L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano L erici is a small c o a s t a l t o w n i n t h e p r o v i n c e o f La Spezia, in the e a s t e r n p a r t o f Liguria. Known as one of the jewels of the so-called Gulf of Poets, it has attracted writers, artists, and travelers for centuries, all drawn to the beauty of its cliffs, its calm waters, and its particu- l a r b l e n d o f L i g u r i a n a n d Tuscan influence. Its histori- c a l s i g n i f i c a n c e , n a t u r a l beauty, and literary associa- tions make it a unique desti- nation on the Italian Riviera. Lerici's origins go back to E t r u s c a n a n d R o m a n times, but it grew in impor- t a n c e d u r i n g t h e M i d d l e Ages as a maritime and com- mercial center contested by p o w e r f u l r e g i o n a l f o r c e s , including Pisa and Genoa. Its position on the gulf made i t v a l u a b l e a s a d e f e n s i v e s t r o n g h o l d ; t h e i m p o s i n g castle that dominates the town was originally built in t h e 1 2 t h c e n t u r y b y t h e Pisans, and later expanded by the Genoese. Today, the C a s t e l l o d i L e r i c i , perched above the town with sweeping views of the Liguri- an Sea, stands as a reminder of those turbulent times. It n o w h o u s e s a m u s e u m o f paleontology and often hosts cultural events and exhibi- tions. But people love Lerici not only for its heritage but also for the atmosphere of a town that truly retains a sense of place and managed to avoid overdevelopment. Much of its charm lies in its pedestri- an center, its fishing harbor, and the way it seems to be living at a slower rhythm of life: the promenade along the water offers a pleasant walk from the castle to the n e i g h b o r i n g t o w n o f S a n Terenzo, passing beaches, cafés, and small inlets, while t h e t o w n ' s s m a l l p u b l i c beaches, like Venere Azzur- ra, are clean and well-kept. There are also several coves reachable by boat or foot, that offer quieter swimming spots with views of the cliffs and the sea. San Terenzo, technical- ly a frazione of Lerici, is just a short walk away and has a strong historical and literary connection. It was here, in t h e e a r l y 1 8 2 0 s , t h a t t h e English poet Percy Bysshe Shelley lived with his wife Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein. They stayed at Villa Magni, a white- washed building that still stands near the beach; it was also from this coastline that Shelley set off on the sailing t r i p t h a t l e d t o h i s d e a t h during a storm off the coast o f V i a r e g g i o . T h e a r e a ' s romantic, slightly melan- cholic beauty helped earn t h e e n t i r e g u l f t h e n a m e Gulf of Poets, a tribute to the many writers and artists, including Byron and D.H. L a w r e n c e , w h o f o u n d inspiration in its waters and landscapes. A s i d e f r o m i t s c u l t u r a l and historical attractions, Lerici is a base for boat trips around the gulf and to the nearby Cinque Terre, though it retains a quieter character than its more famous neigh- bors. The sea remains cen- tral to local life, and this is reflected in the town's culi- nary tradition, which is typically Ligurian, with an emphasis on fresh seafood, olive oil, herbs, and simple preparations. Local special- ties include muscoli ripieni (stuffed mussels), acciughe al verde (anchovies in pars- ley and garlic), and trofie al pesto, often made with pota- toes and green beans. Wines from nearby hills, such as the white Vermentino, pair well with the region's fish- based dishes. Lerici also hosts cultural events throughout the year, including a poetry festival and traditional processions s u c h a s t h e M a d o n n a d i Maralunga in August, which f e a t u r e s a s e a p r o c e s s i o n with decorated fishing boats. A piece of trivia: Lerici has a long-standing connec- tion with science and marine biology, thanks to the nearby town of Tellaro, which is also part of the municipality a n d i s h o m e t o m a r i n e research facilities. Despite its modest size, Lerici offers a full experience for visitors interested in a mix of history, nature, litera- ture, and authentic local life. It is a place where the past is still visible in stones and streets, and where everyday l i f e c a r r i e s o n w i t h t h e r h y t h m o f f i s h i n g b o a t s , e v e n i n g s t r o l l s , a n d t h e scent of the sea. E a c h s u m m e r , a quiet but deter- m i n e d r i t u a l r e t u r n s a c r o s s Italian kitchens, f r o m N o r t h t o S o u t h : t h e making of conserve and marmellate. Far from being a nostalgic custom, this is a practical response to season- ality and abundance: if gar- dens, fruit trees, and markets overflow with ripe tomatoes, figs, cherries, peaches, and plums, we don't waste any- thing, no! We jump on the opportunity to preserve their flavor for the colder months. The term conserve gener- ally refers to preserved veg- etables and sauces, such as p a s s a t a d i p o m o d o r o (sieved tomato sauce), sugo (cooked sauce with herbs or vegetables), or estratto (a dense tomato paste typical of Sicily, often dried in the sun). These are often made in large batches by families, who may i n v e s t a n e n t i r e w e e k e n d blanching, pureeing, bottling, and boiling jars for long-term storage. Many households still use traditional glass bot- tles sealed with metal caps, which are sterilized in boiling water. O n t h e s w e e t e r s i d e , marmellate and confet- ture are used to preserve fruit. In Italy, marmellata o f f i c i a l l y r e f e r s t o c i t r u s - based preserves (like orange or lemon), while confettura is made from other fruits; sugar levels and consistency vary depending on the fruit, with s o m e f a m i l i e s p r e f e r r i n g loose, spoonable spreads and others opting for thicker tex- tures suitable for baking. Ster- i l i z e d g l a s s j a r s , v a c u u m - sealed, line kitchen shelves by the end of August. In recent years, interest in homemade preserves has grown again, partly for economic reasons and partly due to concerns about addi- tives in mass-produced foods. Books such as Domenica Marchetti 's Preserving Italy: Canning, Curing, I n f u s i n g , a n d B o t t l i n g Italian Flavors and Tradi- tions (2016) contributed to t h e t r e n d , o f f e r i n g c l e a r r e c i p e s a l o n g s i d e s a f e t y guidelines and regional con- text. Online forums and social media have also played a role, allowing people to share tech- niques and adaptations. While supermarkets carry a w i d e r a n g e o f j a m s a n d sauces, the summer preserv- ing season remains a fixture in many Italian homes, espe- cially in smaller towns and among older generations. The result is not only a pantry stocked with jars but a practi- cal approach to minimizing waste, maximizing flavor, and maintaining a connection to the rhythm of the seasons. Preserving summer vegetables for the winter months is an Italian tradition (Photo: Ermess/Dreamstime) Italy's canning season: where tradition meets ingenuity History, sea, and Shelley: discovering Lerici Lerici's main square (Photo: arkantostock/Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE TRADITIONS

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