L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano H ave you ever h e a r d y o u r p a r e n t s o r grandparents s a y i n g t h a t something they cooked was meglio il giorno dopo, "bet- ter the day after they had made it?" Just like me, I am sure you did and, if you like c o o k i n g , y o u p r o b a b l y noticed it directly, too. In a recent article from La Cuci- na Italiana, food expert Alessandro Di Flaviano explained why dishes like lasagna, pasta e fagioli, and parmigiana di melanzane improve with time and you know what? Science is awe- some. Apparently, the key rea- son certain dishes taste bet- ter the next day lies in the process of flavor concen- t r a t i o n . A s D i F l a v i a n o notes, when a dish is left to sit, the water content gradu- ally evaporates, causing the flavors — especially those from spices, fats, and aro- matic ingredients — to inten- sify, which makes the overall taste deeper and more har- monious. T h e r e i s a l s o a n o t h e r f a n c y - n a m e d t h i n g , t h e process of retrogradation in starches, playing a sig- nificant role: basically, in dishes that contain pasta or rice, like lasagna or risotto, starch molecules reorganize as the dish cools, giving the food a firmer, more satisfy- ing texture. When reheated, the dish offers a pleasing contrast between the soft and creamy elements and the firmer pasta or rice. B u t l e t ' s l o o k c l o s e r t o some bona fide classics of Italian cuisine, to see why they are so much better "the day after." Of course, we must begin with one of the country's m o s t b e l o v e d d i s h e s , l a s a g n a , w h i c h i s a l s o a p r i m e e x a m p l e o f a m e a l t h a t b e n e f i t s f r o m b e i n g made a day in advance. Pop- ular across the country but often associated more strict- ly with the Emilia-Romagna region, lasagna has ancient r o o t s t h a t d a t e b a c k t o Roman times. The Romans had a dish called lagana, which was a precursor to modern lasagna, made from layers of dough and meat. However, the lasagna as we know it today, with its rich ragù, béchamel sauce, and layers of pasta, was perfect- ed in the Renaissance period in the courts of Italian nobil- ity, particularly in Bologna. When lasagna is left to sit overnight, the flavors of the ragù and béchamel blend more thoroughly, and the pasta absorbs them, which makes the dish richer. This is why it is common in Ital- ian households to prepare lasagna the day before a big meal! Parmigiana di melan- zane, or eggplant parme- s a n , i s a n o t h e r d i s h t h a t b e c o m e s e v e n m o r e d e l i - c i o u s a f t e r a n i g h t i n t h e refrigerator. Traditionally, p a r m i g i a n a i s a s s o c i a t e d with Southern Italy, particu- larly Sicily and Campania, where it is made with layers of fried eggplant, tomato s a u c e , m o z z a r e l l a , a n d Parmigiano-Reggiano. How- ever, the origins of parmi- giana are somewhat contest- ed: some culinary historians suggest that the dish could have originated in Emilia- R o m a g n a , w h e r e P a r m i - giano-Reggiano cheese is produced, and the method of layering ingredients (a technique known as parmi- giana) may have been devel- o p e d . I n d e e d , t h e n a m e "parmigiana" might derive from the use of Parmigiano- Reggiano, a cheese native to the Emilia region. Another t h e o r y i s t h a t t h e d i s h ' s name comes from the Sicil- ian word parmiciana, which refers to the slats of a wood- en shutter, similar to how the eggplant slices are lay- ered. Regardless of its pre- cise origins, parmigiana di m e l a n z a n e h a s b e c o m e a s t a p l e i n I t a l i a n c u i s i n e , which is much better a day after you bake it. As the dish sits, the flavors of the sauce and cheese meld with the eggplant, creating a more cohesive and flavorful expe- rience. Pasta e fagioli, or pasta and beans, is Italy's quintes- sential comfort food: made w i t h s i m p l e , i n e x p e n s i v e ingredients that were readily available to the peasant and farmer, it is among the most well-known cucina povera dishes we have. Over time, p a s t a e f a g i o l i b e c a m e a b e l o v e d d i s h t h r o u g h o u t I t a l y , w i t h e a c h r e g i o n a d d i n g i t s o w n t w i s t : f o r example, in Veneto, it's com- mon to add lard or pancetta, while in Tuscany, it might include a sprig of rosemary or a hint of garlic. The dish improves with time because t h e f l a v o r s o f t h e b e a n s , pasta, and seasonings con- tinue to develop as they sit t o g e t h e r , r e s u l t i n g i n a t h i c k e r , r i c h e r s o u p . T h e next day, the soup is often even more satisfying, with a heartier texture and more concentrated flavors. Some meat recipes also benefit from an extra day in t h e p o t , i n c l u d i n g i c o n i c s p e z z a t i n o . T h i s s t e w , w h i c h c a n b e m a d e w i t h beef, veal, or pork, is tradi- tionally braised with vegeta- bles like carrots, celery, and o n i o n s i n a r i c h b r o t h o r wine-based sauce. Just like pasta e fagioli, it is a classic example of Italian cucina p o v e r a , b e c a u s e u s u a l l y inexpensive cuts of meat are used for it. Spezzatino has been a traditional Sunday meal in many Italian house- holds, where it is often pre- pared in large quantities to ensure there are leftovers for the following days. The dish improves with time because t h e c o l l a g e n i n t h e m e a t breaks down during cook- ing, creating a gelatin-rich s a u c e t h a t t h i c k e n s a n d i n t e n s i f i e s i n f l a v o r a s i t cools and reheats. The result is a stew that is even more flavorful and comforting the next day. Though not a savory dish, tiramisù also benefits from being made in advance. This iconic Italian dessert, made with layers of coffee-soaked ladyfingers and mascarpone c r e a m , o r i g i n a t e d i n t h e Veneto region in the 1960s, although some claim it has o l d e r r o o t s . T h e n a m e "tiramisù" means "pick-me- up," and refers to the ener- gizing effects of its coffee and cocoa content. When tiramisù sits overnight, the c o f f e e f u l l y i n f u s e s t h e ladyfingers and the mascar- p o n e c r e a m s e t s , s o t h e dessert's texture becomes smoother and more unified, making it even more enjoy- able the next day. But, while these dishes improve in flavor after a day o r t w o , p r o p e r s t o r a g e i s e s s e n t i a l t o e n s u r e t h e y remain safe to eat. Di Fla- viano advises cooling cooked dishes quickly and storing t h e m i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r within two hours of cooking. Most of these dishes can be safely stored for up to three days in the fridge with freez- i n g b e i n g a n o p t i o n f o r longer storage. Be careful t h o u g h , b e c a u s e n o t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s f r e e z e w e l l , including many cooked veg- etables, which can lose their texture when frozen. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Magic or science? Here's why some of Italy's most popular dishes are better the next day Even tiramisù is better a day after you make it (Photo: Ppy2020ha/Dreamstime) Pasta e fagioli (Photo: Edgar D Pons/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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