L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano C assoeula (pro- n o u n c e d c a s s - oy-la) — which i s e s p e c i a l l y p o p u l a r i n t h e region of Lombardia and i s o f t e n a s s o c i a t e d w i t h Milan — is a rustic, hearty dish of pork and cabbage, traditionally made when the first frost sweetens the cab- bage, marking the colder months and the end of the p i g - s l a u g h t e r i n g s e a s o n . This stew has a rich cultural history, deeply tied to the rhythms of rural life, where every part of the pig found a use, including the less com- mon cuts that still define cassoeula today. Origins and etymolo- gy of the name The name cassoeula like- ly comes from the Lombard w o r d c a s s u , m e a n i n g "ladle," which was used for stirring and serving it; inter- estingly, both the name and the dish seem to share simi- larities with another tradi- tional rustic stew coming from France, cassoulet, typi- cal of the Occitan region and made with meat and beans. Though cassoeula lacks the beans of cassoulet, the two dishes share a similar spirit of making the most of what's available in colder months. In the past, as we men- tioned, cassoeula was pre- pared in late fall or early winter, a time that coincided with the pig-slaughtering season in rural communi- ties. Pigs, valued for their versatility, provided meat, f a t , a n d e v e n b o n e s t h a t could be used throughout the winter months for food; in the case of cassoeula, the focus was on using less pop- ular cuts like the pig's trot- ters, ribs, skin (cotenne), and head (musetto): tough and filled with connective tissue they were, but long, slow cooking would trans- form them into tender, suc- culent pieces. Slow-cook- ing was also economical and practical, as it required min- imal ingredients while deliv- ering maximum flavor. The main ingredients The key ingredients in a t r a d i t i o n a l c a s s o e u l a a r e simple yet specific: muset- to (pig's snout), cotenne (skin), ribs, and verzini (special small sausages typi- cal to Lombardy) are crucial for an authentic cassoeula, with each cut contributes different textures and fla- vors, while verzini adds a s l i g h t s m o k i n e s s . T h e n , there is savoy cabbage: known for its resilience in the cold and its sweet flavor after the first frost, savoy cabbage softens beautifully in the stew, and balances well the richness of the pork. Aromatics are also very important: onion, carrot, and celery are sautéed at the start to build the stew's foundational flavors. As we all know, these ingredients form the soffritto, an essen- tial element in Italian cook- ing that adds depth and a hint of sweetness. A g o o d c a s s o e u l a wouldn't be right without a splash of red or white wine, depending on family tradi- tion: it is typically added to deglaze the pan and infuse the meat with an extra layer of flavor. The addition of tomato is more controver- sial: while some cooks add t o m a t o p a s t e o r p u r é e , purists often stick to a sim- ple broth, allowing the nat- ural flavors of the pork and cabbage to shine. Preparation and cook- ing techniques Despite the rustic nature of the dish, making a good c a s s o e u l a r e q u i r e s a methodical approach and a generous amount of time. F i r s t , t h e p o r k c u t s a r e boiled briefly to tenderizes t h e m e a t a n d r e m o v e s excess fat. Separately, a sof- fritto is prepared, sautéing onions, carrots, and celery until they are fragrant and l i g h t l y c a r a m e l i z e d . T h e pork is then added to this base, and wine is poured in, allowing the flavors to meld and deepen. O n c e t h e a l c o h o l h a s e v a p o r a t e d , t h e c a b b a g e , cleaned and cut into large s t r i p s , i s a d d e d . N o w , p a t i e n c e i s e s s e n t i a l : t h e stew is left to simmer for two to three hours, occa- s i o n a l l y a d d i n g l a d l e s o f broth to keep the stew from d r y i n g o u t . S l o w c o o k i n g allows the flavors to develop f u l l y , r e s u l t i n g i n a r i c h , deeply satisfying dish where the pork becomes tender, the cabbage soft and flavor- ful, and the broth thick and savory. A dish for cold days Cassoeula is considered an ideal winter dish: the hearty pork and the nutri- ent-dense cabbage provide w a r m t h a n d s u s t e n a n c e , essential for enduring Lom- bardy's chilly winters. His- t o r i c a l l y , i t w a s m a d e o n special occasions or Sun- d a y s , b r i n g i n g f a m i l i e s together around a commu- nal table. Today, it remains a s y m b o l o f c o m f o r t a n d n o s t a l g i a , p a r t i c u l a r l y a m o n g o l d e r g e n e r a t i o n s who recall it as a family sta- ple during colder months. And don't forget that a traditional cassoeula calls for a wine pairing that can stand up to its complex fla- vors. Red wines from Lom- bardy's neighboring regions, such as Barbera or Bonar- d a f r o m O l t r e p ò P a v e s e , offer just the right balance of acidity to cut through the fattiness of the pork. C a s s o e u l a b e t w e e n modernity and tradition While cassoeula has deep roots in rural Lombardy, it f o u n d r e n e w e d i n t e r e s t a m o n g u r b a n c o o k s a n d food enthusiasts. In recent y e a r s , m a n y c h e f s h a v e embraced it as part of Italy's culinary heritage, bringing it back to restaurant menus and even adapting it with creative twists: some use leaner cuts or experiment with additional vegetables, while others play with pre- s e n t a t i o n , s e r v i n g i t i n smaller, refined portions. H o w e v e r , t r a d i t i o n a l i s t s maintain that the authentic r e c i p e i s t h e b e s t w a y t o experience it, as it preserves the original flavors and tex- ture that make this dish so iconic. LUCA SIGNORINI A bowl of traditional cassoeula, a typical Lombard winter dish (Photo: OlgaBombologna/Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Cassoeula: a rustic pork and cabbage stew to keep you warm this winter

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