L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano A mong the many r e g i o n a l d e s s e r t s t h a t dot Italy's culi- n a r y m a p , semolini dolci from Pied- m o n t a n d c r e m a f r i t t a from Abruzzo are two exam- ples of how texture, tradi- tion, and indulgence come t o g e t h e r i n f r i e d f o r m . Though they come from dif- ferent corners of the coun- try, these two sweets share b o t h t h e i r p r e p a r a t i o n method and their cultural r o l e a s r i c h , c e l e b r a t o r y treats tied to childhood, fam- ily, and the kind of cooking that leaves a lasting impres- sion. They are not everyday dishes, nor are they particu- larly rustic or frugal: they are complex enough to require t i m e a n d a t t e n t i o n , a n d decadent enough to feel like a reward. Semolini dolci, some- times simply called semoli- no fritto, has its roots in northern Italian cuisine, par- ticularly in Piedmont, and it evolved from the regional love of semolina and dairy. In the 19th century, Pied- m o n t e s e a r i s t o c r a c y a n d upper-middle-class house- h o l d s e m b r a c e d F r e n c h - i n f l u e n c e d c o o k i n g b u t retained strong ties to local ingredients – semolina being one of them. In this dessert, semolina is cooked slowly in milk with sugar, lemon zest, and sometimes a knob of butter, until it becomes thick and creamy. Once cooled, it firms into a dense mass that can be sliced, breaded in egg and breadcrumbs, and fried until golden. Far from being an after- thought or a peasant treat, semolini dolci were histori- cally part of fritto misto a l l a p i e m o n t e s e , a b a r o q u e a n d e l a b o r a t e course featuring a wide array of both sweet and savoury bites, all deep-fried: along- side veal chops and sweet- breads, one could find apple r i n g s , a m a r e t t i - s t u f f e d peaches, and these golden wedges of semolina. In its full form, fritto misto was a statement of culinary abun- dance, typical of feast days and important banquets. It still remains a rare dish, that only a handful of restaurants in Piedmont make, and only on order. While semolini dolci are today more commonly made on their own, especially at home, they retain this sense of richness: the creamy inte- rior and crispy outer layer offer a contrast that makes them popular with both chil- dren and adults, and they are still often served during holi- d a y s s u c h a s C a r n i v a l , Christmas and Easter. Hundreds of miles away, crema fritta fills a similar role in central Italy, especial- ly in Abruzzo, the Marche, a n d p a r t s o f E m i l i a - Romagna. Its origins are l e s s f o r m a l t h a n t h o s e o f semolini dolci, but its prepa- ration is no less demanding. A rich custard is made by cooking egg yolks with milk, sugar, flour, and lemon peel until thickened. Once set in a shallow tray and cooled, the custard is cut into rectangles o r d i a m o n d s , d i p p e d i n flour, egg, and breadcrumbs, a n d d e e p - f r i e d . W h a t e m e r g e s f r o m t h e o i l i s a soft-centered, crisp-edged dessert that feels both deca- d e n t a n d f a m i l i a r a t t h e same time: just like semolini dolci, most people today has memories of their grand- mothers making crema frit- ta when they were little. Just like its Piedmontese cousins, crema fritta often appears as part of festive menus, especially in Abruzzo w h e r e i t i s s o m e t i m e s included in the fritto misto all'ascolana –n ot just a Marche tradition, despite the n a m e – a l o n g s i d e f r i e d olives, zucchini, and arti- chokes. In many families, crema fritta is made for spe- cial occasions like weddings, baptisms, or saint's days. It is not associated with frugal- i t y b u t w i t h g e n e r o s i t y , embodied by trays of custard b i t e s d u s t e d w i t h s u g a r , shared among relatives and neighbors. Some versions include a touch of liqueur or vanilla, but the dominant n o t e i s a l w a y s t h e b r i g h t aroma of lemon peel, which cuts through the richness of the custard and the frying. What makes both these desserts particularly appeal- ing is their layered texture and their ability to evoke powerful sensory memories: for many, biting into a piece of fried semolina or custard i n s t a n t l y b r i n g s b a c k moments spent in childhood kitchens, not because they w e r e e v e r y d a y f a r e , b u t because they were the kind of treat that signaled some- thing joyful. A grandmother might make them for a birth- day, or an aunt might bring a tray for Christmas Eve din- ner. These were the desserts of occasions, not rare, but not routine either. Over the decades, their p r e s e n c e h a s f a d e d f r o m restaurant menus, especially outside of their regions of origin. They are not widely c o m m e r c i a l i z e d a n d a r e u n l i k e l y t o b e f o u n d i n tourist-focused patisseries. Yet they persist in domestic settings and in regional cele- brations, often made accord- i n g t o i n h e r i t e d f a m i l y recipes. Their survival is a s y m b o l o f t h e e m o t i o n a l weight they carry – and to the satisfaction they deliver when we eat them!" Today, both semolini dolci and crema fritta are experi- encing something of a quiet revival; as interest grows in regional specialties and tra- ditional cooking, these fried desserts are being rediscov- e r e d b y h o m e c o o k s a n d chefs. They offer something unique in the Italian dessert c a n o n : a b r e a k f r o m t h e usual pastries and gelati, with a focus on warmth, tex- ture, and richness. They are also incredibly adaptable, as they can be ser ved pl ain, dusted with powdered sugar, paired with fruit preserves, or even plated alongside a glass of sweet wine. Despite their similarities, the two sweets remain dis- t i n c t i v e . S e m o l i n a h a s a firmer bite, a subtle grainy texture that resists the teeth, while custard melts almost instantly in the mouth. The Piedmontese version speaks to a culture of composed ele- gance, linked to historical dishes designed for multi- course meals. The Abruzzese version, by contrast, feels more earthy and immediate, a gesture of hospitality and comfort at the family table. What unites them is their ability to make people pause and remember. They remind us that dessert, despite what some contemporary trends want us to believe, doesn't always need to be light or m i n i m a l . S o m e t i m e s , i t ' s m e a n t t o b e g o l d e n a n d f r i e d , s e r v e d w a r m , a n d eaten without apology. FRANCESCA BEZZONE Fried desserts are quite common in Italy (Photo: Jacek Sopotnicki/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Semolini dolci and crema fritta: the sweet side of regional Italy

• Cover