , instead of chocolate, straw- berry flavors. If you want to recreate this iconic dessert at home, here's a simple version based on the Cucchiaio d'Argento recipe: Ingredients (for 2 or 3 people) 1 1/3 cup chocolate gelato 1 1/3 cup strawberry gela- to 3/4 cup of fresh strawber- ries (or Amarena cherries in syrup) 4 tablespoons grenadine or Amarena syrup 1 cup whipped cream Instructions: Chill tall, cylindrical glass- es in the freezer for a few hours before assembling the Paciugo. Slice the fresh strawber- ries or cherries and whip the c r e a m , t h e n s t o r e i n t h e refrigerator until needed. B e g i n a s s e m b l i n g t h e dessert by placing a layer of chocolate gelato (about one inch deep) at the bottom of the chilled glasses. Add a layer of whipped cream on top of the gelato, followed by some fresh fruit pieces. Repeat the process with a layer of strawberry gelato, more fruit, and another layer of whipped cream. Finally, drizzle grenadine or Amarena syrup over the whipped cream and serve immediately. This version is similar to the classic Ligurian Paciugo, but it can be adjusted based on personal preferences or the availability of ingredi- ents. O v e r t h e p a s t c e n t u r y , P a c i u g o h a s n o t o n l y remained a beloved dessert in Liguria, particularly in P o r t o f i n o , b u t h a s a l s o gained popularity in other parts of Italy, where it can be found relatively easily. If you are in Portofino, you should try both the fruity, regional t w i s t f r o m G e l a t e r i a S a n G i o r g i o o r t h e s l i g h t l y messier version created by Lina Repetto and then see what you prefer! But a good Paciugo, if you pick the right ingredients, can be also made at home, and become a delicious end- of-summer treat to enjoy relaxing in your garden, per- haps by the pool. Thinking, o f c o u r s e , o f b e i n g o n a beautiful Ligurian beach! A delicious mess, il Paciugo di Portofino LUCA SIGNORINI A Paciugo sundae (Photo: Luca Lorenzelli/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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