L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano P o l e n t a i s o f t e n associated with rustic simplicity, but what many may not know is that it has a history spanning millennia and continents. Its roots are deeply connected with the evolution of human f o o d c u l t u r e , m a k i n g i t a symbol of survival, adapta- tion, and, in Italy, also of tra- dition. P o l e n t a i s a m o n g t h e earliest cooked dishes known to humanity, and was born as a simple porridge made from coarse grains boiled in water. In ancient Mesopotamia, the Sumerians prepared early forms of it using millet and rye, while in Greece, barley flour was used to create a c o m p a r a b l e d i s h . A c r o s s Africa and Asia, countless variations emerged, each shaped by locally available grains and culinary tradi- tions. What unifies these early examples of the dish is their simplicity: a combina- t i o n o f g r a i n a n d w a t e r , cooked to create a nourish- ing, filling meal. T h e n a m e " p o l e n t a " derives from the Latin word puls, a term used in ancient Rome to describe a similar type of food: in fact, during the Roman Republic, puls was so central to the diet that it earned the Romans the n i c k n a m e p u l t i f e r i , o r " p o l e n t a e a t e r s . " U n l i k e modern polenta, which is made from cornmeal, Roman puls was made from ground farro cooked in water and salt, and often served with a c c o m p a n i m e n t s s u c h a s chickpeas, salted fish, fruits, cheeses, cooked vegetables, and occasionally meat. The dish was emblematic of fru- gality and sustenance, as f o n d l y r e m e m b e r e d b y S e n e c a , w h o , i n 7 5 A D , lamented the loss of moral virtue among his contempo- r a r i e s a n d n o s t a l g i c a l l y referred to the days when R o m a n s s u s t a i n e d t h e m - selves on simple puls rather than bread. The evolution of polen- ta: the arrival of corn T h e p o l e n t a w e k n o w today owes its distinct yellow hue and texture to the intro- d u c t i o n o f c o r n ( m a i z e ) fr om the Amer icas in the 16th century. Corn quickly b e c a m e a s t a p l e c r o p i n Europe due to its adaptabili- ty, high yields, and nutrition- al value. In Italy, it trans- f o r m e d t h e c u l i n a r y landscape, becoming the pri- mary ingredient for polenta, particularly in the northern regions. Corn cultivation spread rapidly across Europe, Africa, the Middle East, and parts of Asia, fueled by its versatility and the relatively low cost of production. Today, it is one of the most widely grown crops globally, used in count- less food products, including s w e e t e n e r s l i k e f r u c t o s e . Modern polenta is typically made from three main types of cornmeal: bramata (a coarse, rustic grind ideal for traditional polenta), fioretto (a finer grind used for lighter d i s h e s o r b a k i n g ) , a n d fumetto (an ultra-fine grind favored in gourmet applica- t i o n s ) . I n n o r t h e r n I t a l y , white polenta made from a prized variety of corn is par- ticularly popular for its deli- cate flavor, which pairs beau- t i f u l l y w i t h s e a f o o d a n d refined sauces. Regional variations Polenta's adaptability is evident in its myriad regional variations, with each area bringing its own ingredients, t r a d i t i o n s , a n d c u l t u r a l accents to the dish. In Lom- b a r d y ' s V a l t e l l i n a v a l l e y , polenta taragna combines cornmeal with buckwheat flour and is enriched with l o c a l c h e e s e s a n d b u t t e r , while Veneto is famous for its white polenta, often served with cuttlefish, either in their natural sauce or tinted black with ink. In Trentino-Alto Adige, potatoes are some- times added, along with local salami, onions, and cheeses. In the Aosta Valley, polenta concia, or "fat polenta," is made with an indulgent mix of melted Fontina cheese and butter. In contrast, Trieste offers polenta paired with sausages, scrambled eggs, stews, or even prunes. Cen- tral Italy, including Tuscany and Lazio, prepares polenta more fluidly, often spreading it onto a large wooden board called a spianatora and serv- ing it family-style with toma- to-based sauces, pork, or sausage. In Sardinia, where it was once known as pulenta or farru, polenta has roots dating back to the Nuragic civilization (circa 3000 BC), and was later incorporated i n t o R o m a n a g r i c u l t u r a l practices. E v e n w i t h i n s p e c i f i c regions, unique traditions emerge. In Romagna, the town of Tossignano offers a particularly rich version of polenta during its annual fes- tival, a tradition that began in 1 6 2 2 d u r i n g a p e r i o d o f famine and pestilence. The dish, made from a mix of yel- l o w c o r n m e a l a n d s e r v e d firm, is traditionally cut with a cotton thread and served with a meat ragù and grated Grana cheese. Cultural and social sig- nificance Polenta is a quintessential cucina povera dish, once ubiquitously consumed in times of scarcity. In Northern Italy, it was often referred to as "the bread of the poor" due to its affordability and ability to feed large families. The act of preparing polenta, often in a large copper pot (paiolo) over an open flame, was a communal activity, a moment of bonding within a family, or even a community. Preparing polenta T r a d i t i o n a l p o l e n t a i s made by gradually adding cornmeal to boiling salted water in a copper pot, stirring constantly with a wooden stick (known as a cannella) for about an hour. The result- ing mixture is poured onto a wooden board and served with various sauces and top- pings. Leftover polenta can be sliced and fried, baked w i t h c h e e s e , o r u s e d a s a bread substitute. M o d e r n a d a p t a t i o n s o f polenta show how versatile this dish can be; for instance, y o u c a n s e r v e i t c r e a m y , paired with mushroom ragù or melted gorgonzola, or you can allow it to set and then grill and cut it into squares for appetizers. A more mod- ern iteration, fried polenta sticks, offer a delightful alter- native to French fries. Sweet versions, such as polenta cake or cookies made from fine cornmeal — known in Piedmont as paste di meli- ga — highlight its adaptabili- ty also in desserts. Today, polenta is part of Italy-inspired menus in many restaurants around the globe, a comforting reminder of how simplicity can, indeed, become fancy. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Making polenta the old-fashioned way (Photo: Fedecandoniphoto/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Polenta: a dish as old as civilization

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