L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano I n c l u s i v i t y i s a n e s s e n t i a l i d e a i n today's world, but we h a r d l y a s s o c i a t e i t with food. However, r e s p e c t i n g d i v e r s i t y a n d making sure, quite literally, that everyone has a "seat at t h e t a b l e , " r e g a r d l e s s o f background or ability, has become an inherently cen- tral goal of modern cuisine. An inclusive kitchen recog- nizes and values different food cultures, makes cooking a c c e s s i b l e , a n d f o s t e r s a sense of belonging, matching the foundational objectives of inclusion at large. Another idea, that of sustainability, is perhaps more easily iden- tified as part of contempo- rary food culture: cutting d o w n o n w a s t e , c h o o s i n g seasonal and local ingredi- ents, and adopting energy- efficient methods are great for the environment, but also help create food systems that are more fair and accessible. We know well that Italy is a place where food is often synonymous with tradition, and an important marker of i d e n t i t y . I n o t h e r w o r d s , Italians take their food very seriously. That's why it shouldn't surprise us that the intersection of inclusivity a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y i n t h e k i t c h e n i s g a i n i n g m o r e attention, with examples of i n c l u s i v e a n d s u s t a i n a b l e food initiatives developing from North to South. La Cucina Italiana, one of the country's most authoritative culinary voices, has been actively exploring this movement, and has now dedicated a whole section of its website to it. Aptly named Inclusività in Cucina, it highlights key initiatives that bring together social inclu- sion and the art of cooking. Each of the stories presented is worth being told, so we suggest you visit the website (https://www.lacucinaital- iana.it/topic/inclusivita-in- c u c i n a / ) , i f y o u r I t a l i a n allows it; otherwise, you can still get an idea of what the m o v e m e n t i s a l l a b o u t through our short overview. A prime example of the "inclusion in the kitchen" philosophy in action is Il Tortellante, an initiative launched in 2016 in Mode- na: it is a workshop bringing together young individuals on the autism spectrum and elderly volunteers to create t r a d i t i o n a l t o r t e l l i n i b y hand. Far more than a sim- ple pasta-making project, Il Tortellante is a space where intergenerational bonds are formed, skills are developed, and a true sense of commu- nity is built. Its impact has been, in fact, so significant that some of its participants even had the opportunity to s h o w t h e i r w o r k a t t h e United Nations. Similarly, Lombardia's PizzAut has been training and employing individuals w i t h a u t i s m i n t h e a r t o f p i z z a - m a k i n g . T h r o u g h a combination of structured work environments and spe- cialized training, PizzAut allows autistic individuals to participate in an industry that has long been inaccessi- b l e t o t h e m . J u s t l i k e I l T o r t e l l a n t e , P i z z A u t a l s o received international recog- nition during the 2024 G7 on Inclusion and Disabili- ty. In Bari, the Mo' Pasta project is proving that inclu- sive employment and culi- nary tradition can go hand in hand: this pasta work- shop employs individuals with motor and cognitive disabilities, offering them a p a t h w a y t o m e a n i n g f u l employment while preserv- ing the artistry of traditional Italian pasta-making. B u t i n c l u s i v i t y i n t h e kitchen also means social inclusion. Rome's Osteria S a u l i , f o r i n s t a n c e , h a s made social empowerment its mission: located in the historic Garbatella district, t h e r e s t a u r a n t p r o v i d e s training and employment o p p o r t u n i t i e s f o r w o m e n who have experienced gen- der-based violence. By part- nering with organizations like Lucha y Siesta, Osteria Sauli offers its staff a job a n d , p e r h a p s e v e n m o r e importantly, a solid path to independence and dignity. Another interesting initia- tive comes from Modena, where Chef Jessica Ros- v a l ' s p r o j e c t , R o o t s , e m p o w e r s i m m i g r a n t women by integrating them i n t o t h e c u l i n a r y w o r k - force.The project provides employment opportunities while also celebrating the d i v e r s e c u l t u r a l b a c k - grounds these women bring to the table. In truth, Italy's approach to inclusive gastronomy is p a r t o f a b r o a d e r g l o b a l movement, where culinary institutions are recognizing the importance of diversity a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y . T h e C u l i n a r y I n s t i t u t e o f America (CIA), for exam- ple, has begun diversifying its curriculum, incorporat- ing courses on African culi- nary influence and expand- ing sustainability efforts. C e n t r a l t o t h i s s p e c i f i c e n d e a v o r h a v e b e e n C h e f Roshara Sanders and Rupa B h a t t a c h a r y a , w h o h a v e played key roles in ensuring food education is both cul- turally relevant and environ- mentally responsible. Far from being limited to the academic side of things, this shift extends to restau- rant kitchens, too: globally, chefs are integrating sus- tainability into their menus, not just to meet environ- mental goals but to make food systems more accessi- ble and ethical. In Califor- n i a , f o r i n s t a n c e , D o m i n i q u e C r e n n h a s pioneered sustainable farm- ing at Bleu Belle Farm, cut- ting back on animal prod- u c t s w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g h i g h - e n d g a s t r o n o m y . Always in the US, Dan Bar- ber's Row 7 seed company is developing new, more fla- v o r f u l p r o d u c e , b a s e d o n r e g e n e r a t i v e a g r i c u l t u r e ; technological advancements are also reshaping how we approach food sustainabili- t y , w i t h A I o p t i m i z i n g r e s t a u r a n t s u p p l y c h a i n s a n d s a t e l l i t e i m a g e r y improving farming efficien- cy. It is, all in all, a very posi- tive moment for food inclu- sivity and sustainability. Yet, challenges remain, particu- larly in communicating sus- tainability without alienat- ing diners. Many restaurants s t r u g g l e t o b a l a n c e t h e i r e n v i r o n m e n t a l c o m m i t - ments with affordability and c u s t o m e r e x p e c t a t i o n s . Some, like PLNT Burger, a p l a n t - b a s e d b u r g e r b a r chain available throughout the US, use technology to show diners the ecological benefits of plant-based eat- ing without making sustain- ability the central marketing m e s s a g e . O t h e r s , l i k e Yang's Kitchen (Alham- bra, California) and Crave Fishbar (two locations in New York City), incorporate s u s t a i n a b l e p r a c t i c e s b u t a v o i d o v e r w h e l m i n g c u s - tomers with too much infor- mation. These approaches show how striking the right balance is the real key for s u c c e s s : s u s t a i n a b i l i t y should be part of the dining experience, but it should feel n a t u r a l r a t h e r t h a n imposed. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Food is more than nutrition and culture, it can also be a way to make society more diverse and equitable (Photo: Nomadsoul1/Dreamstime) A more inclusive table: the importance of diversity and sustainability in the kitchen LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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