L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 26, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano I n the world of wine, w h e r e t r e n d s o f t e n overshadow tradition, S o m m e l i e r a n d Wine Expert Paul Robinson stands out. As the mind behind Bottivino, a name blending two Italian t e r m s a n d t r a n s l a t i n g t o "wine cask" he, more than simply selling wine, curates e x p e r i e n c e s f i l l e d w i t h authentic Italian heritage. W e s a t d o w n w i t h M r Robinson in San Francisco to talk about the story of how his connection to Italy and wine- making traditions led him to c h a m p i o n t h e w i n e s t h a t embody la dolce vita in every s i p . O u r c o n v e r s a t i o n revealed a journey focused on connecting enthusiasts with s m a l l , f a m i l y - r u n I t a l i a n wineries whose wines express the magic of a product aged t h e o l d - f a s h i o n e d w a y , i n wooden casks. The Italian wine "bug" bit M r . R o b i n s o n e a r l y o n , p r o m p t i n g n e a r l y a n n u a l returns to Italy. "It's a place that I love and I gravitate towards," he explains. He recalls a trip to Sardinia's Gal- lura region with his photo- journalist brother, where a simple photograph of his first taste of Vermentino continues to inspire his work. It was upon returning from that trip home that Paul's journey to becoming a sommelier truly began. "I was still leading big Gala events in New York City, and I realized I was talking about wine more and more," he recounts. He remembers a particular pre-service meeting where an account executive pulled him aside and pointed "Paul, you shouldn't spend all this time talking about wine, maybe we should talk about t h e e v e n t i n s t e a d . " T h i s moment of gentle redirection somehow solidified his pas- sion. The path forward had become crystal clear for Mr. Robinson: the world of wine called to him. He'd always excelled in structured envi- ronments, and now he want- ed to be part of educational programs to immerse himself in wine. "The more I took t h o s e c l a s s e s , t h e m o r e I learned and worked towards it," he shares. "I enjoyed the rigorous nature of the role, which demands deep knowl- edge combined with warmth, hospitality, precise service, and strong communication skills. And then there's the ability to truly connect with what is a highly subjective e x p e r i e n c e o f a g l a s s . A restaurant sommelier is dif- ferent from a retail shop; when you talk about wine, your description has to be spot-on." According to Mr. Robin- son, a sommelier's expertise extends beyond just the wine itself; it's crucial to know the perfect food pairings and e v e r y f a c e t o f t h e o v e r a l l experience. "Although I left the restaurant world, it's s o m e t h i n g I s t i l l p u r s u e through my own business," he explains. He embarked on this new chapter seeking to combine his passion with wine education. He founded Bottivino on the belief that, by understanding the culture, people, geography, climate, and cuisine, one can unlock a rich and lasting experience in e v e r y g l a s s . B o t t i v i n o , i n other words, wants to devel- op an educational experience that can show a wine's sense of place. Mr. Robinson named his b r a n d i n h o m a g e t o t h e grand wooden vessels (botti) that winemakers worldwide use to refine their wines. His profound connection to these barrels deepened in 2016: "I was in Italy when I met a family that has been making barrels for seven genera- tions," he tells us. "I got close to the owner of Botti Gamba, whose family handed down t h e o l d a r t o f t h e m a s t e r cooper from father to son. They invited me to live with them for a month. We trav- eled together to see where they source materials. That's when I encountered my first botte, which is meant to age wines like Barolo or Brunello. I had an emotional, religious experience standing in front of these wooden pieces; they proved to me that wine is all about integration and time, that idea of raising some- thing from its youth to its more experienced self." When it comes to Bottivi- no's business philosophy, Mr. Robinson emphasizes sourcing wines exclusively f r o m s m a l l , f a m i l y - r u n wineries that uphold stan- dards in both the vineyard and winery. "Small producers have limited resources and time, sometimes working with their neighbors to have a product that really speaks of their surroundings." He highlights that his chosen producers prioritize con- sumer health and strive to remain independent of com- mercial market pressures to create an unvarnished prod- uct. "Often, these families are working with recipes passed down through generations," he continues. "They are per- fecting as they go and they are willing to go the extra mile to make you understand why they do this and the rea- sons behind it," he notes. "All of that is a doorway to under- s t a n d i n g , n o t j u s t t o t h e wine, but also the place, the c u l t u r e , t h e p e o p l e . T h i s develops a deeper apprecia- tion for the wine's origins." W h e n i t c o m e s t o t h e shop's curation process, the selection is at the core of the w i n e e x p e r i e n c e f o r M r . Robinson. "I always taste everything that comes into my shop; I usually start with the experience in the glass," he states. He emphasizes maintaining his anonymity as a sommelier to ensure he doesn't work with just one specific importer or produc- er. "Wine is an agricultural product, which means it is subject to different influ- ences, such as what happens during that year, weather and climate, so no two wines are the same, no two vintages are the same," he shares. This u n d e r s t a n d i n g d r i v e s h i s approach: "All my wines are based on seasonality. I'll buy a case or two of wine; when those cases are finished, I look for something new. This ensures a constantly evolving and fresh selection, reflecting the dynamic nature of wine production," he concludes. I f s o m e o n e i s e a g e r t o begin their wine journey, whether for simple knowl- edge, to drink better wine, or to confidently make their own selections, Mr. Robinson offers clear advice: "Be curi- ous and taste all you can." He suggests everyone to find "a wine professional who is fun and loves what they do." He notes that his own students are drawn not only to the sensory experience in the glass but also to the engaging conversations and personal stories that unfold. "That's what wine is about, it's about s h a r i n g , " h e b e l i e v e s . Through these tasting experi- ences, participants learn his- tory, geography, soils, cli- mate, and cuisine. Bottivino runs classes one or twice a month, with public programs in venues across the Bay Area complemented by private classes in people's homes and businesses. C l a s s e s a r e h e l d i n " u n c o n v e n t i o n a l s p a c e s , always around a large table so everyone can get around," reflecting his own learning j o u r n e y , w h i c h " w a s n ' t indeed in a classroom." He always aims to provide an immersive experience: "The c l a s s u n f o l d s a r o u n d t h e t a b l e , w i t h l i k e - m i n d e d palates and people interested in digging into the particu- lars. This is why I will always hand attendees paper maps a n d b o o k l e t s r a t h e r t h a n delivering a big presenta- tion." SERENA PERFETTO Beyond the bottle: sommelier Paul Robinson's journey into the soul of Italian wine Paul Robinson at Botti Gamba in Castel Alfero (Photo: Thos Robinson) SAN FRANCISCO ITALIAN COMMUNITY

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