L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 6, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano F lour is one of the m o s t e s s e n t i a l i n g r e d i e n t s i n I t a l i a n c u i s i n e , connected as it is with the country's culinary traditions and history. From the ancient grains cultivated in Roman times to the finely milled flours used today for pasta, bread, and desserts, each type of f l o u r tells a story of regional diversity and craftsmanship. While wheat flours domi- nate, Italy also has a rich tra- dition of using corn, chest- nut, and other alternative flours that mirror the coun- try's varied landscapes and local agricultural practices. Getting to know each type of Italian flours, their origins, and their uses is important if you want to really appreciate I t a l i a n c u i s i n e a n d , o f course, if you want to cook Italian at home. L e t u s b e g i n w i t h t h e basics and with some histo- ry. Flour has been a corner- stone of the Mediterranean diet for thousands of years, forming the base of bread, p a s t a , a n d o t h e r s t a p l e foods; in fact, the concept of the Mediterranean triad — wheat, olive oil, and wine — has long defined the diets of civilizations in this region, and the cultivation and milling of wheat into flour were central to the suc- cess of ancient societies, par- t i c u l a r l y t h e R o m a n s . I t w a s t h e y w h o i n t r o d u c e d advanced milling techniques and promoted wheat farming a c r o s s t h e i r v a s t e m p i r e . Over time, different types of wheat flour emerged, tai- lored to specific uses and culinary traditions. In Italy, the classification of flour is based not only on the type of wheat used but a l s o o n h o w f i n e l y i t i s m i l l e d . S o f t w h e a t and durum wheat are the two main varieties, each giving different textures and flavors in cooking: soft wheat pro- duces finer, more delicate flours that are ideal for pas- tries and cakes, while durum w h e a t y i e l d s c o a r s e r , stronger flours, perfect for making pasta and certain breads. So, how is Italian flour categorized, and how do we know which one to use for e a c h r e c i p e ? A l l o w m e explain: there are different categories, each defined by their degree of refinement, which determines texture, flavor, and nutritional value. The most commonly used types are Type 00, Type 0, Type 1, Type 2, and whole wheat (integrale). T y p e 0 0 , a l s o k n o w n as doppio zero, is the finest a n d m o s t r e f i n e d I t a l i a n flour; it has a silky texture and contains very little bran or germ, making it ideal for fresh pasta, cakes, and pas- tries. Its soft, powdery con- sistency allows for smooth, elastic doughs that are easy t o w o r k w i t h . T y p e 0 i s s l i g h t l y l e s s r e f i n e d a n d r e t a i n s a b i t m o r e o f t h e wheat's natural elements, making it a good choice for b r e a d a n d s o m e t y p e s o f pizza dough. Type 1 and Type 2 flours are less refined than Type 0 0 a n d T y p e 0 , a n d t h e y c o n t a i n m o r e b r a n a n d g e r m , w h i c h r e s u l t s i n a darker color and richer fla- vor. Type 1 and 2 are often used in rustic breads and traditional baked goods that need a stronger wheat taste. L a s t b u t n o t l e a s t , w e h a v e w h o l e w h e a t , o r i n t e g r a l e , t h e l e a s t processed flour, which con- tains all parts of the grain. It is the most nutritious option a n d i s c o m m o n l y u s e d i n hearty, fiber-rich breads. If you are interested in doing some Italian baking Stateside, you can largely follow this rule of thumb when you choose your flour, even though some differ- ences may exist from one producer to the other: type 00 is typically compared to American cake flour due to its fine texture, but it has a h i g h e r p r o t e i n c o n t e n t , which makes it versatile for both soft and chewy prepa- rations. Type 0 is closest to American all-purpose flour, w h i l e T y p e 1 a n d T y p e 2 resemble bread flour. Whole wheat flour in the US is the equivalent of Italian inte- grale. T i m e t o m o v e , n o w , t o other types of grains and to the flours they produce. You a r e l i k e l y f a m i l i a r w i t h durum wheat, or grano duro, a staple in Italian cui- sine, because it is used for pasta making. Durum wheat flour has a higher protein content than soft wheat's, giving pasta the firm, elastic texture that allows it to hold its shape and retain its sig- n a t u r e a l d e n t e b i t e . T h e most common flour made from durum wheat is coarse- l y g r o u n d , g o l d e n - h u e d semolina, used in tradi- t i o n a l p a s t a p r o d u c t i o n . S e m o l i n a i s p a r t i c u l a r l y important for dried pasta like spaghetti, penne, and rigatoni, as it provides the n e c e s s a r y s t r u c t u r e a n d firmness to it. A finer ver- s i o n , k n o w n a s s e m o l a rimacinata, is double-milled to create a softer texture, making it suitable for fresh p a s t a a n d s o m e t y p e s o f b r e a d , p a r t i c u l a r l y t h o s e from southern Italy. A l t h o u g h w h e a t i s t h e dominant grain in Italian flour production, it isn't the only cereal — or legume, for that matter — to have played a role in regional cuisines. Corn flour, or farina di mais, is a staple in northern Italy, where it is primarily used to make polenta, tra- d i t i o n a l a n d b e l o v e d i n r e g i o n s l i k e L o m b a r d y , V e n e t o , a n d P i e d m o n t . Here, polenta has historical- ly offered a versatile and fill- ing alternative to bread and pasta for centuries. Flour can also be made with... fruit! Just like corn flour, chestnut flour, or farina di castagne, is asso- ciated with rural and moun- tainous areas, especially in Tuscany, Liguria, and Emil- ia-Romagna. When wheat was scarce, chestnut flour provided a naturally sweet, nutrient-rich alternative that could be used for baking. And we couldn't mention, in an article about flours, chickpea flour, or farina di ceci. It is commonly used in Liguria and Tuscany to m a k e f a r i n a t a , a s a v o r y , t h i n p a n c a k e b a k e d i n a wood-fired oven, which is a popular street foods, espe- c i a l l y a l o n g t h e L i g u r i a n Coast. Chickpea flour is also u s e d i n S i c i l i a n p a n e l l e , crispy fritters often eaten in sandwiches. We should also mention Italy's ancient grains, like farro, which are making a comeback for their flavor and nutritional value. Farro was cultivated already by the Romans, and today its flour is used to make pastas, cakes and breads. Grano arso — a n o t h e r g r a n o a n t i c o — flour is typical of Puglia, a n d i t i s k n o w n f o r t h e s m o k e y t a s t e i t l e n d s t o breads made with it. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Many varieties of flour, on a supermarket shelf (Image created with DALL-E 2) A traditional guide to Italy's flours LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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